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Another runaway carb issue: resurrected 1980 GS 1000G

  • Thread starter Thread starter Roscoe
  • Start date Start date
R

Roscoe

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Update on the $250 "stored for 3 years" Seattle GS1000G, 14K miles that I picked up in June.
Finally room for it on the lift, 1984 GS750 done.
My Hannigan fairing has waited 8 years for a donor bike, always thought a G would work better than the last E (finished as the E2SN).
Oil change, tune up, tank flush and carb ultrasonic clean, new intake boots and air box boots. 3 year old Metzlers with nubs intact, no weather/age cracks.
So the fun begins.
My parts bins contributed replacing the 1984 GS750 controls with 1980 GS1000, not surprised the bloody thing now cranks over, PO said he was 'sure the 750 wiring harness would work, just never worked after that...... He had invested in rubber so I took a chance the bike would be worth the time. Helps that tank and plastics in 85% shape.
On start up, immediate runaway on choke to 6K. No throttle used. Key off.
Shake and repeat,bike wanted redline, never gave it the lust for hyper rev.
Re adjusted throttle cable to flaccid, choke cable to flaccid, restart with immediate rev toward 6500, key off.
Tomorrow will drain bowls, disconnect fuel supply, try restart and hosing down intake boots with WD40 to see if it will start. Boots rings new, but who knows.
After discussing with my BMW/Suzuki local mechanic- possibly air leak of Orings of throttle linkage, will WD40 that area next. Anyone heard of that possibility?
Rather than start a carb tear down now, will replace with my other CV quad on another 1980 that killed a deer last July.
Amazing what air leaks can do to excite ones day!:p
 
Getting ready to start my $400 1980 GS1000G in a few days. Just finished the carb rebuild but still need to extract a broken intake bolt before I can proceed. Hopefully I won't be seeing 6k+ on startup.
 
Getting ready to start my $400 1980 GS1000G in a few days. Just finished the carb rebuild but still need to extract a broken intake bolt before I can proceed. Hopefully I won't be seeing 6k+ on startup.

Wish you were closer. I have 2 spare G engines (1100 and 850) taking up space.
Save you some time. They are my harvest bin, giving up carbs for this guy.
Busted bolts are so long suffering.
Still fussing with a broken trim and tilt bolt on a Evinrude 90. They are stainless so welding a washer and nut is a challenge for a fat fingered geezer like me. Best of fortune!
:D
 
After discussing with my BMW/Suzuki local mechanic- possibly air leak of Orings of throttle linkage, will WD40 that area next. Anyone heard of that possibility?
Rather than start a carb tear down now, will replace with my other CV quad on another 1980 that killed a deer last July.
Amazing what air leaks can do to excite ones day!:p

I would pull the carbs and do a bench synch. Get them as close as possible -- backlight the carbs with perhaps a fluorescent light, so you'll see the 'crescent' shape.
 
WD 40 wont make the RPMs go up when checking for air leaks as well as starter fluid will..and starter fluid wont leave everything coated in oily chit.

I suggest you just fully tear down, dip, and rebuild the ones on there because your gonna need to sooner or later..so why not just do it and be done with them???
 
i would turn the throttle speed adjustment screw all the way out until you see air between the screw and the throttle, then in 1 or 2 turns. it was probably turned up to keep it running but you fixed the carbs and intake leaks, now it can be turned back out.
Adjusting the throttle cable has no effect on it if the adjustment knob is turned in too far
 
Actually George, the correct proceedure is to have the idle knob completely off the linkage, set the gaps on the butterflies or slides ( whichever you have ) and then just touch off the idle knob. Then in about 1 1/2 to 2 turns.

You can reliably bench sync them if theres tension on the linkage from the spring..all tension should be relaxed. ALSO, by doing it this way youve got a lot more adjustment range with the idle knob when done.
 
In Summary, get Er done!

In Summary, get Er done!

Actually George, the correct proceedure is to have the idle knob completely off the linkage, set the gaps on the butterflies or slides ( whichever you have ) and then just touch off the idle knob. Then in about 1 1/2 to 2 turns.

You can reliably bench sync them if theres tension on the linkage from the spring..all tension should be relaxed. ALSO, by doing it this way youve got a lot more adjustment range with the idle knob when done.

Gentlemen:
Cleaning off my bench tomorrow, turning on the heater, polishing up my green eyeshade.:rolleyes: (this may motivate me to rebuild the other two flat slides and another black GS one off a 80's Katana).
All your contributions have been catalogued and annotated to address this issue. I did back out idle adjustment screw completely with no help, a complete rebuild is the solution. Chuck, as always, you are spot on.
Thank you all
Dan
 
If everything is perfect, it will go to 3500 rpm or so starting on full choke. I hope you like the 1000G. They are very useful and comfortable.
 
If everything is perfect, it will go to 3500 rpm or so starting on full choke. I hope you like the 1000G. They are very useful and comfortable.

Thank you, 850 Combat
only shafty in my past was my other GS, (sorry for again waxing rhetoric with tongue firmly in cheek) 2004 R1150 GS Adventure. 6 years of joy, as some here know took me to Prudoe Bay, no support vehicle, bit over 4500 miles, 40% off-road if memory serves. My brother rode his GSA as well.
And back home to the Olympic Peninsula without breakdowns or drops.
Sweet!!!!
This GS is not as top heavy, seat height about 7 inches lower.
(The GSA had a custom off-road Hyperpro suspension with 4 inches extra height, the Dalton (ice road trucker fame) let alone the Top of the World Hwy was brutal.
Keeping this GS stock height.;)
 
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