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A Better Slotted Cam Sprocket Bolt

srsupertrap

srsupertrap

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
For those of you who's GS set up includes slotted cam sprockets I would suggest next time you have your valve cover removed you may want to consider replacing the Suzuki Cap Screws (On the newspaper) with McMaster Carr P/N 92235A238 Flange Head Alloy Socket Cap Screw, $ 4.62 for a quantity of 10.

I slotted my cam sprockets with a rat tail file back when and the results were not perfectly symmetrical. The McMaster Carr flange head screws increase the surface area contacting the cam sprocket which translates into less chance of slipping. The downside is the length of the screw is 16mm and needs to be trimmed flush. The Dremel H/D cutting wheel made quick work of it though.

CamSprocketBolt2.jpg
 
Good post! Are these bolts the same (or better!) strength as the STOCK bolts? This is VERY important as they will destroy an engine if they break or "stretch" loose. Ray.
 
I have no idea what the Suzuki OEM Bolts are rated but these screws are rated @ Rockwell Hardness Minimum C39 & Minimum Tensile Strength of 176,900 psi.

The amount of tensile force exerted on the sprocket bolt in this application will be proportionally to how much torque is used to tighten the bolt. More torque more static tensile stress working on the thread surface which can lead to thread stretch.
 
I hate Sukzuki's cam bolts. Why couldn't follow Kaw's 3 bolt.

The 1100s use a bolt. No problem but you can't get a socket on them. The head is too close to the lip that the gear fits on.

Worse, they use a 7mm, not your common 6. No one has 7's. I tore apart a stock 1100 over winter and it had a much better bolt, but I have no idea what years used it.
 
Mark, I don't know what you're talking about as I have about 15 different Snap On sockets that I use all the time on the stock Suzuki cam sprocket bolts. If it is a 6 mil allen bolt it is from an 80/81 1100 cam or the 81,82 750. Ray.
 
With the aftermarket parts, there is no way to get a socket on there. I have ground sockets to make a "c" but thats a pain. If the cams were just relieved in this area it would be a huge help. Seems to be a common problem. The bolts that were in this 1100 I think were a torx 7mm.

I never put the cams in the junker bike. When I get to that point I will take some pictures to show you how bad it is.
 
All of the after market 1100/1150 cams use the 7mm bolt. We have tried all of the oem bolts out there for our adjustable cam sprocket kits ( busa, etc) and the Suzuki bolt is the best and we include them in all of our conversion style kits.

Jay
 
Mark, I use the STOCK bolts, just like Jay said, on Web cams, Andrews, Cam Motions, & Megacycles & never have a problem using a Snap On socket. I just put Posplayer's motor together in front of him, degreed the cams & used the socket on his cams no problem! Ask him! Ray.
 
You must have something totally different than what I use, cause these things sux. So unless somthing changed over the last 25 years, they still sux. Never had one come loose, but could sure see how it could happen. Like I said, I'll post a picture next to a ground socket or something. All it would have taken was to relieve this area or move the bolt out away from the cam. Anything.
 
176.9ksi UTS sounds like a grade 8 bolt to me. I doubt Suzuki was using stronger bolts that that in the late 70's.
 
I came acoss the bolts I had found in that last motor. They were Torx but 6mm. So its back to the crappy bolts. Why didn't they just bump it to 8.
 
Mark, PM me your email address so I can send you a picture from my phone of a 10 mil socket on a cam sprocket bolt. Ray.
 
Those stock 7 mils are pretty hard. I like to tig a couple tacks on the sprockets to ensure there will be no movement
 
They ARE hard & Byron & all of the pro stock builders I know tack weld the bolts to the cam sprockets after the cams are degreed to keep them from moving. Ray.
 
Different sizes. . . . the McMaster Carr P/N 92235A238 Flange Head Alloy Socket Cap Screw are M6 x 16 for GS1000 2V.
 
Man Ray, your sockets look like they fit perfect. What sort of torque wrench are you using to get that close to the cam with and miss the cap?

If I get the junk bike close enough to try and run it, I'll drop the cams in and recheck it.
 
Mark, I use Snap On torque wrenches but the KEY is to use a long enough extension to get the torque wrench to the OUTSIDE of the head. I also rotate the cam to where i can get the extension & socket BETWEEN the spark plug galleys & the caps. It works EVERY time! I'll go out to the garage in a few minutes & take a picture of the way I do it so you can see exactly what I mean. Ray.
 
This would help. I saw the extensions but no swivel. Are you doing it without the inside caps on? I'll wait for the picture.... All these years of bottled up intense animosity towards these bolts, maybe there is a cure or at least a way to ease the pain.
 
Mark, I just sent 2 pics, & no, I don't have to use a swivel. If you want give me a call at 714-356-7845 & we can talk about it. I would also like to tell you about Don & that BS on Dragbike.com. Ray.
 
Pictures have not came across yet. Could it be that simple. Seems not but I am open to anything. I have a ground down wrench that I keep with the degree wheel that I use to snug the bolts when I adjust them. Don't like using an open end for this. Crazy stuff. May need to drag some parts out and have a look to refresh my memory. Maybe I just need to get a snap on 10 and wrench.

Don is always the center of some sort of BS. He's always dishing it out or getting trashed by someone. Funny stuff. I doubt I will ever meet him or work with him on anything so it really doesn't matter to me. Just entertainment.
 
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