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Anti - dive blocking plates

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Guest

Guest
I rebuilt my Forks last year and now I want to replace the anti-dive units on the forks with blocking plates. Is there any good way to do this without having to drain the fork oil?

Thanks,
Dave
 
5azzmonkey said:
Is there any good way to do this without having to drain the fork oil?

Thanks,
Dave
Click to expand...

No.

As for the plates, you need to study the oil flow pattern to make sure what kind of plate you need. For the 750 models for example, the block off plate needs a groove connecting the ports together. Without the groove the fork will stiffen up on compression damping, same as if the brake was applied and the antidive was actuated.

anti-dive001.jpg


anti-dive002.jpg
 
Nessism said:
No.

As for the plates, you need to study the oil flow pattern to make sure what kind of plate you need. For the 750 models for example, the block off plate needs a groove connecting the ports together. Without the groove the fork will stiffen up on compression damping, same as if the brake was applied and the antidive was actuated.

anti-dive001.jpg


anti-dive002.jpg
Click to expand...

Guess I'll be draining them then :eek:

Yeah the ones I have on order connect the two holes in order to let oil flow.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GS1100E-for...Parts_Accessories&hash=item460bfca53f&vxp=mtr

A bit pricey but look very nice. They are also offered in black anodized.

antidive_plate_back.jpg


antidive_plate_front.jpg


Thanks,
Dave
 
The only way to do it without draining would be to have the forks upside down.. I've done it that way (had to ship the anti-dive's that day so needed a quick fix) :lol: .

Unless you're a lot stronger than me and can lift your whole bike :p you'll have to remove the fork tubes by which point most of the work is done... :)
 
You could have just removed the brake lines and plugged the holes with plastic plugs...

antidive_1.jpg


antidive_2.jpg


Although the eBay plates are pretty sweet...:)
 
Currently I just have the anti-dive units hooked up without a brake line, but I don't like the look.
 
All you have to do is lay the forks down flat, with the anti-dives facing up. No fork oil will be lost this way. Just don't let them roll over once you remove the anti-dive. Ray.
 
I got a set, the black ones, from that guy on e-bay. Very good workmanship.
 
they do look nice, but....what was the price tag again? seems i recall 80 bucks or so?? i'll fabricate some out of some alu plate i have laying around for zero dollars and use the 80 for something that will actually improve the suspension....say, some cartridge emulators.

greg
 
I got a pair from demon speed racing for my GSXR 1100 forks.
It's a very nice product that is well finished and with a perfect fit:)
GS1000XP010-1_zps74fec571.jpg
 
$80 is a very fair price for the block-off units as fitted to John Kats bike. They are a high quality item with a perfect fit and finish that looks factory. Try getting a one off pair built to that standard at your local Engineering Shop for less than $80.
 
I ordered the plates,clean transaction, prompt shipping. They are high quality units, Haven't installed them yet as I am waiting for more parts... Not sure what the purpose of the allen screw is, other than to plug a drilled passage. Much nicer than the OEM oil leaking PDF valves.
As far as the price... under 80 bucks, good value. Labour rates around here are that much per hour at any decent machine shop.
I am into the suspension for about $1200, so "don't get cheap on me now", labour is free!
 
Salty Monk is right:)
First gen GSXR !
Beware that the 1100 and 750s had different disk sizes ( 310 vs 300) and you need to have the matching caliper.
Also the spindle diameter went from 15 to 17 mm in 1987.
The good news is that this must be the lightest production wheel ever produced for a 750/1100 bike:cool:
Most classic racing bikes use these wheels here in France.
 
Been thinking of putting one on the skunk with stock (haha not quite) fork at some stage... Replace the 2.15" x 19" 650g one. That's a 2.5" x18" rim isn't it?

Did you use the gsxr speedo drive and cable with stock GS gauges?
 
That was my first idea but...the overall width of the wheel at the axle level ( including the speedo drive) is slightly too large to fit in the std GS 1000 fork:(
I believe GregT worked around the issue by trimming the GSXR speedo drive but I don't know how it can be done?
The GSXR speedo drive is specific to this model...
The wheel is a 2.5*18 fitted with a radial 110/80*18 tire that complements the 4*18 rear wheel currently with a 160 tire ( but that's too wide for a 60 profile tire)
I'm currently using a GSXR speedometer but you could use a std GS 1000 instrument panel as the speedo cable will fit:)
Here's what it looks like:
LalandusseetGS1000XP007_zps860252e8.jpg
 
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salty_monk said:
Been thinking of putting one on the skunk with stock (haha not quite) fork at some stage... Replace the 2.15" x 19" 650g one. That's a 2.5" x18" rim isn't it?

Did you use the gsxr speedo drive and cable with stock GS gauges?
Click to expand...

I'm using the 2.75"x18" front wheel with 110/80-18 tire. Need to use a bandit speedo cable as it is long enough to go between the GSXR speedo drive and the GS speedo.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=144889&highlight=gsxr+wheels

All in all I think the speedo is about 2 mph off at 60 mph (reads a little high)
 
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