Adapting Electrosport regulator - rectifier for 83-86 to 1978 GS750

[martin_montreal]

Short story - Can someone advise ** beyond what I got from Electrosport when they confirmed it would work for my bike?

PLEASE SEE MY SECOND POST BELOW WITH ADDITIONAL IMAGE showing old unit installed on the motorcycle. I was advised that:

The new one is a regulator rectifier ... old one is just a rectifier so the bike has a separate regulator which ... must be removed."
"yellows are a/c inputs
red id dc+
green is ground"

I have on the new unit:

• 2 greens,
• 2 reds,
• 3 yellows

This is a never installed, used part.
I checked it and it's good. It cost me $40 CDN or ~$30 USD fyi.


The old rectifier - regulator is putting out 13.3V max at the (new) battery when the bike is revved up. When I tested this over a decade ago, it was around 14.5V.*
​
The OEM wiring is of course:

• 1 red (easy)
• 1 yellow (easy)
• 1 white & red - not so easy
• 1 white & blue - less clear

​Problem
There is a longer story but in summary, at least one side of the e-ignitions, both (used) Dyna-S coils and a bunch of bulbs and fuses burned after re-installing the engine.

History
Before this happened, while running the bike for break-in after rings, carbs, exhaust and more were upgraded, I had zero issues for ~500 miles. I only revved it up to 4,000, 4,500, occasionally 5,000 RPM for a second or two. Before the rebuild for decades, I rode the bike hard and never had the famous charging issues.* After I got the bike running, I installed some used green (3 ohm) Dyna-S coils that had a chip off one of the connectors. They were great until that last ride described in the Analysis.

Years back, when the points could no longer be cleaned, filed etc., I installed the original Dyna-S e-ignition, and it ran (great) with OEM coils until after the rebuild.

Analysis
The first hint, with the original OEM coils was the neutral light went out when I first started the bike after installing the engine.
Then the failing brake light I noticed turned out to be one burnt filament in the bulb.
Other ignition lights went out. I changed them all and they are fine now.
I wondered if the headlight was not as strong and ordered a PIIA but then before it was received, the bike just failed stranding me: 2 cylinders out then finally no start, fried fuses and dead.

Solution
Dyna-S sent a new ignition and coils, which I installed and timed. All my testing eventually fried the battery so that's new. The bike started and runs on 4 nicely it seems but the regulator - rectifier confirms as suspect although the bench tests I ran showed it as fine. Anyway I have the part and will install then diagnose further from there unless I get lucky and there are no other issues.

** Question **
I just need to know how to wire it!

My guess is from Part to bike:

• Red 1 to red - DC
• Red 2 to white & red - DC?
• Yelllows (3?) bound together or just use one? to yellow. - AC
• Green to white and blue? Ground

But I'm Really not sure about this so I stopped and began researching further after cutting off those really nice connectors that I wish I could just plug and play like all the new bike guys do lol.

Thanks if you have the answer. I'm not a mechanic or great with electricity, just a DIY guy. I do my best with all my stuff but always stop to ask when I don't see the answer. Sometimes I figure it out the next day as I did many times with all of the above but this one is a bit trickly for me. ​

 

[Suzukian]

The 3 yellow wires go to the 3 plugs on the Regulator/Rectifier from Electrosports. The positive and negative wires go to your + positive battery post, and the ground to you - negative battery post. Follow the ground wire from the battery, and clean the ground connection. Suzuki didn't do a good job grounding these bikes. Also, many of these bikes only regulated one leg of the stator, the other two legs were allowed to swing up and down. This is why some things blew at high rpm's. The Electrosports Regulator/Rectifier regulates all 3 legs. You should get 13.8 Volts normally. Anything higher will bake the electrolyte out of your battery and run it dry. Do NOT tie the three leads from the Stator together! Usually the Stator blows with these bikes at the same time. It is possible you have a bad stator also.

I've done this repair on more Suzuki's than I can remember. Put a fuse on the Positive Lead going to the battery (30 amp), run 3 New Wires directly to the Regulator/Rectifier. Do not use the harness. The leads use a Gauge wire that is too thin. Use a gauge that matches your stator's wires (the position of the wires does not matter on the Stator wires to the Electrosport Regulator/Rectifier, just crimp in a spade connector, and plug each Stator Wires into the header pin). You will be shocked by how much better your charging system works.

 

[martin_montreal]

The 3 yellow wires go to the 3 plugs on the Regulator/Rectifier from Electrosports. The positive and negative wires go to your + positive battery post, and the ground to you - negative battery post. Follow the ground wire from the battery, and clean the ground connection. Suzuki didn't do a good job grounding these bikes. Also, many of these bikes only regulated one leg of the stator, the other two legs were allowed to swing up and down. This is why some things blew at high rpm's. The Electrosports Regulator/Rectifier regulates all 3 legs. You should get 13.8 Volts normally. Anything higher will bake the electrolyte out of your battery and run it dry. Do NOT tie the three leads from the Stator together! Usually the Stator blows with these bikes at the same time. It is possible you have a bad stator also.

I've done this repair on more Suzuki's than I can remember. Put a fuse on the Positive Lead going to the battery (30 amp), run 3 New Wires directly to the Regulator/Rectifier. Do not use the harness. The leads use a Gauge wire that is too thin. Use a gauge that matches your stator's wires (the position of the wires does not matter on the Stator wires to the Electrosport Regulator/Rectifier, just crimp in a spade connector, and plug each Stator Wires into the header pin). You will be shocked by how much better your charging system works.

Thanks. That's very nice of you to detail that. I am still a little unclear though.

The Eurosport regulator - rectifier has 7 wires: 3 yellow, 2 red, 2.green.

The old rectifier has 4 / 1 each: yellow, red, white g red, white & Blue + a ground to the bolt in the bike.

I don't see from your description exactly where to connect each if the 7 wires.

I had fused the e-iignition last time round but the new unit's instructions didn't talk about that so I left it in. It currently has a red 10a in the fuse holder I'd installed but I think it had a blue 15a (that blew when the the meltdown occured)...

++++++
Please see the picture in the next post and comment on my current installation.

Thanks!

 

[martin_montreal]

I could not upload more than one inage i posted the question to a FB group with more photos including this one showing the old unit installed on the bike and received this.

"In the picture your new one is a regulator rectifier your old one is just a rectifier so on the bike you will also have a separate regulator which you also have to remove."

My response, which is poses more to my question,

"... thank you. I had no idea. Now I need to research further. Which is the regulator? Maybe once that is pulled the wiring will make more sense but I'll still need to figure it out"

.

 

[Suzukian]

Your Stator should have 3 wires coming off of it. Those would go to the three leads on the "Electrosports" Stator input. You are going to have to remove the old separate Regulator and Rectifier system from your bike, before you do that, follow the out put from these wires, or, with a schematic, determine where they go. They just may have to be attached to different positive and negative points. I don't have the schematic for your bike. You could contact "Electrosports" and they mau have a downloadable diagram that shows you how they prefer you do it.

The main thing is to follow the output from the old components. The Stator wires (which is why I say do not use the old Harness, wire them directly) which if done in that manner, will give you two 12Volt DC outputs (actually a few volts higher), and you can see that on the plug in the pic you provided. The other leads from the regulator are going to go to other components on your bike that need 12 Volts, but this time they will be better regulated, and not blow. You need a circuit tester (a probe with a battery and light, and alligator clip) to follow the wires, and figure out what goes where. Again this is assuming you have no schematic, or don't know how to read one. You get real world readings this way also. When you find the sources, you would wire them respectively, to their negative or positive source off of your new R/R from Electrosports. It's best to run all the wires on the positive to once point, solder that, and connect that to you R/R. Same with the ground wires, all should go to one very cleaned, no paint, ground, the battery post works great for this. This way you won't end up with crazy voltage drops all over the place.

See if the picture below helps you.

 

[martin_montreal]

Wow. Thank you for that! I may have bitten off more than I can chew but will try.

I do have the shop manual and tried to download additional schematics in the past to no avail.

I hope it tells me which unit is the regulator lol I didn't know they were separate and still don't know which part to remove yet. ;-(

I was thinking of reaching out to the company to see. Nothing to lose there I guess but I have next to no expectations given their vague brief response included in my original post. That is all the guy wrote back when I asked if it would work on my bike and then after his affirmation confirmation, his response when I asked how to wire it...

 

[Killer2600]

Yellow, White/Blue, White/Red are all stator wires.

What model electrosport regulator/rectifier is this? What bike is it actually for? My looking up 83-86 suzuki GS regulator/rectifiers on their site doesn't come up with anything with 7 wires. Off hand, the only 7 wire ones I've found are for Yamaha and they use a different type of charging system that uses a field coil instead of permanent magnets and the field coil is connected to the regulator with a green wire.

 

[martin_montreal]

Yellow, White/Blue, White/Red are all stator wires.

What model electrosport regulator/rectifier is this? What bike is it actually for? My looking up 83-86 suzuki GS regulator/rectifiers on their site doesn't come up with anything with 7 wires. Off hand, the only 7 wire ones I've found are for Yamaha and they use a different type of charging system that uses a field coil instead of permanent magnets and the field coil is connected to the regulator with a green wire.

Me too hence my note and response to the company

 

[martin_montreal]

Wow. Thank you for that! I may have bitten off more than I can chew but will try.

I do have the shop manual and tried to download additional schematics in the past to no avail.

I hope it tells me which unit is the regulator lol I didn't know they were separate and still don't know which part to remove yet. ;-(

I was thinking of reaching out to the company to see. Nothing to lose there I guess but I have next to no expectations given their vague brief response included in my original post. That is all the guy wrote back when I asked if it would work on my bike and then after his affirmation confirmation, his response when I asked how to wire it...

- progress fyi thanks all of you! Much appreciated!

 

[Killer2600]

That sku number 321-1653 comes back as a ESR550 for a 1998-99 Suzuki LT-F500F Quadrunner 4x4 but from electrosport's website the ESR550 only has 5 wires and none of them are yellow. I don't know what regulator you have but best of luck - either I read the number on the box wrong or that box doesn't match up with the regulator that came in it.

 

[martin_montreal]

That sku number 321-1653 comes back as a ESR550 for a 1998-99 Suzuki LT-F500F Quadrunner 4x4 but from electrosport's website the ESR550 only has 5 wires and none of them are yellow. I don't know what regulator you have but best of luck - either I read the number on the box wrong or that box doesn't match up with the regulator that came in it.

Yes couldn't find it either hence emails back and forth to company. Seller said his son bought it and it was supposed to be for his 84 GS 750 and notes say 83-86 plus that 763130 on box...

 

[Killer2600]

Well the ESR130 would be for a 1984 GS750ES/ESF, GSX750ES/ESF and it's 5-wire and matches OEM color coding (as does all the electrosport regulators I've looked up thus far). I'm just puzzled why two red and two green wires - it'd be nice to confirm with OEM diagram where they go and perhaps get a clue why they are in a pair. But barring getting the actual model number for the part you have, wire it up how they suggest and see how it goes. If it smokes, it smokes; in which case you can buy a legit drop in replacement that's correct.

 

[Suzukian]

I found the doubled DC voltage odd too, I don't know if it's a parallel output, or two independent outputs. I kind of think they are in parallel. That could easily be checked with an Ohm Meter, unless each output is diode protected, which would make sense. I don't know that schematics for what's inside Electrosport products are available. I do know that their stators produce 20% more voltage. I have one in my '83 GS750ES.

I ended up using a R/R from a Yamaha XS1100 in my bike. It's heavier duty, and has huge cooling fins.

 

[Killer2600]

I don't know that schematics for what's inside Electrosport products are available. I do know that their stators produce 20% more voltage

That's apparently their claim to fame

The copper wire itself is of the highest grade and we modified the winding configuration a bit compared to the OEM stator to increase output by about 15% and lower the amount of heat generated inside the winding which drastically improves reliability.

Upping voltage and lowering current would reduce how hot the stator gets at any given power output.

 

[Suzukian]

I agree. Their Stator, holding it in my hand, and comparing it to the stock one, you could see it was wound differently. Not having to mass produce like Suzuki did, they could use higher quality copper, which in itself would reduce resistance, and allow for a stronger magnetic field creation. Quality Stator, I've been running it for 10 years, no problems.

 

[martin_montreal]

It's all connected but no power. I must have missed something or just did something wrong. Will send this picture with a summary to the contact at the company who said it would work in case they see my mistake. The 2 pics summarize how it's hooked up. I moved the starter solenoid to fit the reg-rec on the battery case - space problem and wire on hand limitations.
​​​

 

[martin_montreal]

Starter solenoid location...

 

[Suzukian]

It would be hard to know without even a hand drawn wiring diagram. I can't tell where you put the output of the regulator. If you ran that through the harness, big mistake. It should go to the battery. It doesn't look like you did that, but I can't tell from that pic. A phone conversation with a tech from the company would get you where you need to be quicker.

 

[martin_montreal]

It would be hard to know without even a hand drawn wiring diagram. I can't tell where you put the output of the regulator. If you ran that through the harness, big mistake. It should go to the battery. It doesn't look like you did that, but I can't tell from that pic. A phone conversation with a tech from the company would get you where you need to be quicker.

Thanks. I called but he was not available So we've been exchanging emails with images. He suggested one change after I sent the video and advised of the likelihood of the white red to white green front to back issue but still no power. https://youtu.be/XU9nL8UiD2A I'm expecting an experienced mechanic supposedly good with electricity tomorrow so hopefully with a tester and schematic will get it. Thank you so much for trying.

 

[Nessism]

Your bike originally had a separate Regulator and separate Rectifier. You must remove both from the bike and discard.

1) Find the stator wires coming out of the engine case, and connect them directly to the YELLOW wires on the new R/R. If your stator is original, there may be a White/Green, White/Blue, and Yellow wires coming from the stator. Don't worry about the colors, just connect them to the yellows. It's important that you bypass the original wiring, and simply wire them direct now.

2) The GREEN wires from the R/R are ground. Join them together and take them directly to the battery.

3) The Red R/R output should go to the bikes harness, just upstream of the fuse. This connector was originally connected to the Rectifier.

In effect, you should have wiring like this...

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr