Adjusted the clutch...now can't ride. What?!

[oldrookie]

Noticed the clutch was slipping in 4th and 5th this morning.

So, I adjusted the clutch according to Clymer's and it slipped in every gear.

Tried again and the bike wouldn't move.

Tried again and the clutch wouldn't disengage so it was pulling all the time.

Any suggestions?

 

[Guest]

I adjust mine when it is hard to get into neutral. I suppose that's caused by cable stretch. The adjustments can move the engagement closer to, or farther from the grip, but there is always a very narrow space between engaged and disengaged. Personally I like mine close to the grip. From your description it sounds like it might be time for a clutch replacement.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Might want to check your clutch springs and see what their measurements are. If they are past the service limit - replace them.

 

[Guest]

Also what's your cable like? Old or new? If it's old it could be stretched beyond usefullness meaning no amount of adjustment will make it work right, same deal if it's frayed somewhere along it's length, that will cause it to stretch as you work the clutch...

 

[oldrookie]

All of that could be the issue and I'll check, but it was running pretty well until I "helped" it.

Cable could be original.

 

[Nessism]

Noticed the clutch was slipping in 4th and 5th this morning.

So, I adjusted the clutch according to Clymer's and it slipped in every gear.

Tried again and the bike wouldn't move.

Tried again and the clutch wouldn't disengage so it was pulling all the time.

Any suggestions?

You adjusted it wrong.

You need a little freeplay at the lever, but not too much.

Regardless of adjustment, the clutch will slip if the springs and/or the plates are worn.

 

[oldrookie]

Yea, pretty sure you are correct, Nessim.

Been fighting with it. I adjusted the helix screw as instructed by the manual. Set the play in the cable. No tire rotation.

Move the helix screw out half a turn, tire starts rotating without regard to where the clutch is. Put the screw back to where it was...tire still rotates. Lather, rinse, repeat half a dozen times.

Like trying to pin jello to the wall. Can't get a bead on where the helix screw is supposed to be since the reaction to any change to it defies logic.

 

[Guest]

You should not be pushing in the clutch rod at all with the adjustment at the sprocket. Make it so it is loose and make the final adjustment at the hand lever.

 

[Nessism]

You should not be pushing in the clutch rod at all with the adjustment at the sprocket. Make it so it is loose and make the final adjustment at the hand lever.

Listen to chef here.

The adjustment screw at the helix should be tightened until it just contacts the push rod, then you back it off 1/8 - 1/4 turn and set the lock nut. After that, tighten the cable adjusters to get the free play at the lever as needed.

 

[oldrookie]

Okay. I'll take another shot at it.

 

[oldrookie]

Trying to do as you tell me. Not sure of what the symptoms tell me.

I've got it moving under its own power, but the clutch slips. It'll move as long as I don't hit the gas too hard and rev it up.

I loosened the lock nut, backed the helix screw out two turns and then tightened it down until the resistance was significant, backed it off 1/2 turn and locked the nut down. Then began to adjust the cable with the adjuster in the case. Used the one at the handlebar at the last resort.

I can't get the bike to move unless the clutch cable is tighter than it should be.

Clutch? Cable? Nut trying to adjust them?

 

[Nessism]

Step 1) Turn in the cable adjusters at both the handle bar lever and where the cable goes into the case. You want maximum cable free play at the lever.

Step 2) Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster.

Step 3) Turn in adjuster until you JUST START TO FEEL resistance then back the adjuster off 1/4 turn and tighten locknut.

Step 4) Check feel at the lever. There should be some free play at the lever, but not a whole lot. If you don't know what free play is please ask.

Step 5) If necessary, tighten the cable further until you have a small amount of cable free play with the lever released, but not much. You must have lever free play or the clutch will slip.

Please follow these steps and report back.

 

[oldrookie]

Will do. That's a bit different than the Clymer manual, but I don't trust it much. Prefer the voice of experience. Will give this a try tomorrow.

Can't believe I got through the valve adjustment process and can't get the crazy cable adjusted correctly.

Thanks for the patience and the help.

 

[oldrookie]

Oh, re: free play, the manual says 4mm. Assume that to be correct?

 

[Nessism]

Oh, re: free play, the manual says 4mm. Assume that to be correct?

I don't know how they measure free play but regardless...

When you first pull the hand lever there should be a short amount of lever travel where slack in the cable is being taken up but there should be no real resistance felt. That is free play.

 

[oldrookie]

I know this won't surprise anyone, but Nessim nailed it. Followed his procedure (which is exactly opposite of the Clymer manual regarding where to set the helix screw) and got it dialed in.

Haven't tested 5th at higher rpm (getting some sprinkles after no rain for months and I have no desire to test these tires on potentially oil-slick roads,) but it pulls from low rpm in 1-4 with no slippage. Has appropriate free play at the lever and good tension on the pull.

Thank you for your help and patience with a rookie wrench.

Next up, tires and tubes.

 

[Guest]

Way to go Ed.
I need to be more specific.
I'm glad you got it sorted.

 

[oldrookie]

Chef,

I'm just to new at this to be sure what the screw was pushing on, or even what you meant.

I've never opened the clutch case on anything, so really have no idea of what is linking up with what.

I suppose the good news is that I can learn and am willing to listen to those with more experience/training. I've dealt with plenty that weren't.

 

[Guest]

Chef,

I'm just to new at this to be sure what the screw was pushing on, or even what you meant.

I've never opened the clutch case on anything, so really have no idea of what is linking up with what.

I suppose the good news is that I can learn and am willing to listen to those with more experience/training. I've dealt with plenty that weren't.

I was giving Ed a hard time. He's my friend. Not directed at you.
I am glad you got it straight.
We all started somewhere with these old bikes.

 

[oldrookie]

Sorry, Chef,
Didn't mean to denigrate your contribution, just not experienced enough to understand what you were telling me.

Happy to learn, but I am very much the "oldrookie" when it comes to turning a wrench.