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Anyone sandblast their own motor themselves?

  • Thread starter Thread starter oshanac
  • Start date Start date
first timer said:
how do you feel about just using walnut shells? is it as critical, and scary as sand to do a assembled engine?
Click to expand...
Walnut shells work great, but as I said before, I wouldnt attempt to blast a motor thats still assembled. The average owner will not take the time and means involved to do the job correctly. If youre dead set on leaving the engine in place and assembled, my first post is the one I stand behing still. A good cleaner like Purple power to soak and Scotch style pads until you got the effect you want. Then to keep all nice and shiney, I good brand of HiHeat clear paint.
 
most media blasters consume a fair amount of air volume and for the most part they need to be able to maintain 90 psi or so. I have never used the hobby type units, but I would imagine they still eat a lot of air. You need to find a compressor that can maintain 90 psi at 9cfm min I would think. If you lower the air pressure too much it will not work as well and if the compressor does not keep up fast enough to replace the air being used the pressure will drop.

good luck with it.
 
After reading all this, I think I may do the disassemble the motor route.

It's free, and then I may try the Aircraft method on the parts, free of all gaskets. Again, free (minus new gaskects of course). If it is too much of an ass pain, then, she'll already be apart-I'll go the blasting route. I can glass bead her at work or take it somewhere to get the walnut shell treatment (all we have is glass beads at work, we use it for guns-the boss would flip if I swapped it out with W.S., and I don't feel like inhaling a few ounces swapping them out, then back in). I'll try to take before, during, and after pics to post here. I'm not in a rush, so hopefully I'll get it done in a week or two.

I've decided I'm too OCD to just ride her ugly. No matter how good she runs, it's a classic and I want people to gravitate toward it-not away. Who doesn't love a clean GS!
 
I was told by a friend that soda blasts his car motors complete that baking soda works best as it is easily rinsed away with water afterwards and disolves quickly! Less cleanup....Less abrasive.....you may have to do more shooting to get the results you want.

All very good ideas/information......choose the one that best fits your needs and budget.:cool:
 
Zooks said:
Oven cleaner is just weak paint stripper. It does less of a job and is almost as dangerous to your health and the environment. Evil stuff and it shouldn't be washed down the drain.

If you're going to do this please do it outside and hose it off onto the grass or into the garden.
Click to expand...

Oven clean has Lye in it, good for stripping anodizing off aluminum bits. Paint stripper is different I think, the active ingredient is Methylene Chloride.
 
Zooks said:
Well it seems we have a new topic that gets the blood pumping.

It's nice to have something other than what tyres are best?, which oil should I use?, do you use the clutch for every gear change? and should I chop the frame? to argue, er sorry, debate about.
Click to expand...

Okay so lets summarize...

Blasting an engine while assembled requires very careful sealing of all openings other wise there is considerable risk of engine damage. Fabricated metal block off plates with rubber seals for example are required.

Happy?
 
Nessism said:
Okay so lets summarize...

Blasting an engine while assembled requires very careful sealing of all openings other wise there is considerable risk of engine damage. Fabricated metal block off plates with rubber seals for example are required.

Happy?
Click to expand...

Yes, thanks. :D
 
Hammered said:
Walnut shells work great, but as I said before, I wouldnt attempt to blast a motor thats still assembled. The average owner will not take the time and means involved to do the job correctly. If youre dead set on leaving the engine in place and assembled, my first post is the one I stand behing still. A good cleaner like Purple power to soak and Scotch style pads until you got the effect you want. Then to keep all nice and shiney, I good brand of HiHeat clear paint.
Click to expand...

so if i have the engine removed, already apart (not split, head and jugs off) I think i am going take it reassembly, sans gaskets, i'll use some grease on the gasket surfaces. bolt it back together carefull mask off all the important areas have at it with walnut shells. Then take it back apart clean it out and inspect it. For the sensative areas i might use soda.

sound good?
 
first timer said:
so if i have the engine removed, already apart (not split, head and jugs off) I think i am going take it reassembly, sans gaskets, i'll use some grease on the gasket surfaces. bolt it back together carefull mask off all the important areas have at it with walnut shells. Then take it back apart clean it out and inspect it. For the sensative areas i might use soda.

sound good?
Click to expand...

Based on responses in this thread some people blast with the engine together but I still can't recommend it. What if there is a gap between the head and cylinder and media gets though and into your roller bearing crank? Not worth the risk in my opinion. If the engine is fully assembled and doesn't leak, then maybe...maybe it would be okay to do some low pressure blasting with a soft media.

One other thing to consider is the plating on the crankcase screws; blasting can remove the plating which will lead to rust. No problem if the entire engine is going to be painted afterwords, but not best for a restoration.
 
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Nessism said:
Based on responses in this thread some people blast with the engine together but I still can't recommend it. What if there is a gap between the head and cylinder and media gets though and into your roller bearing crank? Not worth the risk in my opinion. If the engine is fully assembled and doesn't leak, then maybe...maybe it would be okay to do some low pressure blasting with a soft media.

One other thing to consider is the plating on the crankcase screws; blasting can remove the plating which will lead to rust. No problem if the entire engine is going to be painted afterwords, but not best for a restoration.
Click to expand...

if there are gaps in the head and cylinder then i have bigger problems then media, I will be visually inspecting for gaps to, plus walnut shells are pretty big and any gaps shouldn't be that big or like i said i have other issues. After I was done i was also going pull the oil pan and wash down the crank in kerosene to knock loose any stragglers if any. (i could also coat the crank in some grease too to help trap any stragglers if any so i know how meticulous i have to be in cleaning. Keep in mind walnut shells are wood which is a softer media then bearings and a crank they should just get chewed up.


any plating on the crank bolts is probalby gone anyway from rust, again walnut shells aren't that harsh, they basically just knock off the
corrosion.

I am planing to have this painted too.
 
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I agree with you about gaps ANYWHERE in the motor......if the media can get in so can moisture..........as well as stuff leaking out! If your motor is that bad then you can just blast away since you're obviously going to need to take it apart to rebuild it anyway!
 
If you have the means to Soda Blast, then no need for the walnut shells. And the bonus with soda is its easy to clean the cases up after with a quick wash down and blow dry. Soda wont scar the inner passages like sand if left behind. Ive seen, but never tried, soda blasting with a pressure washer. It adds soda in the same manner it would cleaners.
 
Yep, soda blasting works fine but it's slower than all the other products and uses a heck of a lot of air. Tip - wear a hat as the stuff gets everywhere and, if you're like me, it makes your head itch like crazy.
 
Hammered said:
If you have the means to Soda Blast, then no need for the walnut shells. And the bonus with soda is its easy to clean the cases up after with a quick wash down and blow dry. Soda wont scar the inner passages like sand if left behind. Ive seen, but never tried, soda blasting with a pressure washer. It adds soda in the same manner it would cleaners.
Click to expand...

i have 20lbs of walnut and 40lb of soda, I'll try both see what finish i like better. I was thinking i might need the walnut for some areas that need a more agressive approach.
 
It's good to hear about the baking soda. Can you just buy the grocery store variety or is it some special kind? I think after I take the motor out, I'll do the soda instead of sand. Even thought the motor will still have to be taped off (any kind of special hi durability tape needed for blasting?) I'd rather not risk the sand damage.

We ALL know the GS motor is bullit proof-but why risk damaging it. It's good to hear sand worked for some, but notice NO ONE here said soda blasting ever caused any kind of damage.

Thanks guys!
 
Great link Posplayr! Thanks for that info. It sound like for the guys that want a color, PC-though expensive, is the most heartbreak free way to go. Durability wise too.
 
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