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Airbox boots no longer fit to the carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter StratJeff
  • Start date Start date
S

StratJeff

Guest
Hi everyone,

I've noticed some irregular performance and warm-up characteristics on my bike, and immediately suspected air leak issues. The hoses to the carbs are all fine, the filter to airbox seal is tight, and the carb to intake boots look in great shape. However, from the airbox to the carbs, the boots are slipping off. #1 is on tight, #2 is OK, #3 is slipping, and #4 practically had an air gap. I've tried loosing the clamps, pushing the airbox forward to get the boots to fully seat on the carb, but as soon as I start tightening the clamp, the boot starts to slip off.

It feels like either A) the end of the boot is warped and will never get a good grip on the carb, or B) the boots are too short.

I've noticed that the boots are not sold as individual components, nor are they listed as their own component on suzukipartshouse. I've found this link on Z1: https://www.z1enterprises.com/airbox-hoses-4-gs1000g-gl-80-81.html

As far as I can tell from looking at the two parts diagrams, these should be identical to my -E airbox hoses. Am I barking up the right tree?

Thanks!
 
Yes, on the carb side, the boots have a flat grooved surface where the hose clamp is designed to grip. On the airbox side, it just fits snug inside the cutouts of the airbox.
 
On my GS450 I have to pull the battery out to get the airbox into the right position to mate up to the carbs the right way. It could be that there's something keeping the airbox and boots from lining up right, just a thought
 
On my GS450 I have to pull the battery out to get the airbox into the right position to mate up to the carbs the right way. It could be that there's something keeping the airbox and boots from lining up right, just a thought

Doesn't really work like that on the 1000E, the airbox is well forward and under the frame.
 
Yes, on the carb side, the boots have a flat grooved surface where the hose clamp is designed to grip. On the airbox side, it just fits snug inside the cutouts of the airbox.

The "ring", item #3 forces the boot tight against the airbox, it keeps it there.

As LAB3 says, remove the filter box, I also remove all bolts holding the airbox. It makes it way easier to get it attached to the carbs.

Your boots may also be hard from age, new ones may be in order. The airbox can be a challenge to get on sometimes!

The boots are item#2, hose outlet, only $10 ea!
 
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The "ring", item #3 forces the boot tight against the airbox, it keeps it there.

As LAB3 says, remove the filter box, I also remove all bolts holding the airbox. It makes it way easier to get it attached to the carbs.

Your boots may also be hard from age, new ones may be in order. The airbox can be a challenge to get on sometimes!

The boots are item#2, hose outlet, only $10 ea!

Ok, I see you are talking about a 1000g and not the E, you never said that!

https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40320f8700230d8b4e9e2/air-cleaner look here for them, item #11 and 12. No rings though, I know the 1100 GL has the rings.
 
Sorry to hjack this thread, but...:

Confused over airbox boot & intake manifold P/Ns for the '78 GS750. Does this bike use the same P/N respectfully across all four carbs, or are there significant LH & RH parts (such as on the the GS850 for example)? I've seen the microfiche scans on line and all indicating one P/N per port x4, but I lack trust in their accuracy over the years as vendors might tweak them in their favor to unload surplus stock & such. And of the two airbox reseal tutorials I've found here, they specify LH & RH components at both front & rear of the airbox-bike model unclear. Insight appreciated. TIA.
 
No worries, no conspiracy

The VM carbed bikes, like yours, tend to use the same boots on both sides, because the carbs are smaller one n width.

The BS carbs are wider, so the boots need a bit of angling to align
 
Ahhhh, I get it now! I was tryin' to wrap my head around the idea that larger displacement caused the carb mounting schemes to widen (?!?). Never considered the VM vs. CV format differences. Thanks for setting me straight, Big T!!
 
If its a plastic airbox what happens is the heat eventuallu causes the front of the box to flex inward and the boots draw themselves off the carbs. I use a heat gun and a hammer handle to reset the face so its curved slightly toward the engine. Heat the plastic and shove the handle in and push the face out..hold till the plastic cools and the face is reset. Boots now will fit good.
 
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