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Anti Rattle spring Clutch Modification....

salty_monk

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
If it's good enough for this clutch.... I can't see why we couldn't bolt ours, especially on the smaller displacement models.

Comments?

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This from Classic Bike mag (a UK rag).

Dan :)
 
I just put in hardened steel washers on each end of the springs to take up the slack. All the rattle went away.
 
I think we're talking about different springs... if not then yours are in danger of flying out into the clutch housing or crank somewhere.

You have to break the clutch basket apart to shim the springs I am talking about in order to prevent the rattle... :)
 
I think we're talking about different springs... if not then yours are in danger of flying out into the clutch housing or crank somewhere.

You have to break the clutch basket apart to shim the springs I am talking about in order to prevent the rattle... :)

I was able to compress the radial springs enough to slide in a washer into the crimped pocket that holds the spring. The washer ends up trapped in place and cannot come out. It has to be a hardened washer though so it won't deform and get ground up from wear.
 
Dan I don't see why 6mm bolts cannot be used as long as they are a good fit in both parts so when the three bolts are in place there is no play or movement between the two parts

BTW whatedition of Classic Bike was the article from?
 
It's the one from last year with the "Big 4" bike comparison with the Cooley, GS, Z1, XS1100 & Honda CB.

I wouldn't be happy with putting washers either side of those springs without pulling it apart and putting in a washer that physically can't come out (in fact this is what I have done but then I had the basket welded back together again).
Anything that you can simply compress the spring & slip into place can do the reverse & slip back out again.....

:)
 
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It's the one from last year with the "Big 4" bike comparison with the Cooley, GS, Z1, XS1100 & Honda CB.

Thanks Dan. I am going to do the same conversion with my bike. I have just had a clutch basket sent across from the U.S. to have modified, but when I checked it the springs were really tight and the basket appeared to have very little use and wear. So I will try it like it is and if it still rattles I will take the one I have pulled out to the machinist to have it welded or I might even try using bolts as in the article you posted on the Yamaha.

Anything that you can simply compress the spring & slip into place can do the reverse & slip back out again.....

And do it at 6 or 7 thousand revs as well. Imagine if the washer got jammed between the primary gears. What damage that would do.
 
Don,

The one in my 750 was like that & hasn't started rattling yet... I think I spread them a bit more with a screwdriver before I put it in.

The one in my thousand probably had 3-4mm of play at the end of the springs & that one was loud.

Only thing I can see with bolts is if they can take the shear forces of the torque of the clutch but I don't really see how they would be subject to a lot of force....

The forces should still be going through the (now) tapped rivet & the bolts are only acting to stop the plate separating (i.e. coming outwards) which should be a fairly small force.

Dan :)
 
It's the one from last year with the "Big 4" bike comparison with the Cooley, GS, Z1, XS1100 & Honda CB.

I wouldn't be happy with putting washers either side of those springs without pulling it apart and putting in a washer that physically can't come out (in fact this is what I have done but then I had the basket welded back together again).
Anything that you can simply compress the spring & slip into place can do the reverse & slip back out again.....

:)

No, it can't. It is under load and compressed when the bike is running and is still trapped in place when it's not.. I put it in my GS1000 with a Yosh 1085 kit and ran it that way for over 200K mi. It stopped the rattle and never came out. It saves you from splitting the clutch. There is no difference whether you do it like I did or split the clutch. It ends up in the same place under the same conditions. If you are going to go through all the trouble to split the clutch, the right thing to do is pay for new springs that have a higher rate or are a little longer.
 
No, it can't. It is under load and compressed when the bike is running and is still trapped in place when it's not.. I put it in my GS1000 with a Yosh 1085 kit and ran it that way for over 200K mi. It stopped the rattle and never came out. It saves you from splitting the clutch. There is no difference whether you do it like I did or split the clutch. It ends up in the same place under the same conditions. If you are going to go through all the trouble to split the clutch, the right thing to do is pay for new springs that have a higher rate or are a little longer.

The only thing with that is the springs are not available as a separate item on the parts list. Do you know of a source?
 
The only thing with that is the springs are not available as a separate item on the parts list. Do you know of a source?

You go yo the source. Find a spring manufacturer. Find a maker of racing hubs that will sell the springs seperate or tell you where they get them. Tey're out there, dig a little.
 
i bought my springs from ape. sure they still sell them, then had new rivets fitted and all welded in
 
Easy to say... less easy to do. Most all source manufacturers will only want to deal in large volume & why would the other guy sell just the springs... he wants to sell the full kit with back plate et al for a large sum of money.

I could get the springs made easy enough.... if we want to buy a couple thousand of them! :D

:)
 
Easy to say... less easy to do. Most all source manufacturers will only want to deal in large volume & why would the other guy sell just the springs... he wants to sell the full kit with back plate et al for a large sum of money.

I could get the springs made easy enough.... if we want to buy a couple thousand of them! :D

:)

+1 Dan. I agree totally with your sentiments.
 
:D and there lies the 2nd question... What do we want?? Any measured one from one of the kits?
 
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