Air box displacement

[saaz]

Yep, I think trying to make it liek the earlier GSs would be the easiest way. Doesn't Hap run a single pod with the airbox in place.

BTW Keith, I have improved fuel economy since I did the bike up years ago. Always got around 50mpg, now get 60 or so in the same conditions. More power made more efficiently I think. I must have paid for the extra engine mods by now in gas savings alone

 

[Bolder Biker]

Re: Air box displacement

My thought exactly! Aren't the first generation 750s sooo much easier? Actually, you don't have to remove the carbs. Remove the seat, remove the bracket that the tank and seat fasten to. If you're a real sadist, you can leave the tank on, but you'll have to raise the rear of it up. I just didn't want to deal with gas lines and the gas gauge wire when I did it. The airbox will come out with some fancy twisting and foul language. :evil: Uh, why would you want to check the battery water anyway, isn't that what that light is for on the dash? :lol:

'83 to '85 GS750/700 is even easier:

1) Unlock and lift off seat.

2) There's the battery!

BB

 

[earlfor]

Re: Air box displacement

Well Simon, I understand you perfectly except for step 1 and step 2.
Its sooooooooooooo complicated.

Earl

'83 to '85 GS750/700 is even easier:

1) Unlock and lift off seat.

2) There's the battery!

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

BTW Keith, I have improved fuel economy since I did the bike up years ago. Always got around 50mpg, now get 60 or so in the same conditions. More power made more efficiently I think. I must have paid for the extra engine mods by now in gas savings alone

I've never heard of a 1000 getting that kind of mileage with a mix of driving conditions. Not even if the miles were all highway. Years ago I helped a friend jet a '79 1000. It was my first experience with jet kits. He installed a "Factory" jet kit. He simply set up the carbs to the recommended settings in their instructions and considered it re-jetted. It ran "OK". He commented how the mileage went from about 40, up to about 45. After several hundred miles, it became apparent the jetting was not right. He was getting some light pinging up hills, etc. We pulled the plugs and they were snow white.
I remember how he was happy about the better gas mileage, and we talked about the "efficiency" of a more powerful motor. It kind of made sense that a motor that made more power would not need the throttle opened as much and maybe that was why he got the better mileage. We both had read how drag racers run leaner mixtures and the motors run strong. I was not convinced and I told him I think to maintain the correct fuel/air ratio, the motor must use more fuel to match the increase in air intake, at least on a motor you want to last a long time. I've since noticed that lean running motors can fool you with their strong performance.
Anyway, the plug reads proved his motor was way too lean. We both played with the jetting and he was amazed at how much better the bike ran, because he thought it couldn't run any better. His gas mileage did go down similar to most of my other experiences. Usually a few mpg,
sometimes up to 5 mpg less.
I suppose there can always be exceptions under ideal conditions, but I would like to read your plugs after a few miles at 90 mph. I can't see a correctly re-jetted 1000 getting 60 mpg in the described conditions. Not with pods and a pipe. Not even a stocker. Just my experience.

 

[dpep]

BTW Keith, I have improved fuel economy since I did the bike up years ago. Always got around 50mpg, now get 60 or so in the same conditions. More power made more efficiently I think. I must have paid for the extra engine mods by now in gas savings alone

I've never heard of a 1000 getting that kind of mileage with a mix of driving conditions. Not even if the miles were all highway.

Saaz, U.S. or Imperial gallons?

 

[Bolder Biker]

Re: Air box displacement

Well Simon, I understand you perfectly except for step 1 and step 2.
Its sooooooooooooo complicated.

Earl

'83 to '85 GS750/700 is even easier:

1) Unlock and lift off seat.

2) There's the battery!

Of course, Earl, I forgot step 0:

Step 0: Where's my bl**dy key? :lol: :lol: :lol:

BB

 

[Dink]

Saaz, U.S. or Imperial gallons?

Saaz is an Aussie so imperial gallons.
Dink

 

[earlfor]

That explains it, everything is bigger is OZ. In US gallons, he is getting about 3 mpg. LOL

Earl

Saaz, U.S. or Imperial gallons?

Saaz is an Aussie so imperial gallons.
Dink

 

[Bolder Biker]

That explains it, everything is bigger is OZ. In US gallons, he is getting about 3 mpg. LOL

Earl

Saaz, U.S. or Imperial gallons?

Saaz is an Aussie so imperial gallons.
Dink

No, no, no, Earl!..........he's also using Imperial Miles........each of which is equivalent to 5/12ths of an Imperial League! :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:

(I could specify that in rods, poles and perches, if that would help )

BB

 

[earlfor]

Simon, Simon, how many times must I explain that in south Florida, the system of measurement is yonders, fer pieces and right heahs.

Earl

No, no, no, Earl!..........he's also using Imperial Miles........each of which is equivalent to 5/12ths of an Imperial League! :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:

(I could specify that in rods, poles and perches, if that would help )

BB

 

[Bolder Biker]

Simon, Simon, how many times must I explain that in south Florida, the system of measurement is yonders, fer pieces and right heahs.

Earl

Now I am confused! Shouldn't the volume measurement be in sips, slurps, messes and sh*tpot-fulls, then? :?

BB

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Earl:

Your original question was air box shape and volume important. I would say yes, but I cannot tell you how much and which is the most critical attribute.

Air box volume will affect midrange more and top end somewhat.

Air box intake opening sq. inches should stay the same and not be near the outlet. Watch shape of the openings, square flow differently than round for a given area. Rectangular shapes actually flow a little less than a circular shape of the same area, for instance. The conversion factor is 1/1.273 X rectangular area is the equivalent area for a round opening.

Air box volume should be equivalent or larger if possible.

Box shape? Unless you have a large volume with a snorkel or an hourglass shape, you should get no weird "tuning effects". I've played with snorkels and they affect tuning ALOT.

Keeping your airbox does make the powerband wider and the peak a little lower, so I can see why you want to keep it.

The modern trend is larger airbox and exhaust volumes. - Dieter

 

[earlfor]

Thanks for the input Tony, much appreciated. Your accessment of the whats and whys of the situation mirror my own and I am still thinking before starting any modification to the intake system. I figure If I change the system, the best I could hope for is to be able to equal the characteristics the engineers designed into it in the first place. I want to retain those parameters (balanced induction/exhaust system)

I want to be able to remove the airbox easily for access to the battery.
The solution I have decided on is to wax the right lower side of the airfilter box around the snorkel. (t is that section that protrudes and will not allow removal of the box.) Around the base of the snorkel, I will lay up a 2" wide flange of epoxy fiberglass. Once cured, it will release from the plastic airbox. Then, I will cut the snorkel box off off the side of the airfilter box with a cut line such that my cut line is in the middle of where my 2" epoxy flange was. Then I epoxy the flange to the cut off snorkel box. Now I have a snorkel box with a contoured flange that mates to the side of the airbox. A litttle bit of weatherstripping and a few screws and it is back in place. It can be removed easily after removing the right side body panel/plastic cover. I get to keep a smooth running bike, wide powerband and normal tuning characteristics.

Earl

Hi Earl:

Your original question was air box shape and volume important. I would say yes, but I cannot tell you how much and which is the most critical attribute.

Air box volume will affect midrange more and top end somewhat.

Air box intake opening sq. inches should stay the same and not be near the outlet. Watch shape of the openings, square flow differently than round for a given area. Rectangular shapes actually flow a little less than a circular shape of the same area, for instance. The conversion factor is 1/1.273 X rectangular area is the equivalent area for a round opening.

Air box volume should be equivalent or larger if possible.

Box shape? Unless you have a large volume with a snorkel or an hourglass shape, you should get no weird "tuning effects". I've played with snorkels and they affect tuning ALOT.

Keeping your airbox does make the powerband wider and the peak a little lower, so I can see why you want to keep it.

The modern trend is larger airbox and exhaust volumes. - Dieter

 

[pano]

I have the 821100e and always just removed the airbox to get the battery out. It was a little tight but could be done. I would lube up the rubber boots a little to make things slide a little better.

Only after having the carbs on and off a few times to clean them did I put the pods on. I just couldn't take the agrevation anymore.

I have had little problems with the pods but I jetted it in early spring in the cool air and my performance changed as the summer went on and it got hotter and the air was thinner.

I plan to revisit my jetting this spring

 

[earlfor]

On my 83, the only way the airfilterbox will come out from the top is if I crush the left side of the box about 3/4". Naaaaa, not doing that.

Earl

I have the 821100e and always just removed the airbox to get the battery out. It was a little tight but could be done. I would lube up the rubber boots a little to make things slide a little better.

 

[Jethro]

Are you aware that to remove the battery fully you still have to take the tank off and the mounting crossbar that holds the tank? Sure you'll be able to access it and check the water levels and such, but I couldn't believe it when I treid to pull the battery out. I don't like to charge it over the winter while it's still in the bike, just in case the thing bubbles over for some stupid mistake of mine.

When I fisrt got my 83 1100 I was like "Huh. Wonder why the tank mounting crossbar is bolted and removeable." Then I went to remove the damn battery. "Oh, that why it's removeable."

 

[Joe Nardy]

On my '83 GS1100 the battery practically jumps out by itself. It must be the cubic foot or so of empty space created when I removed the airbox and installed the hated (by Earl) :evil: PODS......................

HAHAHAHAHA!

Joe

 

[earlfor]

OH go buy a flyswatter and join Dink for a pleasant afternoon of wallaby swatting.

Earl

On my '83 GS1100 the battery practically jumps out by itself. It must be the cubic foot or so of empty space created when I removed the airbox and installed the hated (by Earl) :evil: PODS......................

HAHAHAHAHA!

Joe

 

[Joe Nardy]

OH go buy a flyswatter and join Dink for a pleasant afternoon of wallaby swatting.

Earl

HEY DINK! When would you like to get together and swat some wallabies? We both have plenty of time on our hands since we don't waste it wrestling with airboxes. If we can't find any wallabies we could spend the time chatting about how strong our bikes run with all that extra air flow ...... :lol: :lol:

Sorry, Earl. I just couldn't resist! 8)

 

[earlfor]

heh heh

E.

Sorry, Earl. I just couldn't resist! 8)