That's absolutely true. I have a 150 on the 3.5" rim, and that went some ways to making it look better. I can't wait to have the 170 on the 4.5" wheel under it.
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'84 1150 rebuild
- Thread starter wyly
- Start date
the 1150EF had optional bigger wheels front and back, the back wheel would take a 150.
I attempted to get the larger wheels here on the forum but I could only get it in black not the gold wheels that my bike came with, nor was the larger front wheel available. If I come across a set locally I can save on the shipping costs, until then the smaller wheels will work.
click to enlargedone sort of.
two issues, 1st....for my road worthy inspection "everything" that the bike came with when it was new must be operational. Fuel gauge shows empty even when there is fuel in the tank. Does it do that when it reaches reserve or does measure fuel until true empty?
2nd issue, I was worried about this one when doing the top end rebuild but I didn't have the engine running to test the clutch operation. The clutch doesn't disengage/engage, I'm guessing plates are stuck together. I can shift it in gear but the clutch is playing no part in it, it's just a hard clutch-less clunk.
Adjusted the clutch top and bottom.
I tried letting it run in gear 1st and 2nd for a few minutes no change.
Other than opening it up are there any suggestions that may remedy the problem.
I'm not optimistic the bike hasn't run since probably 1990ish.
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Could the basket be toast?
I thought we discussed the fuel gauge earlier.... On mine it hits E then reserve starts. There is still at least a gallon in the tank at that point.
Your clutch issue sounds like what I had when I got mine. It had sat for 12 years and the plates were stuck together. My solution was maybe not the smartest, but it worked. I started it on the street, clutch in, and naturally it began rolling. With the clutch pulled, I whacked the throttle a few times and the plates came free. I did have to eventually replace them though because they slipped under heavy load.
Your clutch issue sounds like what I had when I got mine. It had sat for 12 years and the plates were stuck together. My solution was maybe not the smartest, but it worked. I started it on the street, clutch in, and naturally it began rolling. With the clutch pulled, I whacked the throttle a few times and the plates came free. I did have to eventually replace them though because they slipped under heavy load.
My fuel gauge is the same way: E = on reserve, 35 miles to find gas.
I thought I might have asked about the gas issue somewhere on the forum but I wasn't sure my memory is crap now-a-days...
I tried grabbing a fistful of throttle and nothing, repeated pulled the clutch in and letting go and nothing.
I looked in the window on the side had the wife pull in the clutch and didn't see any movement.
I'm going to open it and inspect the plates and clean and oil the plates if possible.
I opened the clutch and even after 25-30 years all looked good, all the plates appeared to be oiled .
When I pulled the metal and fiber plates and then I made a half-assed effort to keep them in order. I think there "may" have been two metal plates back to back but I wasn't methodical enough so I'm just not sure.
One metal plate showed any signs of slipping with a very minor discoloration.
I don't have a new gasket but I'll bolt it all together anyways and see if there is any movement when I pull in the clutch.
When I pulled the metal and fiber plates and then I made a half-assed effort to keep them in order. I think there "may" have been two metal plates back to back but I wasn't methodical enough so I'm just not sure.
One metal plate showed any signs of slipping with a very minor discoloration.
I don't have a new gasket but I'll bolt it all together anyways and see if there is any movement when I pull in the clutch.
tightening the clutch spring bolts and snapped one off, 
I got lucky and a tiny portion was exposed enough and I got small vice grips on it and turned it out.
manual instructs to torque to 9 lbs, I set wrench to 9lbs...or have read the manual wrong? I watched a youtube video and the guy just used a ratchet. Clearly my torque wrench is screwed up.
also I've read two sources for torque, 7ft and 9ft lbs
advice please
I got lucky and a tiny portion was exposed enough and I got small vice grips on it and turned it out. manual instructs to torque to 9 lbs, I set wrench to 9lbs...or have read the manual wrong? I watched a youtube video and the guy just used a ratchet. Clearly my torque wrench is screwed up.
also I've read two sources for torque, 7ft and 9ft lbs
advice please
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clutch reassembled, start it up...same problem clutch doesn't disengage the transmission, a huge clunk shifting into first transmission, pulling in the clutch handle has no effect wheel keeps turning, switch to 2nd same result.
it could be there is a deeper internal problem other than sticky plates or the problem lies in the cable and clutch arm adjustment. I'll move the shift arm and try again, if there any suggestions I'd like to see them...
it could be there is a deeper internal problem other than sticky plates or the problem lies in the cable and clutch arm adjustment. I'll move the shift arm and try again, if there any suggestions I'd like to see them...
Does it feel like a normal clutch pull? There is resistance, and the right amount of a couple mm of free play?clutch reassembled, start it up...same problem clutch doesn't disengage the transmission, a huge clunk shifting into first transmission, pulling in the clutch handle has no effect wheel keeps turning, switch to 2nd same result.
it could be there is a deeper internal problem other than sticky plates or the problem lies in the cable and clutch arm adjustment. I'll move the shift arm and try again, if there any suggestions I'd like to see them...
Grasping at straws now....did you have any movement in the basket when you re-assembled it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwUpwq_-dlA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwUpwq_-dlA
it does but I haven't ridden it or another like it in 25+ years, it feels like my cbx clutch.
checked free play both ends.
I've shortened the free play now to next to nothing and will give that a try but I've I may have loaded up on fuel and it doesn't to fire right now. I'll wait a half hour and try again.
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nope, rock solid. the brake stopping the rear wheel maybe a helpful clue.
G
Guest
Guest
sounds normal,
take it for a ride and get it warmed up, should be fine
take it for a ride and get it warmed up, should be fine
B
BurntKittyForge
Guest
My '93 GSX1100G clutch was causing gears to slip so bad one time, I thought I had major problem .
Whole way home from work , got next to my place and had to push it into parking even that day.
I cleaned the master cylinder reservoir,(return port) and then sprayed bunch of "Goof off" and "PB Blaster" into the opening under the clutch slave (onto the actuator rod(?),that general area) a bunch and it's been good since, PHEW!
I was reading up on clutch replacement and thinking "F$%^ next summer season, maybe".
I was sure at best just needed clutch replacement. My clutch master cylinder is still too small for bike not stock (again, yet). 99% certain that's reason for not ideal shifting occasionally.
Looks like you have cable clutch (?) But it still could have sticky grease on the actuator parts close to engine or some adjustment to the cable hopefully. I was checking (zoomable) diagram HERE ,BTW easy to find there.
Good Luck
Whole way home from work , got next to my place and had to push it into parking even that day.
I cleaned the master cylinder reservoir,(return port) and then sprayed bunch of "Goof off" and "PB Blaster" into the opening under the clutch slave (onto the actuator rod(?),that general area) a bunch and it's been good since, PHEW!
I was reading up on clutch replacement and thinking "F$%^ next summer season, maybe".
I was sure at best just needed clutch replacement. My clutch master cylinder is still too small for bike not stock (again, yet). 99% certain that's reason for not ideal shifting occasionally.
Looks like you have cable clutch (?) But it still could have sticky grease on the actuator parts close to engine or some adjustment to the cable hopefully. I was checking (zoomable) diagram HERE ,BTW easy to find there.
Good Luck
Are you sure that you re-installed the clutch actuator arm on the rack correctly? There is a trick to doing it.
Open the oil cap and check to see if the clutch is being uncompressed when you pull in the clutch lever.
Open the oil cap and check to see if the clutch is being uncompressed when you pull in the clutch lever.
yeah I did a practice assembly and final assembly looked through the filler hole and it's disengaging. I've readjusted my cable and see if that has an effect next. I'm encouraged that the wheel stops spinning when I step on the brake.
Maybe a change of oil viscosity might have an effect, switch to synthetic?
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adjusted clutch cable, no change.
a massive clunk when I kick into first. clutch has no moderation on engagement with transmission. I can stop it with brake pedal, engine slows slightly/near stall.
My cbx does something like this as well but I shift up and down while on the center stand until it loosens up, if I attempt to ride away before it's loose it'll lurch forward and stall. The Gs shows no improvement with shifting up and down.
Time to call Rapid Ray!
a massive clunk when I kick into first. clutch has no moderation on engagement with transmission. I can stop it with brake pedal, engine slows slightly/near stall.
My cbx does something like this as well but I shift up and down while on the center stand until it loosens up, if I attempt to ride away before it's loose it'll lurch forward and stall. The Gs shows no improvement with shifting up and down.
Time to call Rapid Ray!
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