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Anybody in LA area have a day to spare?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ooqueso
  • Start date Start date
O

ooqueso

Guest
I need some help! My 80 GS1000L starts, runs strong, just idles high and has disconcerting leaks somewhere on the front of the engine, leaving me smoking at stoplights. It also has a strange whine on the freeway, and I can tell something is rubbing when I just push it while off.

Well, broke college student that I am, I can't afford professional repair, and I need to fix it in a day (at least the leak and carbs), as I don't have a garage, and I lack the expertise for alacritous repairs.

I need to fix it soon, while I have the time available. I'd be willing to compensate for gas to any willing helper! I'm happy to do all the dirty work, I just need a guide that knows what to do.

I'm in Long Beach, and fear running the bike to Hollywood and back almost daily in it's current condition.
 
Chance of completing it in a day is slim... unless you have all the right parts to hand. You'll probably find the leak is from the tacho cable dripping onto the headers or the valve cover gasket dripping on the gaskets.

There is an idle stop screw on the carbs you can adjust, your manual will tell you where. Make sure the choke is being released all the way off too.

Dan :)
 
Thanks, I'll try the idle screw. On my GS500, the idle screw was no good. Idle wouldn't go below 3k even with the screw closed all the way. Haven't tried with this one yet.

How would I tighten the tach cable? Would the speedo cable be it, possibly? both gauges seem to bounce around a bit under acceleration, but the speedo much more so.
 
ooqueso said:
Thanks, I'll try the idle screw. On my GS500, the idle screw was no good. Idle wouldn't go below 3k even with the screw closed all the way. Haven't tried with this one yet.

How would I tighten the tach cable? Would the speedo cable be it, possibly? both gauges seem to bounce around a bit under acceleration, but the speedo much more so.
Click to expand...
Lube both cables, the tach cable goes into a connection between the header pipes, tighten it with a pair of pliers, so it won't fall out, otherwise you'll lose the core and have to buy a whole new cable......(about $15.00). Check your primary and final drive grease levels for the whine problem. sounds like they might be low, might as well drain and change them at the same time. Use 80w/90w gear lube.
 
The previous owner told me he lubed the cables, so maybe he just didn't tighten them well enough. A job for pliers? Cool. I'll give that a shot.

As for the final drive, is there any other name the system you refer to might go by in the manuals? 80/90, like the stuff in car differentials, or is there a bike specific oil that would be preferable?

Thanks for the responses! Your help is much appreciated!
 
Hi ooqueso,


In this quick little thing I did below, "primary drive" = secondary gears and "final drive" = rear differential. I use Castrol synthetic 75-90w gear oil in both places. You can search the forum for other recommendations for gear oil. I hope this helps. Forgive me if I state the obvious.

jessie_plugs.jpg



I fill the rear differential with as much as I can. I fill the secondary gear box just over the bottom of the little "spout" that you'll see on the inside of the fill plug.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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If you remove the tach cable (unscrew it) you can remove the locking tab holding the small round housing & pull it out of the engine. It has a seal inside it & an O ring on the shaft.

I've just changed mine, same problem! YOu can see them on the valves fiche here...

http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_select.asp

Parts 23 & 24 They are not expensive.

2151_2.gif




Dan :)
 
Great stuff, thanks! Better to state the obvious than omit what I need :D

Man... I don't want to cruise around leaking oil, so I hope these parts come quick :P
 
I've got a small leak at the tach cable connection on the top of my motor too. It's a little messy, but actually leaks very little, just enough to drip on the pipes now and then and dirty the front of the motor. I'm planning to fix it the next time I check my valve clearances. If yours is leaking enough to smoke then perhaps you should fix it soon.

Here's an excellent "how to" from our own bwringer:

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/tachcableseals.html


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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