Another Aussie GS rebuild - GS1100G

[Guest]

Lookin' real good Jimmy! And yes, love the Tranzac reverse mega's... although I'm a little biased of course

And don't worry, I missed a bit when painting my front wheel for the same reason, although fortunately noone's noticed yet...

 

[JimmyR]

These are my new fenders. I really like the rear one but wasn't so sure about the front. So I mocked it up for a photo and actually I am starting to like it. It doesn't hide much of the lovely fat tyre!

I even tried to capture how cool the new clocks look with the power on. Of course the pics don't really do them justice but I couldn't be bothered setting up lights to shoot it properly!

 

[Guest]

Very tasty... and yes that front guard looks good... as do the clocks

 

[JimmyR]

Thanks mate! A funny thing happened today while I was testing things after reinstalling the front indicators. As soon as I tightened the left switch unit (the one with the indicator switches, horn button and hi/lo beam switch) to the handlebar the horn would sound. I spent ages looking for shorts inside the housing (short circuits, not a pair of shorts), insulating things, rearranging wires - nothing worked. As soon as I tightened the screws to clamp it to the handlebars the horn would sound.

So as I was watching really closely to see what might be shorting out I noticed a few tiny sparks between the bars and the housing. For some reason the switch housing was shorting directly to the bars where the paint on the inside surface of the housing had worn. So I wrapped a little gaffa tape around the bars to insulate them from the housing and it's fixed! Weird! I might redo it with some electrical tap because the gaffa is a bit thick. But it works.

 

[Guest]

Wow that is weird! I thought there'd be no chance of that happening... is something in the control block not sitting right maybe?

 

[Good Times]

It's lookin great Jimmy! Keep it up.

 

[Tim Tom]

I don't think I've commented on this build yet, but I do have to say it's awesome. I love the raw brushed look that the forks, headlight & ears, gauges and bars bring in. Then the nice fat black tire and wheel to break it up. I say keep the fender raw alloy and it would be perfect. This build is way to clean for texture paint, its begging for some deep deep gloss black body work.

If you want help mocking up some paint schemes shoot me a PM, I did some digital mock-ups for quite a few members now. Pete and Redneck included, and I'd be happy to do some for you.

Cheers and keep up the excellent work!

 

[Guest]

I don't think I've commented on this build yet, but I do have to say it's awesome. I love the raw brushed look that the forks, headlight & ears, gauges and bars bring in. Then the nice fat black tire and wheel to break it up. I say keep the fender raw alloy and it would be perfect. This build is way to clean for texture paint, its begging for some deep deep gloss black body work.

If you want help mocking up some paint schemes shoot me a PM, I did some digital mock-ups for quite a few members now. Pete and Redneck included, and I'd be happy to do some for you.

Cheers and keep up the excellent work!

I can highly recommend Tims mock ups, he helped me decide on the scheme for my 450 Thanks again Tim!

 

[JimmyR]

Thanks for all the encouragement guys - much appreciated! This bike isn't so much a hobby at the moment, more like an obsession.

Today was spent tidying up random things. I wasn't happy with my wiring so tidied it a bit and also cut a slot in the back of the battery box which will act as both drainage and a channel for routing the wiring coming up from the stator, ignition, etc. Because the Shorai battery is shallower I can put padding/spacing material in the back two corners and leave a space for wiring. I'll have to take a pic to explain.

Also got the seals in place for the rear brake so it's installed now. Those brake seals are tricky! Once you know where they are supposed to go it's not so bad but mine were originally so degraded it was hard to tell what was going on.

Also tried to set the timing on the Dynatek ignition, but I think I need to email them for help! Too hard to explain here, but I'm sure I'll get it eventually.

I have ordered a tappet depressor and a Suzuki feeler gauge set because I intend to teach myself how to set the tappets. I had intended just telling the tappets sad stories about my life but they wouldn't get depressed. So the "special tool" it is. Has anyone else noticed that the Suzuki manual is full of references to "the special tool"?

 

[Guest]

Thanks for all the encouragement guys - much appreciated! This bike isn't so much a hobby at the moment, more like an obsession.

Today was spent tidying up random things. I wasn't happy with my wiring so tidied it a bit and also cut a slot in the back of the battery box which will act as both drainage and a channel for routing the wiring coming up from the stator, ignition, etc. Because the Shorai battery is shallower I can put padding/spacing material in the back two corners and leave a space for wiring. I'll have to take a pic to explain.

Also got the seals in place for the rear brake so it's installed now. Those brake seals are tricky! Once you know where they are supposed to go it's not so bad but mine were originally so degraded it was hard to tell what was going on.

Also tried to set the timing on the Dynatek ignition, but I think I need to email them for help! Too hard to explain here, but I'm sure I'll get it eventually.

I have ordered a tappet depressor and a Suzuki feeler gauge set because I intend to teach myself how to set the tappets. I had intended just telling the tappets sad stories about my life but they wouldn't get depressed. So the "special tool" it is. Has anyone else noticed that the Suzuki manual is full of references to "the special tool"?

Hahahahaha nice... you can't keep a good GS down you know! Hahaha

Plenty of guys on here run the Dynatek ignition so you'll likely get some good help. I have one in mine but it's not all fancy like yours, it uses the mechanical advance still. I still love it but

Just be careful with the tappet depressor as they're known to slip off allowing the shim to slam into the cam lobe. There is a technique apparently, but stick with the tried and true cable tie method myself, although I haven't tried the depressor at all.

 

[Good Times]

Thanks for all the encouragement guys - much appreciated! This bike isn't so much a hobby at the moment, more like an obsession.

Today was spent tidying up random things. I wasn't happy with my wiring so tidied it a bit and also cut a slot in the back of the battery box which will act as both drainage and a channel for routing the wiring coming up from the stator, ignition, etc. Because the Shorai battery is shallower I can put padding/spacing material in the back two corners and leave a space for wiring. I'll have to take a pic to explain.

Also got the seals in place for the rear brake so it's installed now. Those brake seals are tricky! Once you know where they are supposed to go it's not so bad but mine were originally so degraded it was hard to tell what was going on.

Also tried to set the timing on the Dynatek ignition, but I think I need to email them for help! Too hard to explain here, but I'm sure I'll get it eventually.

I have ordered a tappet depressor and a Suzuki feeler gauge set because I intend to teach myself how to set the tappets. I had intended just telling the tappets sad stories about my life but they wouldn't get depressed. So the "special tool" it is. Has anyone else noticed that the Suzuki manual is full of references to "the special tool"?

The Tappet depressor is a great tool. I am currently working with my clearances as well. Just need to get one more shim in tomorrow when I get time. Check out my thread and you will learn from my process.

1) Get the spread sheet from Steve.
2) Never turn the motor with a shim out of the bucket.
3) Join the shim club in the GS services forum.

I am glad I did all three of these.

Here's my thread.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=187537

Good luck!

 

[Guest]

The Tappet depressor is a great tool. I am currently working with my clearances as well. Just need to get one more shim in tomorrow when I get time. Check out my thread and you will learn from my process.

1) Get the spread sheet from Steve.
2) Never turn the motor with a shim out of the bucket.
3) Join the shim club in the GS services forum.

I am glad I did all three of these.

Here's my thread.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=187537

Good luck!

+1 on the valve spreadsheet! Forgot about that even though I use it myself...

Not sure how well the shim club will work over here in Aus, but I've been using http://www.precisionshims.com.au/a/Precision-Shims-Australia for mine.

 

[Guest]

+I've been using http://www.precisionshims.com.au/a/Precision-Shims-Australia for mine.

How much are they , Pete?

 

[JimmyR]

Thanks for all the guidance. This place is truly amazing. I have discovered from the guy at Dynatek that my bike is one of two (apparently) that never had a timing plate thing (Suzuki part # 33371-45001). So I have ordered one from my very helpful local dealer and it will cost me all of Aust$10. But it has to come from Japan so will be a couple of weeks. Otherwise I have no way of knowing where to set the crank trigger.

The other thing which confuses me is the cam chain. I know I have to change mine as it rattled like crazy when I rode the bike home. It almost drowned out the engine! Everyone says that you have to pull out the crankshaft to replace the cam chain as it is all in one loop. But my Suzuki replacement cam chain is not a continuous loop, it has a joiner link. So I can break the existing chain and use it to feed the new chain in place and join it up, as long as I either have the right tools or know someone who does! So why does everyone - including the Suzuki manual - insist otherwise?

I am much happier working on electrical stuff. I feel more comfortable working that stuff out. Engines are a dark world of mystery to me.

 

[JimmyR]

Pics! Here is the battery box. When you see it looking from the engine side you can see the slot cut into it which makes room for the wiring. It's still a bit rough - I will be tidying a bit more before it goes to powdercoat. You can see at the top edge the packing that pushes the battery away from the wiring. Again that will be tidied soon.

When you see the rear side of the battery box you can see the insert piece which will be finished in brushed raw aluminium while the box will be texture black. You can also see the little tray above and to the rear of it. This holds the fusebox, signal relay and ignition module. I'm redoing this tray and it will fit better very soon. It will butt up against the battery box so everything will be very neat.

 

[gearhead13]

Thanks for all the guidance. This place is truly amazing. I have discovered from the guy at Dynatek that my bike is one of two (apparently) that never had a timing plate thing (Suzuki part # 33371-45001). So I have ordered one from my very helpful local dealer and it will cost me all of Aust$10. But it has to come from Japan so will be a couple of weeks. Otherwise I have no way of knowing where to set the crank trigger.

The other thing which confuses me is the cam chain. I know I have to change mine as it rattled like crazy when I rode the bike home. It almost drowned out the engine! Everyone says that you have to pull out the crankshaft to replace the cam chain as it is all in one loop. But my Suzuki replacement cam chain is not a continuous loop, it has a joiner link. So I can break the existing chain and use it to feed the new chain in place and join it up, as long as I either have the right tools or know someone who does! So why does everyone - including the Suzuki manual - insist otherwise?

I am much happier working on electrical stuff. I feel more comfortable working that stuff out. Engines are a dark world of mystery to me.

I guess we are opposites then I hate electrical but love working on the guts of an engine. And for me, engine work comes first, before any cosmetic stuff.
If you are going to replace the chain that way, make sure it is the rivet type, not a master link. But, unless your bike has 100,000+ on it I doubt you would need a new chain, just cleaning and rebuilding the adjuster, IMO.
Instructions can be found on Basscliffs site:
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

 

[Guest]

Your electrics are going to look very tidy, I can tell...

Camchain... I think you'll find that originally the replacement camchains were indeed a continuous chain but in time it became obvious that the link type isn't a problem - in that they're as reliable (and obviously it's easier to replace the link type chains).

+1 on everything Gearhead said about the camchain.

Best measure the chain stretch before you throw money on it...

 

[ged]

Hi JimmyR every thing looks great. I just got my tappet depressing tool from Z1 in the States with a bag of Stainless steel screws for the engine. The tools are pretty dear on ebay but I found Z1 to have the cheapest price. I had also been thinking of what Pete said and use the zip tie method but I just didnt like the idea of poking things around in small holes. Knowing my luck it would either get stuck or drop off.
Anyway I am waiting for some spike strips and a seat cover that I will be working on next until I get my ring sorted out.



Regards

GED

 

[JimmyR]

Well my bike has around 90 000kms on it so I wouldn't be surprised if the chain needs replacing!

Yeah I get the impression that a lot of guys don't like working on electrics. I actually don't mind so much because (a) I am very anal about tidiness, and (b) I taught myself how to make tube guitar amps a few years back. I am a guitarist who loves getting good tones but tube amps are expensive. But you can build 'em yourself these days for not too much $$ because of the interwebs. I've built probably around 20 or so amps now and have enough! That's partly why I have gotten into bike building - I get bored and see too many programmes on tv about building bikes.

So wiring isn't such a big deal. When I first started working out how to wire up the bike I had to forget about the hum created by earth loops - I suspect that bikes aren't quite so fussy... I'm a bit wary about putting ignition wires next to lighting wires though.

 

[Guest]

How much are they , Pete?

Either $9.50 or $9.95 (can't remember now) each plus postage and I typically get them the next day up from Melbourne. The guy has no dramas shipping one or two either.

Just fill out the online quote form and he rings me in the morning... easy!

Jimmy: that's lookin' real good with the battery box and electrics tray there. I made my own tray as well except it's just one flat piece of 2.5mm alu. with everything bolted underneath.

I got a camchain off eBay and it was continuous, but like the other guys said these days I believe it's not necessary. So much easier with a link! Fortunately I rebuilt my engine so there was no dramas there for me...

Also, I'm glad you like working on electrical stuff, I have limited tolerance for it... did some electronics at college and have always done my own in cars like stereos etc. but I always hit a point where I think enough! And have to move on...