82 gs650, decided to go do a carb rebuild. Annoyingly, the carbs are like cemented onto the engine side boots. They came off fine from the air box, but no matter how much wiggling and pulling I do, I can?t get them free from the engine side. Any tips? Also I can?t just remove the screws that hood the boots into the engine because they?re all very strongly in and some are partially rusted / stripped
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Any tips for removing carbs?
- Thread starter Cmarino
- Start date
Welcome to the world of 40 year old motorcycles.
My only suggestion is to unbolt the airbox and slide it back as far as possible, then slide the carbs back, out of the boots on the engine, and wrestle them out. It's strongly advised to replace those boots on the engine because if they are as hard as you describe they are sure to leak air. In terms of removing the boots, try some vice grips on the outermost screw to crack them loose, then try spinning the boot counter clockwise because they typically gets the screw to crack loose. If not, you can take a chisel and strike the screw on the very outside edge to get it to spin and crack loose. GOOD luck on that. Consider it the right of passage of an old motorcycle mechanic.
My only suggestion is to unbolt the airbox and slide it back as far as possible, then slide the carbs back, out of the boots on the engine, and wrestle them out. It's strongly advised to replace those boots on the engine because if they are as hard as you describe they are sure to leak air. In terms of removing the boots, try some vice grips on the outermost screw to crack them loose, then try spinning the boot counter clockwise because they typically gets the screw to crack loose. If not, you can take a chisel and strike the screw on the very outside edge to get it to spin and crack loose. GOOD luck on that. Consider it the right of passage of an old motorcycle mechanic.
Regarding getting them out of the engine intakes, I have levered them out with a tire iron or whatever works. I also have removed the rear engine mounts and jacked up the engine a small amount to give me more room to remove the carbs. You can get an extra half inch of clearance by doing that.
Warm them. That'll soften them temporarily...(hair dryer, heatgun or even hot rags with hotwater poured discreetly)
Winkle in a bit of oil. My bikes all seem to need the airbox and even the rear fender moved back so make room to go back first
Winkle in a bit of oil. My bikes all seem to need the airbox and even the rear fender moved back so make room to go back first
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A hairdryer aimed right Can help. Ive used a lump of 1*2 between the carbs levering against the engine before. Good luck 
G
Guest
Guest
I've removed and installed my dang carbs 6 times now.. cleaning, looking, adjusting, and then watching them leak again. LOL... I take my air box out completely, put a drop sheet or a bunch of rags on the engine, straddle the bike and rock the carbs up and down slowly until then break free. they always seem to break free on a downward motion, hence the need to protect them with rags/cushion etc.. just incase I push too hard. Getting them back in is easier - I spray them with bit of silicone lube and wiggle them back in until they pop. It's a work out for sure. And heat helps big time. I tried putting them back on yesterday in -12 C and it was a struggle.
I have the same problem unscrewing one of my manifold bolt from the engine to replace exhaust O rings. I got 7 of 8 bolts undone thanks mostly to my $20 hand held impact driver. However there's one bolt on carb 3 that just won't come loose. it's too close to the frame to get a good straight swing with a hammer and impact tool, and the head is starting to get stripped. I'm going to try that chisel trick and also spin the holder counter clockwise (the lower bolt comes out easy). Thanks for the advise Nessism
I have the same problem unscrewing one of my manifold bolt from the engine to replace exhaust O rings. I got 7 of 8 bolts undone thanks mostly to my $20 hand held impact driver. However there's one bolt on carb 3 that just won't come loose. it's too close to the frame to get a good straight swing with a hammer and impact tool, and the head is starting to get stripped. I'm going to try that chisel trick and also spin the holder counter clockwise (the lower bolt comes out easy). Thanks for the advise Nessism
At the risk of repeating most of the good suggestions already posted here, these are the steps I follow which have always worked for me:
- Hairdryer on the boots (I am told the proper term is manifolds not boots)
- un-bolt the air box to give you max wiggle room.
- then use a 2" x 2" length of wood as a pry bar to coax the carbs out and off the boots. Wood rarely leaves any marks vs a metal pry bar.
- as for the mounting screws for the boots, first spray penetrating oil on them and then an impact driver as they're a sob to remove.
- Hairdryer on the boots (I am told the proper term is manifolds not boots)
- un-bolt the air box to give you max wiggle room.
- then use a 2" x 2" length of wood as a pry bar to coax the carbs out and off the boots. Wood rarely leaves any marks vs a metal pry bar.
- as for the mounting screws for the boots, first spray penetrating oil on them and then an impact driver as they're a sob to remove.
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G
Guest
Guest
Don't beat them, smooth persistent firm pressure on a strong part of the carb is what seals the deal. Heat and even some WD40 can help. The WD40 can wick up into the intakes with the clamps off. I have had a lot more luck taking the carbs out of the intakes, as opposed to pulling the carbs with the intakes still on them off of the head. Odds are the intakes have never been off of the head, but the carbs have probably been off plenty of times.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Not sure who told you that, but they were mis-informed as well. :-k
According to the parts fiche: PIPE, INTAKE RH 13110-47010 or PIPE, INTAKE LH 13120-47010.
Take a good look at your impact tool. Chances are, the head that holds the bit can be removed. When you remove it, you will usually find a 3/8" square drive that looks remarkably like the drive on a socket set. Use a few long extensions and a 5mm hex bit, the driver portion will be above the battery, where it can be smacked at will.
What kind of tool do you have that could possibly remove the screws that hold the boots to the head while the carbs are still attached? Those screws are hard enough to access when the carbs are removed, I don't see how they could be removed with the carbs still there.
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Once the airbox is loose and pulled back -
Apply leverage and bend them carbs DOWN - then UP -
A few times like that will help immensely in getting them out -