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  • In order to help others find info on a particular bike, be sure to put the year, make or model of bike that you are asking a question about, in the Topic Title. This will allow people to pass by posts they have no interest in.

85 zx600 ninja

chuck hahn

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
I can grab one up thats been setting years due to a bad starter clutch. He has all the gaskets and rebuild kit but just isnt ever gonna dig in and fix it,. Its the blue paint. Its all there 100% and the paint is a 8 out of 10.....its not all beat up though.

Question is is it worth the 500 bucks he wants? It would for sure be a project that in the end will be sold. Im not into a flip for profit deal just would like to get what i put in out of it. That being said (since i have no knowledge of the following of this bike) what would you guys say a running and ridable vintage ninja is worth? I was told the early ones are what everyone is interested in. Any truth to that?
 
A think the GPZ 550s are a lot more "collectible" than the early Ninja 600s are. Not sure this one would be worth bothering with.
 
I had one and liked it. That year is good looking-though not nearly as potent as the next version (only a little more than a year later), but it is a great looking bike, handles well, and should be somewhat collectible due to its status as the very first Ninja 600.
 
Why not flip for profit? You have the skills and work ethic so why not. Save the profit for your next project.

I would think that it would be worth an easy $1500 in running condition, maybe more. I'd do it assuming it has lowish mileage and doesn't need tons of extras.
 
WARNING
I used to work in the industry as a tech although not for Kawasaki. But I do know from experience that virtually EVERY Kawasaki 4 stroke from the 85-86 era had bad intake valves. Hard facing was too thin. The valves sink into the seats. I've had to do top ends on Ninja 250, Ninja 600, Ninja 1000 ,KLR650 from the era. I spent many hours on the phone to Kawasaki arguing about getting some kind of reimbursement. Kawasaki simply could not admit the extent of the problem because it would have cost millions. So, although I really like those old 600s, be fully prepared to do a complete head job with at least, New valves.

Mad
 
He mentioned something about having to have the top end gone through at one point. If i decide to grab it ill probe for more info on that topic..thanks.
 
WARNING
I used to work in the industry as a tech although not for Kawasaki. But I do know from experience that virtually EVERY Kawasaki 4 stroke from the 85-86 era had bad intake valves. Hard facing was too thin. The valves sink into the seats. I've had to do top ends on Ninja 250, Ninja 600, Ninja 1000 ,KLR650 from the era. I spent many hours on the phone to Kawasaki arguing about getting some kind of reimbursement. Kawasaki simply could not admit the extent of the problem because it would have cost millions. So, although I really like those old 600s, be fully prepared to do a complete head job with at least, New valves.

Mad

Definitely seen that happen with Ninja 900s and KLR 650s, but I haven't known anyone who had similar issues with the Ninja 600.
 
From what i can find it seems i can do the starter clutch just like i did it on my 83 KZ750 L3. remove clutch and basket, drop oil pan, and remove secondary shaft. Starter clutch "SHOULD" drop out the bottom. Any input on this guys?
 
Why do you have to remove the clutch basket?
 
To get to the right side bearing retainer plate screws, Those and the oil pump screws. I got a way to lean the bike almost to a 45 angle and just reach in and jump clutch off the primary chain.

EDIT... I would be removing it anyways because yu know those steals and fibers are fused together and need pried apart.
 
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From what i can find it seems i can do the starter clutch just like i did it on my 83 KZ750 L3. remove clutch and basket, drop oil pan, and remove secondary shaft. Starter clutch "SHOULD" drop out the bottom. Any input on this guys?

From memory they're the same layout. But I'd count it as a bench job. IMO too much potential to lose a spacer or a roller from the secondary shaft bearings.
But hey, if you've done it once....
 
Yeah i did the KZ a few months ago. Ended up that one of the plungers that goes over the spring stuck in the hole causing the clutch to fail. Whole deal only took an hour and a half.
 
Chuck I think those are due for a huge jump in collectablity, and vintage race popularity.
I've been riding my 87 CBR600 for 2 years and love it.
 
I found a few discussions on the soft valves issue by doing google searches. From what ive uncovered the estimated bad engines were somewhere around the first 1000 to 1500. Least ive got something to look at next time i go over to my buddies place. IM about 80/20 on pulling the trigger.
 
I've had to do several Ninja 600 top ends. And,if this bike has had a" Top end" done, you better hope they didn't just grind the valves. That would remove most of the rest of the hard plate and make things way worse. Only real fix is a new set of valves. On one 86 Ninja 1000 I worked on ,one intake valve had pulled completely through the seat.

Mad
 
I found a few discussions on the soft valves issue by doing google searches. From what ive uncovered the estimated bad engines were somewhere around the first 1000 to 1500. Least ive got something to look at next time i go over to my buddies place. IM about 80/20 on pulling the trigger.

I'm not sure about that. I saw a whole lot of them. Both from 85 and 86. If that number came from Kawasaki I'd be very suspicious. Remember, they were desperately trying to cover their asses. Apparently their main supplier of valves screwed up. Took awhile to discover the extent of the problem. By that time there were a lot of bikes out there.
I'm not saying to not buy the bike. If I ever come across a good one ill snap it up. But I'd plan on doing the head 100%

Mad
 
On a related note, my friend had a 1986 Ninja 250. It had the bad valves. It got progressively harder to start as the valves sank into the seats. So he had his son tow him and tried to bump start it. Backfired through the intake and set his airbox on fire. He was lucky to get it out. That was another one I had to fix.

Mad
 
Mad.. I've been thinking do the valves regardless. I'm trying to see what the superceded part numbers were for the replacements. That or any info on what all years are the same as the 85. To be certain is better than to believe it's been done. I'll also look at the engine number.

Anyone know where I might find old service bulletins from back in the day?. I sure am leaning hard but would feel more comfy knowing I can buy the upgraded valves.
 
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