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Ammunition Case as Hard bags

  • Thread starter Thread starter GQROD
  • Start date Start date
Just looking at the pics again, why wouldn't you mount the bags up a little higher? Say with the top of the box even with the bottom of the seat, at that height they wouldn't bother the passenger. It would be an easy modification to your existing rack, then you could run from your footpeg to the grab rail under the seat.
I see that you have a spot to mount a third box behind the bike, I like that.

Good question,
I realized that i wanted to keep everything as stock as possible so that i would not have to cut up the frame or cut the plastic etc and this meant that the passenger had to have enough space under the grab handle for movement and for placement of her feet on the peg.

So this and that bags of any shape placed too high just looked to funky and awkward to me so i decided this was the best height for my needs, especially when it comes to handling, being lower the bike does not feel like it's going to tip over on me at stop lights, it's balanced pretty well in this position.

It's as low as possible with decent ground clearance and most importantly it does not look like it's top heavy.

You have a good suggestion however and many riders like their bags much higher for better ground clearance, i just decided it looked and functioned better for me at this height.

Yes i made it possible to mount a box in the rear, either box size will now fit in the rear however i found that having a long narrow box in the rear for things like fishing poles ( i don't really fish ) or tubes etc would be beneficial.

What i wanted most was cost effective, modular utility from these bags and the bike itself.

Thanks for the input i appreciate your thoughts on this project.
 
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Hmmm...
I like the work you are doing. Not really my style but style is up to the owner. I can't wait entil you are done. NICE work. I like that ALL of these bikes don't look the same. :D


Thanks, i know the purists hate me for this and the windshield i made, but it's a matter of cost versus creativity, if i can make something work for me cheaper and/or it looks better to me than other options then that's what i'll do.

It's understandable that these boxes are not to everyone's taste, ( that is what $1000.00 abs hard bags are for as well as $80.00 nylon bags ) i merely decided to use them because they were dirt cheap, durable, water/weather proof and could hold a lot of stuff.

Being steel it lends itself to making changes by cutting and welding the boxes to make different shapes or frenching turn signal lights etc, without the added costs of special welding equipment.

I think the most important thing anyone can take away from this project is to be inspired to do their own bike better, cheaper or faster.

After all the whole point of this forum to gain insight on others projects and try to find an easy, cheaper way of accomplishing your goals for your ride making it unique and functional for your particular style of riding.

I appreciate everyone's advice, opinions and suggestions and thank you most of all for your honesty!!
 
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Painted the mounting frame and spacers with Dupli Color universal black gloss, still needs to be sanded and clear coated.

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Wet sanded the boxes with 400 grit.

Still have to do more glazing putty work since the boxes old finish was not in great shape.

Then i'll start applying the first coat of urethane 2k fill and sand primer.
 
I'm using a 2 part glazing putty which is far better than the kind you buy at wally world or auto zone bondo brand.

Those serve their purpose however when you want a quality durable paint job spend a little and get a 2 part.

It mixes just like Bondo and spreads like Bondo it's less thick though.

The 2 part does not shrink like the others which create cracks if laid on too thick.

This 2 part glazing putty also does not bleed through the primer like the others.

You can get quality work from the cheap brands with no catalyst, i have used them with good results but on this job it calls for better durability.

Bondo now has a two part glazing/putty available at auto zone for $12.99-don't know how good it is but again it has to be better than the regular stuff. The one i purchased at the paint supply was 3M and was $18.99

I'll post pics tomorrow of the progress.
 
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Been a short while since i updated this thread due mainly to the need to shop for a compressor which i have now purchased.

It's not the best out there however it does provide 8.8 CFM at 40 PSI, made for continous running, and it's 230 volt, 3 Wire ( Hot, Ground, Neutral ) 21 gallon, single stage, 3HP peak, 2HP running, oil filled.

Which means i now have to add a 230 volt circuit to my main panel and run wiring and an outlet for it.

It will not run air tools of any decent size but it should be perfect for spraying small jobs without hassle.

And it was on sale for $ 159.00 at Harbor Freight. They also have a 115 volt model with a little less CFM 7.0 at 40 PSI but i opted for the higher CFM model 8.8 CFM at 40 PSI.

clear.gif


I'll post pics and update once i have made progess.

clear.gif
 
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WHEW !! :) finally finished installing the wiring for the 230 volt compressor.

Also installed a cut off switch for it as well as an additional 20 amp outlet for my flux core welder with room to add an additional outlet for bench top power tools feeding from this outlet.

This small outlet box may have to be changed for a bigger one to accomodate the extra wires and pigtails needed for grounding the metal box ( per NEC code ) for the additional outlet. ( down the road )

Both are separate 12/2 Romex lines ( yellow sheath in the attic ).

Each feeding their own breaker in the attic over the garage, routed through studs with separate holes ( code says one hole is good for two groups of wiring but why not do it right? ) (and nail plates covering wire over the stud since 1 1/4" distance is not always easy to maintain from wire groups in holes on 2X4 studs( Per NEC code ) into metal junction boxes grounded with pigtails to all outlets ( GFCI Breaker protected on 115V line outlet), 230V DPST switch, and junction box conductors affixed 12 inches from the junction boxes to the stud ( per NEC code ).

Upon entering the garage you have EMT conduit with 12 guage THWN stranded wire running through it to the panel and the outlets and switches. At all service points ( elbows, junction boxes, outlets, switch boxes-the white wire ( normally used as a Neutral in 115V applications ) for 230V is marked as HOT with eletrical tape spiral wound to 3"( per NEC code )

Everything is done to NEC code ! Safety Safety Safety FIRST !

Now i can start shooting some primer......
 
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Garage Wiring Pics

Garage Wiring Pics

Finally got some pics check out the rest in my signature link to photobucket.

230VGarageWiring-09.jpg




230VGarageWiring-12.jpg


230VGarageWiring-07.jpg
 
personally I'm a little anal about my welds so I clean up any weld that i can get my grinder on if it needs it. A lot of time I dont need to but then again, I'm running solid wire not flux-core so it can come out really nicely without any slag. anyway.. why didn't you bother cleaning everything up so you can take off your 'bags' without having exposed welds??
 
You make a good point however,

I cleaned up as much as i could get my grinder into. And although i'm anal about welds when it comes to penetration this is not a trailer queen show bike.

Plus it's always going to have bags on it wether it's the small ones or the large ones so the areas with welds showing on the frame will always be covered. It really does not look pretty with the frame exposed clean welds or not.

A $1000.00 TIG set up would give me welds to drool over but for it's intended purpose it's best to keep things practical in terms of skill set and budget.
 
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Got the compressor in it's new home near the outlet and tested it, works well......." Houston we have a go for throttle up ! "
 
Got a chance to test the spray gun with the new compressor, this compressor is PERFECT for spraying an ENTIRE CAR.

Yes it will run continiously but it designed for this specific purpose being oil filled. ( no belt drive though ), it is pretty quiet all things considered too.

Plenty of air flow and pressure holds steady, all this for an under $200.00 compressor brand new and a $19.98 siphon feed spray gun from Wal-Mart ! ( don't knock me for being frugal times are hard ! )

I highly recommend this compressor for those looking for the least expensive way to shoot paint. DA's and impact wrenches probably won't work well with such a small model.

But my needs are more for spraying since i'll be painting my bike, two cars and a mini van in the near future.

I also decided to run more wiring for the 115V line and replace the duplex outlet with a four outlet box on the existing wall and run wire for another four outlet box down further near where my bench tools are, DEFINETLY worth all the time and effort to set this all up.
 
DEFINETLY worth all the time and effort to set this all up.


Having the right setup makes working on stuff 50x times better. I have turned my basement into a workshop but since the walls leak and I'm only renting, I haven't done anything that's permanent. Don't forget about having ample lighting while you're at it. Next thing you know, you're going to have all your friends wanting to use your garage to work on their projects!!
 
Got a chance to test the spray gun with the new compressor, this compressor is PERFECT for spraying an ENTIRE CAR.

Yes it will run continiously but it designed for this specific purpose being oil filled. ( no belt drive though ), it is pretty quiet all things considered too.

Plenty of air flow and pressure holds steady, all this for an under $200.00 compressor brand new and a $19.98 siphon feed spray gun from Wal-Mart ! ( don't knock me for being frugal times are hard ! )

I highly recommend this compressor for those looking for the least expensive way to shoot paint. DA's and impact wrenches probably won't work well with such a small model.

But my needs are more for spraying since i'll be painting my bike, two cars and a mini van in the near future.

I also decided to run more wiring for the 115V line and replace the duplex outlet with a four outlet box on the existing wall and run wire for another four outlet box down further near where my bench tools are, DEFINETLY worth all the time and effort to set this all up.
I think you overestimate the air requirements when using impact wrenches. If you're not running them continuously (who does) or attempting to supply air for several tools run at the same time (who does again), then your compressor is more than adequate.

I doubt my compressor is any larger than yours and I have no problem running any tools - from impact to blast. You're not supplying air for many mechanics in a business - just yourself. You should be good.
 
I think you overestimate the air requirements when using impact wrenches. If you're not running them continuously (who does) or attempting to supply air for several tools run at the same time (who does again), then your compressor is more than adequate.

I doubt my compressor is any larger than yours and I have no problem running any tools - from impact to blast. You're not supplying air for many mechanics in a business - just yourself. You should be good.

I heard and read horror stories about what to expect and having to get a 80 gallon monster just to shoot paint and air tools ( air tools i never use ) so i focused my efforts on finding something that would have enough cfm to run the spray gun.

At 90PSI this compressor only has 3.5 CFM so i'm not sure how well it would do for tools other than the stapler or nailer.

I'm glad to hear i'm not expecting too much from my set up thanks!
 
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Having the right setup makes working on stuff 50x times better. I have turned my basement into a workshop but since the walls leak and I'm only renting, I haven't done anything that's permanent. Don't forget about having ample lighting while you're at it. Next thing you know, you're going to have all your friends wanting to use your garage to work on their projects!!


LOL :eek: You are defienetly right about that, my neighbor very very nice guy is always working on his truck so i help him out when i can.

Seems like you have done a lot considering it's not permanent though!

And i agree the better the equipment the easier the work and the better the job will come out.

I have to do the best i can with what i have until things get better which is why some of the work is not always perfect but workable.
 
I heard and read horror stories about what to expect and having to get a 80 gallon monster just to shoot paint and air tools ( air tools i never use ) so i focused my efforts on finding something that would have enough cfm to run the spray gun.

At 90PSI this compressor only has 3.5 CFM so i'm not sure how well it would do for tools other than the stapler or nailer.

I'm glad to hear i'm not expecting too much from my set up thanks!
That's the compressor output, not the output from the storage tank. You'll be able to run air tools, just not continuously. You'll be fine.
 
Pic of $19.98 Gun i'll be using picked it up at Wally World, it's a convertable gun from Bleeder to Non bleeder, only fluid adjustment no air adjustment. But it will work for me ( painted four other cars with this gun ).

Pic also shows air regulator i picked up at Harbor Freight, $5.99, and a water filter picked up at auto body paint supply place $7.00, or $8.00 for two at PPG supplier. Both must haves !

If you can afford a better set up then definetly do it, however if you are on a budget then this is as cheap as it gets next to spray bombing.

Still can't shoot primer due to rain all week will update once progress is made.

P1010069JPG.jpg



I mentioned earlier i might go with a larger box for the 115V line and i did i also added another 4 outlet box down the line to the work bench for the bench top power tools, MUCH better this way.

P1010070JPG.jpg



An outlet strip would have been better but these are far more expensive than an outlet and box!

P1010071JPG.jpg
 
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