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Airbox "Gasket" problems & woes

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The airbox side gaskets (my definition since Suzuki doesn't even acknowledge its existence) on my 1981 GS850G, which were crap when I got the bike in 2002, have totally gone south. They are swollen, and the bottom open sections are long gone. I have been nursing them along but want to do something better. This must have happened to others. Has anyone come up with the elegant fix?

I was thinking some sort of flexible/malleable rubber sheeting might be the basis for a repair but have no idea what exact material or a source.

See attached image for my sorry pieces and I see a beautiful one on page 14 of BassCliff's treatise on airbox repair. (wanna sell your set???)

Hope there is one or even several solutions I can manage. Lemmee know.

Thanks as always,

DH
 

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Thanks for the quick reply Nessim. That tutorial shows, as I mentioned on page 14, upper RH image, a pretty looking intact side gasket. No mention though of what to do if that pair is shot. I did find this:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/airbox-sealing.pdf

and I had used that method in the past, It has deteriorated over time, I guess I could do it again. Was hoping to sort of schooch up something that more closely resembles the OEM gasket. I do not know why Suzuki totally left this part off the parts diagram. They also disavow the choke plungers on the carbs as well. Did they just forget or do they not want us to be able to replace them is needed?

Anyway, thanks for your support.

DH
 
Thanks for the quick reply Nessim. That tutorial shows, as I mentioned on page 14, upper RH image, a pretty looking intact side gasket. No mention though of what to do if that pair is shot. I did find this:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/airbox-sealing.pdf

and I had used that method in the past, It has deteriorated over time, I guess I could do it again. Was hoping to sort of schooch up something that more closely resembles the OEM gasket. I do not know why Suzuki totally left this part off the parts diagram. They also disavow the choke plungers on the carbs as well. Did they just forget or do they not want us to be able to replace them is needed?

Anyway, thanks for your support.

DH

Looking closely at the image on pg 14 you're referring to, the gasket looks similar to older automotive door seals. They're somewhat round. Maybe you could find a door gasket that would work? OR... What about that foam pipe insulation that has adhesive on it? I don't know if there's a diameter small enough, but maybe you could find some of that at your local hardware store to put on the edge of the air box. Then use weather stripping on the cover like he shows.

OR... Isn't there door sill foam that's small diameter and tube shaped? Almost like a small pool noodle? I think I've seen some at HomeDepot, maybe that stuff would work? Maybe this https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Bui...ate-P-Strip-Weather-Stripping-02550/100353488
 
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Looking closely at the image on pg 14 you're referring to, the gasket looks similar to older automotive door seals. They're somewhat round. Maybe you could find a door gasket that would work? OR... What about that foam pipe insulation that has adhesive on it? I don't know if there's a diameter small enough, but maybe you could find some of that at your local hardware store to put on the edge of the air box. Then use weather stripping on the cover like he shows.

OR... Isn't there door sill foam that's small diameter and tube shaped? Almost like a small pool noodle? I think I've seen some at HomeDepot, maybe that stuff would work? Maybe this https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Bui...ate-P-Strip-Weather-Stripping-02550/100353488


Hi 93Bandit. The prob is not with the perimeter of the lower, open section. I have sealed that as stated in the past. It needs regular remove/replace action but that is OK. It is the upper sort of flat section that softens & distorts. I have ordered a 12" x 12" neoprene rubber sheet for about $5 delivered off of eBay. Hope I can fabricate a one piece duplicate of the factory seal with it. Will advise. If you look at the image in the earlier post one of these sections is off laying in front of the airbox. The other is feebly still adheres but I really need a cleaner solution.

DH
 
Some of the old rubber mouse pads can be good in some situations.
 
Some of the old rubber mouse pads can be good in some situations.

Hey thanks for your idea. But as I look at the mousepad I have, it does seem to be neoprene or at least neoprene-like but the thickness, I believe is a problem. The stock rubber item is not quite as thick and also has a thin grove into which the airbox metal fits to hold it in place and give a better fit. The mouse pad material is thicker and I don't have the skill or patience to recreate that groove. That is why I chose the 1/16" rubber pad. I believe it is thick enough to hold up while still being thin enough to compress a bit & let me scrunch it down with the two screw bolts on the sides of the chrome outer cover.

Of course I've never been wrong about anything before so what could go wrong here????? :confused:

Thanks for all of your support here. Letcha know how it works.

DH
 
Why are you opposed to using weather stripping?

It's very cheap, it's very easy, it works perfectly, it's very durable, it's proven, and no one's ever going to see it.

Pretty much every running GS shaftie is using weather stripping to seal the airbox lids.

A few folks have used neoprene; as noted, many mouse pads are made of this and they're cheap. I believe you usually need to bond together a few layers or find a very thick mouse pad as raw material.

But seriously, weather stripping is the way to go. Much faster.
 
Why are you opposed to using weather stripping?

It's very cheap, it's very easy, it works perfectly, it's very durable, it's proven, and no one's ever going to see it.

Pretty much every running GS shaftie is using weather stripping to seal the airbox lids.

A few folks have used neoprene; as noted, many mouse pads are made of this and they're cheap. I believe you usually need to bond together a few layers or find a very thick mouse pad as raw material.

But seriously, weather stripping is the way to go. Much faster.

Hi bwringer, thanks for jumping into this. I followed the section on this repair in Basscliff's guide a couple of times over the years, thought I had mentioned that. His images on pg. 14 show a nice intact, newish looking seal but mine are a total mess & do not properly fit into the metal edges of the airbox. (There is another guide listed there, AIRBOX SEALING by Mr Roostabunny but the link doesn't open so I don't know what it offers)

The weather stripping method handles, very effectively, the perimeter of the lower, "open" section of the airbox. My problem is the upper section the area behind which the rubber boots from the rear of the carbs enter. This area is covered by the top of that airbox seal, the solid, flat part. When I got this bike back in 2002, the whole rubber seal was already softened, swollen and distorted. I kept trying to get a good tight fit but things got worse. Eventually following the pictorial section on resealing the airbox (most excellent) I cut the lower section off and used the weatherstripping method to reseal. Now the top part is just too crapped out to keep wrestling with and I wanted to try to fabricate my own "Frankensteined" version of the original stock one piece seal. I don't know why it isn't shown in the Suzuki parts manual.

I could be wrong but if I can make this work, I'd rather have a one piece, OEM fascimile, than a failing top section with the effective weatherstripping below.

Sorry for wordiness, I had just thought my original postings & images clarified my rationale & intent.

Anyway, that's my story. Any input you have is humbly welcome. I do not consider my self much of a mechanic, just a bumbling geezer with a wrench in hand but I get great satisfaction woking on Roadkill even when I don't get things right. Only wish I had more good stuff to contribute to this community.

Thanks again, from hysterical Central Maryland.

DH
 
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