Hello again - Now that I have my rear brake master cylinder issue resolved (thanks to so many folks on this forum) I would now like to replace the front brake fluid on my 1985 GS700ES, and the brake fluid that activates anti-dive mechanism for aggressive front braking. Is the bleeding- the same (via the bleeder on the anti-dive mechanism) just as it is on the front calipers? Will squeezing the front brake lever, followed by cracking open the bleeder on the anti-dive mechanism, force fresh brake fluid through that bleeder? Kind a hard to put into words….Will the old brake fluid that comes out of the anti-dive bleeder when squeezing the front brake lever be replaced by fresh brake fluid that’s coming from the reservoir, and will that in any way introduced air into the remaining section of brake line going into the caliper? Based on the way I ride the motorcycle, I am not sure there’s a need for that anti-dive mechanism to even work. Would it cause a problem to just leave that old brake fluid in there?….. in the back of my mind I feel like it’s necessary to replace any fluid that’s old, even though that anti-dive mechanism isn’t necessary for my type of riding….The GS700ES has air assisted forks, so I’m not sure how much benefit there is to the anti-dive mechanism. As always, thank you for for your thoughts and advice !
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Anti-dive fluid bleed
- Thread starter markn
- Start date
this is from the factory supplement for the 82 750E
Off topic but kind'f on topic. Cycle World sept. 1983. We tried disconnecting the anti-dive on a staffer's personal GS1100 and found brake feel & control were improved, with no increase in Fork dive. I don't remember a change in the anti-dive from "83" to "85"... Just throwing that in there.
I believe I’ve read more posts about disabling the anti-dive system by way of a custom-made plate with a channel in it, than I have about maintaining the system as Suzuki designed it. By most reports, the anti-dive was a maintenance hassle with no real benefit.
this is from the factory supplement for the 82 750E
OK…Follow the same technique as bleeding the brake lines?…. Continue drawing fluid through the anti-dive mechanism until the dirty fluid is replaced by clean fluid, (while at the same time making sure not to allow the brake reservoir to go empty and suck-in air) My concern of course is attempting to drain the dirty brake fluid out of the anti-dive mechanism, and somehow getting air and dirty brake fluid in the main brake line itself…
The old fluid that came out of the anti-dive unit was the consistency and color of maple syrup. Not sure if it was necessary to replace it based on how the bike is ridden, but I feel better knowing it was done. On a somewhat related subject, I noticed there’s a slot formed in the gasket located under the front brake master cylinder for air transfer…..there’s also a slot formed in the master cylinder cover itself. When I removed the cover, the slot in the cover and the slot in the gasket were not lined-up together. Are the slots in the gasket and cover supposed to be lined-up, or opposite to each other for balancing purposes?
