Adapting Electrosport regulator - rectifier for 83-86 to 1978 GS750

[martin_montreal]

Your bike originally had a separate Regulator and separate Rectifier. You must remove both from the bike and discard.

- yes found that - done thanks. Pictur

1) Find the stator wires coming out of the engine case, and connect them directly to the YELLOW wires on the new R/R. If your stator is original, there may be a White/Green, White/Blue, and Yellow wires coming from the stator. Don't worry about the colors, just connect them to the yellows. It's important that you bypass the original wiring, and simply wire them direct now.

- I thought it was set this way but the white-green was not the stator wire as I'd thought so switched it per the photo.tomthe correct white-green. Thismleaves white green to white-red correct? I moved the solenoid up ) detop near the battery to make room for the reg-rec..

2) The GREEN wires from the R/R are ground. Join them together and take them directly to the battery.

- Did that thanks..

3) The Red R/R output should go to the bikes harness, just upstream of the fuse. This connector was originally connected to the Rectifier.

- should have it as described thanks. I replaced the fuse sometime back with abetter one. Should it be 10, 15 or 30A? BTW...

In effect, you should have wiring like this...

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

- will go to computer and look more closely thanks. That said..still no power... NOTES and a few questions interspersed above. Thanks again!!!

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I’m confused. You say “still no power”. Are you diagnosing a lack of electrical power to the starter/starting problems, or a charging problem?

 

[martin_montreal]

I’m confused. You say “still no power”. Are you diagnosing a lack of electrical power to the starter/starting problems, or a charging problem?

It was charging at 13.3V when revved. Per the story, bike meltdown fried Dynatek, coils, e-ignition, testing etc. killed the battery. I installed and timed it, started it with the Old Rectifier and Regulator and it ran on all 4 seemed good so I did the test at the battery and at idle it wasn't showing more than 12.x voilts, when revved, about 13.3 max so, I'd bought this rectifier and want to use it to get it up to spec. After figuring out how to connect it up and installing per the picture of the wiring which I think is correct... I have no power when I turn the key. I need to test further. Maybe it's a bad ground on one of the wires or something simple... but the answer is Both, I want power and then when it runs again, to see the correct voltage... Does that help clarify? Thanks!

 

[Nessism]

- I thought it was set this way but the white-green was not the stator wire as I'd thought so switched it per the photo.tomthe correct white-green. Thismleaves white green to white-red correct? I moved the solenoid up ) detop near the battery to make room for the reg-rec..​

Please go to the bike and find the stator wires coming out of the engine case. There will be three wires. The color doesn't matter, but they might be any of the following colors: Yellow, White/green, White/Blue, White/red. AGAIN, the colors don't matter, just connect them directly to the yellow wires on the new R/R, bypassing the factory harness.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Then first get power to the key, the fuse block/everything after fuse block, and the engine cut off switch.

Only with bike running can you then move on to the churching system. Nessism has dumbed that down for all of our benefit with his diagram and descriptions. But frankly, from what I can make out in your pics, the wiring connections in your charging system are just really bad, not clean, and too many of them. Multiple Bad, green/corroded, tentative connections cause resistance/heat and melted wires and terminal blocks. With those connections, even a new RR and stator don’t stand much of a chance of making the voltage you need to get back to the battery. IMHO. Sorry if that seems blunt.

I do want to see you to get it sorted. Everyone who is posting in this thread does too. I did it, with their help too. So can you. But first things first. Power to everything. Get it running, Then clean up the wiring to and from the charging components (stator, RR, battery).

 

[martin_montreal]

Please go to the bike and find the stator wires coming out of the engine case. There will be three wires. The color doesn't matter, but they might be any of the following colors: Yellow, White/green, White/Blue, White/red. AGAIN, the colors don't matter, just connect them directly to the yellow wires on the new R/R, bypassing the factory harness.

- I will go check again but that is how I believe it is connected. I'd made a mistake first time round but the 3 from the stator go to the yellow wires in the reg-rec. It's a poor photograph so tough to see. Thank you.

 

[martin_montreal]

Then first get power to the key, the fuse block/everything after fuse block, and the engine cut off switch.

- It ran perfectly aside from slightly low voltage before I pulled the rec - regs...

Only with bike running can you then move on to the churching system. Nessism has dumbed that down for all of our benefit with his diagram and descriptions. But frankly, from what I can make out in your pics, the wiring connections in your charging system are just really bad, not clean, and too many of them. Multiple Bad, green/corroded, tentative connections cause resistance/heat and melted wires and terminal blocks. With those connections, even a new RR and stator don’t stand much of a chance of making the voltage you need to get back to the battery. IMHO. Sorry if that seems blunt.

- Yes tested as mentioned prior to installing this.
- I guess you cannot tell from the last photo but I changed all the connectors. They are crimped and clean. For the record, after I bought the bike ~10 years ago, I did what I had time for, could afford and it needed in order to run as my second bike. As to the connectors, I had taped them all back then when I tested the charging system. Any pictures showing them bare is prior to changing them - needed to decide Male & Female and was during the testing phase...

I do want to see you to get it sorted. Everyone who is posting in this thread does too. I did it, with their help too. So can you. But first things first. Power to everything. Get it running, Then clean up the wiring to and from the charging components (stator, RR, battery).

- Thanks yes I am sure and appreciate all the input. I expect to get some help tomorrow and we'll just have to test every connection but given that it started before the reg + rec to reg-rec swap, the testing / issue is likely one of the connections that was changed.

- Additional comments interspersed above. Again thanks!

 

[Suzukian]

You have a good mechanic coming, I'd film what he does with your phone(if he doesn't have a problem with it) so you can study it, and learn from it. I have a feeling you will be posting about how well your bike is running tomorrow.

@Nessism​ Right on the money!!

 

[martin_montreal]

Thanks for the help. In the end I did have it wired correctly but when I moved the solenoid, mistook the wire to the starter for a ground. This was quicky diagnosed by the seasoned, second set of eyes who thought all was gwell after it started and left as he was in a huge rush. I knew it wasn't because it was charging even less, ran far worse than it did with the old reg-rectifier setup and in the end, pulled the batter voltage down to 11.x. I will order a stator, possibly a solenoid* and see from there. (There was always a hesitation before it clicked to start and since cleaning the switch had no effect and I'm into this, I'll try to address as well.) Cheers.

 

[Suzukian]

You were feeding 12 volts to ground, "potentially", at least you have resolution. I always take pictures of anything I take apart first. With phones being able to do so, and very easily, and my mind not as good as it used to be, I make sure I have my bases covered.It has to feel good having this behind you now. Hope you go for a nice ride, you deserve it.

 

[martin_montreal]

You were feeding 12 volts to ground, "potentially", at least you have resolution. I always take pictures of anything I take apart first. With phones being able to do so, and very easily, and my mind not as good as it used to be, I make sure I have my bases covered.It has to feel good having this behind you now. Hope you go for a nice ride, you deserve it.

- Thanks. Solenoid was wrong because I moved it and despite the photos, made a mistake. Fixed now, no ride, it starts, runs poorly, charges battery 13.3v at revs. Probably still has an issue but Electrosport stator won't be here for a week and I will not test all the circuits until it's installed. I ordered a solenoid too because it always had a delay on starting and I cleaned the switch. Hopefully the stator gasket from eBay will be adequate and arrive in time. Thx for all your input. I hope the documentation helps others one day...

 

[Suzukian]

13.8volts is max, 13.3 is acceptable. The experience you posted will always help others. The final resolution is of most importance, the finality and resolution makes the thread complete.