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Another 1100 swingarm to 78 750 question

  • Thread starter Thread starter WilliamK
  • Start date Start date
W

WilliamK

Guest
The most common way to accomplish this swap, it appears, has been to drill out the pivot bosses to 16mm to accept the 1100 bolt. But then the bolt needs to be cut to length and then the threads extended on the shaft. The other way discussed was to have replacement spacers machined so the original 14mm bolt can be used. I found this on ebay from UK. 16MM OD X 14MM ID (1MM WALL) 316 SEAMLESS STAINLESS STEEL TUBE X 500MM Cutting this to the correct length so it fits between the frame bosses and then inserting the tube thru the stock 1100 pivot before lifting into place would provide the spacing needed to allow the use of the 14mm bolt. It would basically change the OD of the 750 bolt from 14mm to 16mm. The stock 1100 spacers and bearings would still be used and the bearings ride on the spacers so hardness shouldn't be and issue. Can anyone say why this wouldn't work? $30 bucks for 20 inches of tube and one diy cut. The only issue I can think of is these need to be slip fit.

Thanks,
Bill K
 
It seems like it would work. The tricky part will be holding the spacer sleeve to cut it to length. Maybe use the pivot bolt as a mandrel and use tubing cutters... Give it a try and tell us how it works. Good-luck
 
it would need to be a precision fit. the tube you buy would not be made to precision tolerances. It would work, but you would have to have the tube precision made by a machine shop. probably wont cost much more than $30 to have one made.
 
$200? Care to elaborate? Sorry to "thread jack" but i am doing the same swap......
 
TeamNeal said:
$200? Care to elaborate? Sorry to "thread jack" but i am doing the same swap......
Click to expand...

Yeah, I tried drilling out the swing arm pivot bolt bushings on the frame. WHAT FRIGGING mistake that was. Had very good bike mechanic friend of mine fix my f**k up. He had to cut out the bushings and I had some new ones made at a machine shop and he welded them back in. Looked about as factory as you could get. Worked out great. Oh yeah went from 14mm to 16mm bolt. Between his cost and the machine shop it was in the $200 range lol. I think if I had used a hand operated reamer it would have been okay...live and learn.
 
Or you could make a set of reducer sleeves to fit in the swing-arm. Then you can use the GS750's bolt, bushings, bearings and spacer. Simpler and far less risk of stuffing something up..

Picture 1

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Yikes! I was just looking for reamers... but i might just turn some reducer sleeves to use 750 hardware. I think altering the frame means no going back to original equipment as well as weakening structural integrity of the thin weld-in bung for the pivot bolt.
 
TeamNeal said:
Yikes! I was just looking for reamers... but i might just turn some reducer sleeves to use 750 hardware. I think altering the frame means no going back to original equipment as well as weakening structural integrity of the thin weld-in bung for the pivot bolt.
Click to expand...

Actually, I think my new pivot bushings are way stronger then the factory ones were. The guy did a super nice job on them.
 
Postman_pat,
I thought about doing that. The 1100 swingarm is 33mm on the hub. You would need a 2mm walled sleeve to reduce to 29mm for the 750 bearings. What material did you use for the sleeves? Did you or the shop install them with the new bearings?

Thanks,]
Bill K
 
WilliamK said:
Postman_pat,
I thought about doing that. The 1100 swingarm is 33mm on the hub. You would need a 2mm walled sleeve to reduce to 29mm for the 750 bearings. What material did you use for the sleeves? Did you or the shop install them with the new bearings?

Thanks,]
Bill K
Click to expand...

I made and installed them myself - the sleeves were machined to tolerances compatible with a light to medium transition fit. Used a hot air gun to expand the swing-arm pivot tube slightly, then slipped in the sleeves while still hot. When everything cooled, I had a good, firm fit.

No special materials required. I just used mild steel for the sleeves, but you could really use anything - aluminium, bronze, stainless. Dimensions are more critical than the materials used.
 
Last edited:
mrbill5491 said:
Actually, I think my new pivot bushings are way stronger then the factory ones were. The guy did a super nice job on them.
Click to expand...

I just spoke with a really cool engine builder/machinist and he is going to turn some steel sleeves 1mm wall thickness to press into the 1100 spacers. That way I can use my 750 pivot bolt.
 
If the bearing is the same part number for the 750 as it is the 1100, just use the 750 bearing sleeve out of old arm in the 1100 arm?
Thats what I did for my GT750 to GS1100 arm conversion....
 
TeamNeal said:
I just spoke with a really cool engine builder/machinist and he is going to turn some steel sleeves 1mm wall thickness to press into the 1100 spacers. That way I can use my 750 pivot bolt.
Click to expand...

Sounds like that would work nicely.
 
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