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After a lot of work and money...it's official--no front brake at all

  • Thread starter Thread starter oldrookie
  • Start date Start date
Wonder if the holes in the banjo bolts themselves may be clogged??? Clogged up bleeder valves too?
 
Last edited:
Has anyone mentioned cleaning out the return breather hole with a strand of wire? If this breather is not open the M/C will never work correctly.
 
Dont know...he did say theres not that little return spurt from this 550 master like there was on his 650 master. heres how i clear clogged bleedes though..heat them real good with a propane toch and quench in water. Do this twice and then blow compressed air thru the passages. The heat and quench breaks all rust and corrosion out instantly
 
Well, some brake pressure this morning, but if it follows its usual pattern it will gradually reduce. Exactly like the oem rebuilt MC--but perhaps a bit more lever travel at the highest pressure it builds.

Tempted to return to the OEM MC. At least I know the piston and cup set is new and it does give me a bit more brake pressure.

I checked the line when I had the system torn down. I blocked one end and applied a vacuum to the other end. It held the pressure with no leakdown.

Video uploading now. Will add link when it gets done.

As always, I really appreciate the time you have all taken to help figure this out.
 
It can happen with new style braided lines that the inside is dry and repels brake fluid, the surface tension is such that the air bubble stays put stuck to a dry spot, as you bleed. The fluid flows around the bubble.

possible solutions;
- violent bleeding as agemax suggested.
or
- disconnect the line from caliper hold it as straight as possible above the MC, holding the banjo between thumb and finger to act like a one way valve,and pump MC till solid fluid emerges. It will be impossible to reconnect to calpier without air entering, however line is now wet all over inside and you know MC is pumping. bleed again.
 
john82q said:
It can happen with new style braided lines that the inside is dry and repels brake fluid, the surface tension is such that the air bubble stays put stuck to a dry spot, as you bleed. The fluid flows around the bubble.

possible solutions;
- violent bleeding as agemax suggested.
or
- disconnect the line from caliper hold it as straight as possible above the MC, holding the banjo between thumb and finger to act like a one way valve,and pump MC till solid fluid emerges. It will be impossible to reconnect to calpier without air entering, however line is now wet all over inside and you know MC is pumping. bleed again.
Click to expand...

Well, that is an interesting post. Haven't heard that theory to date and I have spent a LOT of time researching the issue. Certainly might explain what I have been dealing with.

I'm game to give anything a try. I want brakes. Call me crazy, but I do.

I am just about become all about violent bleeding as well.
 
Don't know...I installed new SS lines and banjos and crush washers. I cracked open the bleeders and filled the reservoir with fluid. I then let the fluid work its way down to the caliper. After about 10 minutes of that, I bled the front brakes out in no time maybe 10 minutes with no problems. I have a good solid lever to boot. Rear brake took even less time. No bleed down or anything. Oh my calipers and MC have not been rebuilt expect for a new reservoir on the MC, that is pretty much it.
 
Nice term "violent bleeding"
I have always done mine that way in MCs and in other vehicles and it has always worked.

I get a buddy to pump the lever briskly then squeeze the lever all the way in.
Then I crack the bleeder to let the pressuirized liquid out.
Close the bleeder and have the buddy repeat the process till the air is gone.

Make sure the res is topped off and level and its should work.
 
oldrookie said:
Well, some brake pressure this morning, but if it follows its usual pattern it will gradually reduce. Exactly like the oem rebuilt MC--but perhaps a bit more lever travel at the highest pressure it builds.

Tempted to return to the OEM MC. At least I know the piston and cup set is new and it does give me a bit more brake pressure.

I checked the line when I had the system torn down. I blocked one end and applied a vacuum to the other end. It held the pressure with no leakdown.

Video uploading now. Will add link when it gets done.

As always, I really appreciate the time you have all taken to help figure this out.
Click to expand...
Curious about something; what has the difference been in your daytime/nighttime temperatures?

Do you store the bike in a heated garage?
 
Yep, always in the garage.

I recommend that you all buy stock in brake fluid companies. I've increased their profit margins significantly since I started this process.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
Nice term "violent bleeding"
I have always done mine that way in MCs and in other vehicles and it has always worked.

I get a buddy to pump the lever briskly then squeeze the lever all the way in.
Then I crack the bleeder to let the pressuirized liquid out.
Close the bleeder and have the buddy repeat the process till the air is gone.

Make sure the res is topped off and level and its should work.
Click to expand...

Gotten to the point where I can do both tasks myself. No buddy needed. Unfortunately, it is having no effect.
 
oldrookie said:
Yep, always in the garage.

I recommend that you all buy stock in brake fluid companies. I've increased their profit margins significantly since I started this process.
Click to expand...
The reason I ask about temperature fluctuation is that your description and video plays out like there is an air bubble trapped somewhere in the system, and should get a bit smaller when cold (i.e. better feel in the morning) and worse when warm. I have to admit that you are getting way more travel in that lever than I would expect from JUST a small trapped bubble.

I recall someone (DPep?) mentioning about getting a bubble inside part of the MC and experiencing something similar to what you have been going through.
 
oldrookie said:
Yep, always in the garage.

I recommend that you all buy stock in brake fluid companies. I've increased their profit margins significantly since I started this process.
Click to expand...

as long as you are bleeding into a clean container you can reuse that fluid to carry on bleeding until it is right. then once you are happy bleed again with new fluid to finish the job
 
I have to admit that you are getting way more travel in that lever than I would expect from JUST a small trapped bubble.
Click to expand...


yes, but he's got but numerous small trapped bubbles...
 
Tom MLC had leaky bleeder valves that led to this problem... Try some PTFE tape on the threads. (No - he didn't see fluid leaking either & yes the bleed screws were brand new replacements).

Nessism & JC had something similar that turned out to be worn sliding pins in the calipers...

Just a couple of ideas for you in case getting violent with your bleeding doesn't work... :D

With the amount of brake changes, modifications etc etc I have played with the last few years I have bled my fair share or systems. I usually "suck" the hose at the caliper end (or put a vacuum tool on it) until I see fluid then bleed away as normal.
I have needed to cable tie the lever back to the bars for a couple of days on one or two occasions (leaving it like that under pressure seems to help the air bubbles travel up & out a lot).

Good luck :)
 
How do you know if the slider pins are at fault? Caliper appears to be moving more at the top than at the bottom.

Uploading a video showing the interior of the MC when pumping the brakes. Seems to be only one hole in the GS500 MC. Bubbles came out at first, not now. Doesn't appear to any air coming out the bleeder at this point either...just simply no brake lever pressure to speak of.
 
You tell if the pins are at fault by removing them and wire wheeling all the craqp off them and then reinstalling them. roll them on something absolutely flat like a piece of glass to see if they are bent even the slightest bit also.
 
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