84 1150 spark plugs

[racerguy36]

Ok guys, 84 GS1150EF, 4 into 1 yosh, k&n pods, stage 3 dynajet kit in the carbs, Dyntnatek 2000 ignition system with the grey coils, and 7mm silicone suppression wires. and NGK DR8ES plugs. Stock cams, and the valves were just checked and adjusted within specs.

Questions:

-the stock plug is a DR9EA, it was suggested I go to the 8's, opinions? The 8's are in it now, and it runs ok.
-hate the cheap ass wires that came with the Dyna Kit, looked at the MSD set, but at 85 bucks, I'm sure I can find some bulk 8 or 8.5mm and make a set cheaper
-coils-the kit came with the big grey ones, and I made some "L" brackets to mount them in the stock location and I've had an issue where they're archin off the bottom of the tank...so I took some 3mm rubber and added it to the mount so the rubber covers the coils so it can't make contact with the underside of the tank. Still have issues....
We made a bracket and mounted the Dynatek module near the battery, I'm thinking about moving the coils back there to eliminate the arching issue, has anyone done this? Does the extra length of the ignition wires affect performance? It's a street bike, and I ride with a friend that has an 86 GSXR1100. (he messes up just a little, and he's watchin my tailpipe I wanna keep it that way)

What plugs should I run, is moving the coils do-able, any suggestions on ign wires?

I have the RPM limiter on the box set @ 10500, but she still pulls hard and I shift at 12500 when the needle hits the bottom of the guage, does the Dynatek box need to be programmed? It was my understanding that it would pop and fart @ 10500 but it pulls to 12500.
The info that came with the Dynatek kit was pretty generic and I'm at a bit of a loss with the brain box.

Took the bike for a ride sunday, ran great for 30 mins, then started poppin a bit and backfiring, would hardly run at a stop sign in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in.

I know there's a lot here, but everything is related and I'm afraid of screwing something up.

 

[blowerbike]

if the bike is in a good state of tune....plugs won't matter...no magic in spark plugs.
in the US 1150's came with D8EA's.
i have used split fires/autolite/champion/NGK...never seen a rats ass of difference.
when in doubt just run the D8EA's...around here there 2 bucks a piece.

 

[blowerbike]

at 12,500 your going to drop a valve if you continue.
with stock cam's and lobe centers your engine is done around 9500....trust me on that.
continue with caution.

 

[Nessism]

Only reason to run the hotter plug is if the colder one is fouling or loading up.

7mm wires will move all the energy those coils can produce. You don't need the arcing protection the 8mm jobs afford, but go for them if you think they are worth the cost as an appearance upgrade.

Pretty sure that Dyna 2000 has a programmable rev limiter. Haven't read the instructions so don't know how to set it though.

 

[racerguy36]

RPM noted, 12500 not a good idea.....thats one of the reasons I went with the Dyna 2000 instead of the Dyna S was the built in rev limiter. In the instructions, all it says is dial the limiter to the desired rpm limits, (there's a small dial on the outside of the box) It doesn't seem to be working tho, thats why I asked about the programming.

 

[Guest]

Call Dyna out in California. They will talk you thru your problems... I run a Dyna S with green coils on both my GS's. They both run without issues. On the drag bike, I have a drl400 for rev limiter and two step. My shift lite is set at 9500 just like Blower said. It seems to work for me also. If you get bored, use the search function and look up 'historical documents' to see a dyno sheet on my motor... You will see where torque and horsepower are at the sweet spot.
Curt