• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Airbox tips? Where to start?

  • Thread starter Thread starter littleroot
  • Start date Start date
L

littleroot

Guest
So I've heard the horror stories of the airbox and I know Chef and Ray would say RIP IT OUT and put pods! But since I'm not quite ready to rejet (whatever that entails) I am stuck with it for now.

But how to remove it? I have no idea. We're talking about Tom_MLC's 80GS1100E, and I'm going to need to get in there to a) sync the carbs and b) replace the fuel line which is way too short (he had a fuel filter which leaked RenoBruce removed and solved).

So is there a how-to for this thing, do's and don'ts, tips and tricks?

Please advise.

Thank you again, so, much.
-Bob
 
Last edited:
why would you need to remove the air box to synch the carbs? also can you not replace the fuel line with the box in place?
 
Really? OK, well, I just remember seeing the fuel line disappear into a dark area just before the airbox and I thought all the line connections for sync were on the rear side.
 
i wasn't saying, i was asking as well..i wouldn't think removing the airbox is nessecary to synch the carbs. the vacuum ports are on the inlet stubs and adjusters should be accessible.
maybe the fuel hose, it might be a bit fiddly but i reckon you could do it without removing the air box.....i maybe wrong of course.:-\\\
 
Agemax said:
i wasn't saying, i was asking as well..i wouldn't think removing the airbox is nessecary to synch the carbs. the vacuum ports are on the inlet stubs and adjusters should be accessible.
maybe the fuel hose, it might be a bit fiddly but i reckon you could do it without removing the air box.....i maybe wrong of course.:-\\\
Click to expand...

OK, no worries. I will try to get a picture up tonight
 
Hi Bob,

You definitely do not want to remove the airbox to sync the carbs. It's difficult but I can get to the fuel inlet on my carbs to replace the fuel line, between the #2 and #3 carbs, without removing the airbox. I imagine it's a little tighter on the GS1100 but take off the tank and seat to see what's necessary. Go from there.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi Bob,

You definitely do not want to remove the airbox to sync the carbs. It's difficult but I can get to the fuel inlet on my carbs to replace the fuel line, between the #2 and #3 carbs, without removing the airbox. I imagine it's a little tighter on the GS1100 but take off the tank and seat to see what's necessary. Go from there.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

OK, will do!

Thanks
 
You can get a new fuel hose on there with everything in situ (except the tank and seat). If you give the new hose a little wipe with silicon spray on the inside it will help it slide on at the carbs more easily.
 
hampshirehog said:
You can get a new fuel hose on there with everything in situ (except the tank and seat). If you give the new hose a little wipe with silicon spray on the inside it will help it slide on at the carbs more easily.
Click to expand...

It will be hassle prone at best, especially if there's a hose clamp on it.
It will take a very long set of needle nose pliers to open the clamp if it doesn't have the screw type. Problem is the location, it's down in the "hole" behind and below one of the mounting brackets.
Once it's off though, getting a new one on shouldn't be that hard if you use something (a wire coat hanger) to guide the new one over the nipple, but then you got to get that clamp on there. Should be fun.
 
sedelen said:
It will be hassle prone at best, especially if there's a hose clamp on it.
It will take a very long set of needle nose pliers to open the clamp if it doesn't have the screw type. Problem is the location, it's down in the "hole" behind and below one of the mounting brackets.
Once it's off though, getting a new one on shouldn't be that hard if you use something (a wire coat hanger) to guide the new one over the nipple, but then you got to get that clamp on there. Should be fun.
Click to expand...


Hate to do it so I will probably leave as is... Or go through the hassle of removing the air box, which i am still not sure how to do
 
In order to remove the air box you first need to remove the carbs. And if you remove the carbs it is easy to replace the fuel line. So just remove the carbs and replace the fuel line then replace the carbs. Leave the air box in place and you won't have to rejet. It is a tight squeeze to get the carbs in and out, really a PIA but everyone one here with that bike that does there own maintenance has done it. So that myth bust's the theory that it is impossible . And No you can not get a good sync. on the carbs with out the airbox , or pods and a jet kit, as the bike will not run in those conditions. In order to get a sync. it has to run. Good Luck :)
 
Last edited:
littleroot said:
So I've heard the horror stories of the airbox and I know Chef and Ray would say RIP IT OUT and put pods! But since I'm not quite ready to rejet (whatever that entails) I am stuck with it for now.

But how to remove it? I have no idea. We're talking about Tom_MLC's 80GS1100E, and I'm going to need to get in there to a) sync the carbs and b) replace the fuel line which is way too short (he had a fuel filter which leaked RenoBruce removed and solved).

So is there a how-to for this thing, do's and don'ts, tips and tricks?

Please advise.

Thank you again, so, much.
-Bob
Click to expand...

If your fuel line is just too short but otherwise good, you could just put a feed through barbed nipple in line (splice) with another section of fuel line to the petcock. The only way I would think you'd be able to change out that fuel line otherwise would be to remove the carbs. You can get these in different sizes at your local Ace Hardware store. I would use the largest size that would fit.
 
sedelen said:
If your fuel line is just too short but otherwise good, you could just put a feed through barbed nipple in line (splice) with another section of fuel line to the petcock. The only way I would think you'd be able to change out that fuel line otherwise would be to remove the carbs. You can get these in different sizes at your local Ace Hardware store. I would use the largest size that would fit.
Click to expand...


I wondered about this - worried it was Mickey Mouse but if they are proven I am game. Thanks!
 
hjfisk said:
In order to remove the air box you first need to remove the carbs. And if you remove the carbs it is easy to replace the fuel line. So just remove the carbs and replace the fuel line then replace the carbs. Leave the air box in place and you won't have to rejet. It is a tight squeeze to get the carbs in and out, really a PIA but everyone one here with that bike that does there own maintenance has done it. So that myth bust's the theory that it is impossible . And No you can not get a good sync. on the carbs with out the airbox , or pods and a jet kit, as the bike will not run in those conditions. In order to get a sync. it has to run. Good Luck :)
Click to expand...

So the process is first remove the boots, the loosen the air box clamps, scoot the carbs forward just enough to get to the fuel line?

Thanks
 
littleroot said:
I wondered about this - worried it was Mickey Mouse but if they are proven I am game. Thanks!
Click to expand...

As long as you ensure the hole in the fitting is at least as big as the hole in the stock size fuel line you shouldn't have any problems with impeding the gas flow. Just make sure it's clamped good so it doesn't suck any air or have any leaks, and make sure you don't have any kinks in your fuel line. You can save yourself the hassle of replacing the fuel line until the time you pull off the carbs, unless you feel you really need to do that.
 
hjfisk said:
In order to remove the air box you first need to remove the carbs. And if you remove the carbs it is easy to replace the fuel line. So just remove the carbs and replace the fuel line then replace the carbs. Leave the air box in place and you won't have to rejet. It is a tight squeeze to get the carbs in and out, really a PIA but everyone one here with that bike that does there own maintenance has done it. Good Luck :)
Click to expand...

If you proceed to go this route you will get a real education on anger management! :eek:
 
Take the bolts out of the battery box. It isnt a lot of room but as you wll see, every little bit helps. All of this is assuming that your manifolds & carb boots arent as hard as a rock. If they are replace them or leave it alone
 
Another good reason to use the stock setup: Motion Pro junk

2013-03-31163220-1_zps67dd74cf.jpg


I was lucky it was not in there very tight and was able to use an easy out


OOPS! Wrong thread!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top