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Anti-dive mechanism

  • Thread starter Thread starter Arfdog
  • Start date Start date
A

Arfdog

Guest
My '86 GS45o has a anti-dive mechanism on bottom of one of its forks. On this mechanism is a bleed nipple that is solidly rusted in. This bleed nipple is higher up than the bleed nipple on brake caliper. My bike appear to be diving a lot more than it used to after I put new brake fluid in yesterday, so I was wondering if perhaps there was air stuck inside the anti-dive mechanism that I can't bleed.

I am not sure whether I should try remove this bleed nipple, because if I break it, I won't be able to find a spare mechanism easily, and I don't have the equipment to drill it out.

What do you think my plan of action should be?
 
Antidive on only one of the forks?? It should be on both of the forks, or neither of the forks. Sounds like someone has done a mix-and-match job and you've got different forks on that front end. (Or there's something I've yet to learn about the '86 450.)

Well, if was my bike (but it isn't, of course) I'd be putting some penetrating oil on that rusty bleed nipple, going to bed, then putting some more on it in the morning, going to work, then giving it a decent tweak when I got home from work (or whatever you do to occupy your time).

In fact, I wouldn't be at all scared about pulling at it until it either comes out or shears off. If the latter, get a tiny 'ezy-out' and take it from there, as the nipple already has a nice hole right down the centre of it.

[You are using a ring-spanner on the nipple, aren't you, instead of an 'open-ender' spanner? Always use a ring spanner on the bleed nipples.]
 
Yep it's only on one fork. I'll take some pics tonight.

Ok thanks for the advice. I did use a ring spanner, but the nipple was so rusty, the corners of the hexagon crumbled under the smallest amount of pressure, and the nut got rounded off. I think it's been in there since 1986...

If indeed it is problematical to only have one, I should remove it completely. Will that be a big job, or can I simply plug the mechanism with some alternative to a banjo bolt?
 
I've taken some pics:

There is definitely only one on the left fork, but the forks do look like perfect matches in terms of how they look, so I'm guessing its supposed to be the way it is. Please tell me if this is wrong!

What would the best way of disconnecting the unit be, should I irrepairably damage the bleed nipple when I try remove it?

Thanks guys.

SIDE.jpg


FRONT.jpg
 
Easiest way to remove the Anti-dive!!! remove the line!!! use the Banjo bolt from the antidive unit to re-attach the single line to the caliper. Then re-bleed the brakes.

Dink
 
Arfdog said:
My '86 GS45o has a anti-dive mechanism on bottom of one of its forks. On this mechanism is a bleed nipple that is solidly rusted in. This bleed nipple is higher up than the bleed nipple on brake caliper. My bike appear to be diving a lot more than it used to after I put new brake fluid in yesterday, so I was wondering if perhaps there was air stuck inside the anti-dive mechanism that I can't bleed.

I am not sure whether I should try remove this bleed nipple, because if I break it, I won't be able to find a spare mechanism easily, and I don't have the equipment to drill it out.

What do you think my plan of action should be?
Click to expand...

Dude, you need to make a serious decision. The '86 GS 450 did NOT come with anti-dive fork(s). Furthermore all GS's (E models) that did come with anti-dive had the unit mounted on both fork legs. If you have a GS450L shaft bike it's NOT supposed to have an anti-dive. Driving that bike with only one antidive fork leg is extremely dangereous IMO. Your bike will handle poorly upon entering a corner at speed while on the brakes (one fork leg is very stiff, and the other is soft with respect to dampening). I would strongly suggest finding the correct standard fork.
 
Arfdog said:
I've taken some pics:

There is definitely only one on the left fork, but the forks do look like perfect matches in terms of how they look, so I'm guessing its supposed to be the way it is. Please tell me if this is wrong!

What would the best way of disconnecting the unit be, should I irrepairably damage the bleed nipple when I try remove it?

Thanks guys.
Click to expand...


Your configuration is perfectly OK, the anti-dive is supposed to be only on the left fork. As a matter of fact, allmost all of the eighties anti-dives where installed only on one fork.

Easy out is probably not the best option because the bleed nipple is so soft material it will be streched by easy out, and will bite itself to the threads.
Some penetrating oil and carefull heating is a better way.
 
Road_Clam said:
Dude, you need to make a serious decision. The '86 GS 450 did NOT come with anti-dive fork(s). Furthermore all GS's (E models) that did come with anti-dive had the unit mounted on both fork legs. If you have a GS450L shaft bike it's NOT supposed to have an anti-dive. Driving that bike with only one antidive fork leg is extremely dangereous IMO. Your bike will handle poorly upon entering a corner at speed while on the brakes (one fork leg is very stiff, and the other is soft with respect to dampening). I would strongly suggest finding the correct standard fork.
Click to expand...

Perhaps You are looking things through U.S. market? Remember, that they sold these bikes in many different configurations all over the world. Mine is an -84 GS450EZ, sold in Finland, and has the anti-dive only on left fork (as did my Honda VF750F). The anti-dive is balanced by different oil quantities in both forks.
IMG_2096.jpg
 
What a lovely bike, Tervo, it looks brand new!

Thanks for your replies, I will try again with heat and penetrating oil. I guess if the nipple happens to sheer, it will still be shut and not leak.

My main worry is if I do as Dink suggested and isolate the anti-dive unit, I will get air in the anti-dive mechanism, and not be able to get the air out as the bleed nipple could sheer.

Of course, if I get the nipple out, all this worrying is for nothing, and I can keep the mechanism in use as the suzuki designers intended...
 
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my gs450e 1987 has anti dive on one side aswell
picture029hu9.jpg


i recon this is something we in europe had


oh yeah soak the bleed nipple as many times as possible over aslong a period of time
use a ring spanner

i recently removed some parts off my bike i soaked stuff with wd40 for 2 weeks
a couple of the bolts that were stubborn the wd40 had only penetrated half to 2/3rds of the way down
 
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Boris, it looks like your tyres may have less than the legal tread limit on them. If I was you I'd double check to be certain before you go for a ride next time :-)
 
Boris,

You tend to ride on the railway a lot? :-s

Seems that your wheel is set up to ride on the rail quite well. 8-[


.
 
roflmao prev owner was james bond lol
i overtook the 4.15 to liverpool yesterday :-D

i was waiting for a tube after taking the old rotted tyre off
got new tube and tyre waiting to go on
will probably do some more de-skanking while ive got the wheel off again
 
Tervo said:
Perhaps You are looking things through U.S. market? Remember, that they sold these bikes in many different configurations all over the world. Mine is an -84 GS450EZ, sold in Finland, and has the anti-dive only on left fork (as did my Honda VF750F). The anti-dive is balanced by different oil quantities in both forks.
IMG_2096.jpg
Click to expand...

Well I guess I learned something new....... USA based GS's all have twin anti-dive units. I am amazed and puzzled by this new "single" anti dive system. I do not understand how varying fluid levels of fork fluid can compensate for one std fork, and one anti-dive fork.
 
Yep, first time I've seen/ heard of antidive on one fork only, too. Seems so bizarre. :?

If it gives trouble, I'd remove the antidive unit as per Dink's suggestion, try some thicker fork oil, and maybe preload the springs as well to firm things up at the front end.
 
...so if i am not wrong anti-dive in one leg, is because it has only a single disc brake...
 
WD40 is not the best for penetration (ooh err missus). Try a specific penetrating oil, there's one I've had good results with in the UK but I can't remember the name offhand.

Dan :)
 
Just to update you all. I got the nipple out with penetrating oil over a week, heat, hammering and mole grips.

I then discovered that that bleed nip is about 2mm longer than the standard brake bleed nipple, and I didn't manage to find one. So I removed anti-dive completely. The anti-dive also happened to be permanently in anti-dive mode incidentally, the piston had jammed all the way in.

I'll put it back on if I find another bleed nipple.
 
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