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Anyway to test an oil pump?

  • Thread starter Thread starter spyug
  • Start date Start date
OK got the manual finally, not a very good diagram. Looks like there are several O rings in the oil pan and other places which if they are failed would lead to low oil pressure such as you have. They would leak the pressurized oil out into the crankcase, so no external leaks, just not much pressure.
Enough to not have done any damage so far, hopefully.
 
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I don't know that the oil pressure worked properly as I got the bike non running. The carbs were gunked so as soon as I could I switched them for a clean set I had off the parts bike. When first fired up I don't recall seeing the OP light stay on but I won't swear to it as I was probably a bit distracted.

Does this help any:
550Oil.jpg


As I'm stuck with the clutch hub nut and lacking a socket, I will next scope out the head and see what we have there.

When dealing with the seller I didn't get any bad vibes and as an aircraft mechanic I thought he would have kept things in good working order. He didn't mention anything but in thinking about it more I'm now starting to wonder. It was priced way less than I figured it should be and perhaps I sucked myself in thinking how fortunate I was to get a great score. I hope I'm wrong as he seemed like an honest guy.

I'll keep chipping away.

Cheers all,
spyug
 
Spyug

I do know that witht he top oilers removed that the oil will shoot up a couple of feet in the air. So your dribbleage is odd unless the pressure port is on the circuit feeding the crank bearings.

Had this happen when I forgot to connect the hoses.
So even in ideal condition oil will pump in high volumes.
 
Did you use the correct oil filter? Did it seem to fit properly? After the pump the oil goes through a passage in the oil pan. I bet there are O rings there. They could be failed or not installed correctly. Does the oil pan look like it's been removed lately?

The oil pressure regulator could be broken, letting most of the pumped oil return to the sump without going to the engine.

There may be other o rings in that engine which could fail, and let the oil out without leaking externally.
 
I do know that witht he top oilers removed that the oil will shoot up a couple of feet in the air. So your dribbleage is odd unless the pressure port is on the circuit feeding the crank bearings
Click to expand...
Well at an average pressure of say 55 psi it sure should shoot out like a geyser thats what really caught my attention.

At this point, I'm more convinced I have a busted or plugged pump as its the thing providing the pressure after all. I'm not ruling anything else out mind you but I'm having trouble wrapping my head around o-rings being a problem. Having said that, we do know how many problems they cause in carbs so maybe it would be best to change them at this point too.

Cheers,
spyug
 
Look at it like this. Turn a garden hose on, slowly. No pressure in the hose. Stick you thumb over the end, to spray water. Now there is pressure in the hose. The oil system in the engine works like this. Take your thumb off, no more pressure.
 
Does the oil pan look like it's been removed lately
Click to expand...
No, it looks like it had neve been off, same as the clutch cover.

I did use the right filter and it did go in no issues ( with a fresh cover gasket).

After the pump the oil goes through a passage in the oil pan. I bet there are O rings there
Click to expand...
I thought the oil went up and out to the crank bearings and up to the head then back down into the sump. I'll check the pan for o-rings.

The oil pressure regulator could be broken, letting most of the pumped oil return to the sump without going to the engine.
Click to expand...
Is there anyway of checking it? This is what gets me, If it is defective I likely wouldn't be able to tell and it could be the same thing with the oil pump and what prompted my original question. I feel like the only course of action seems to be replacing all the parts and o-rings in the hope that something sorts it out. This goes against my natural inquisitive nature of wanting to find a cause, however.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.

Spyug
 
Are you checking the pressure at the spot indicated in the manual?
That may be a big factor in the whole mess. You may be masurunr a circuit that is recieving little oil pressure because of normal diversion.

I would check the OP at the place Suzuki said to.
 
Pull the pressure relief valve and check the spring is not broken.
When the valve is assembled (but out of the motor) it should be possible to push the ball off it's seating with a small screwdriver - and a fair amount of effort.

I struck a similar problem with a Kawasaki which had sat in storage for some time. The relief valve was the lowest point on the oil circuits and water had corroded the valve so badly it bypassed oil constantly.
 
the bolt just under the pickup cover is the oil pressure test port. that is where you will read maximum pressure.

the oil pressure regulator is that little thing sticking up from the sump pan.

get a 30mm axle socket from a garage or local parts shop.

i still think for the moment that your problem is to do with the sump pan or oring between the pan and case.

look at the manual page 153 on.
there is one page showing the sump cover with the regulator and o ring im talking about.

to test the regulator you need to take it out and put 78psi through it or just take it apart to see what the spring pressure is like. its strong usually.
 
Pull the pressure relief valve and check the spring is not broken.
Click to expand...
I did that and I could push the spring in and it returns so its not broken or seized. Thanks for mentioning it.

The problem with checking the OP at another location is that I need to have proper pressure at the sender unit in order for it to trigger and the lights to go off on startup. So even if I had adequate pressure elsewhere it still leaves me with a problem. Oil pressure at the sender hole should be the optimum anyway as its closest to the pump.

I was able to get a socket today and spent the better part of the afternoon fabing up a "clutch sleeve hub holder". So far I've had no luck in loosening off the clutch hub nut so I'm not yet at the pump. I'm hoping now that I find it clogged or perhaps the shaft pin has sheared and its not turning. I'd just like to find something.

Thanks for following along and providing all this input. Its greatly appreciated.

Spyug

the bolt just under the pickup cover is the oil pressure test port. that is where you will read maximum pressure.
Click to expand...
Thanks, with everything apart now I will have to forgo checking there until I get it reassembled. At this point, I'm going all the way to pulling the oil pump for a look see and I'm thinking if i don't find anything I'll reassemble with new o-rings and see if I get anywhere. I'm going to be miffed if it turns out to be an o-ring.

I'll let you know if anything show up at the pump. Many thanks.
 
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Long ago, I think someone had posted about jamming a rag in the gears to stop the hub from turning and then using the impact driver on it. Maybe a plastic handle from a paint brush would do the same??
 
Long ago, I think someone had posted about jamming a rag in the gears to stop the hub from turning and then using the impact driver on it
Click to expand...

Why didn't I think of that? I was looking at the procedures in the manual and they were using a breaker bar on the nut so I was naturally thinking to do the same. I have a perfectly good portable compressor and rattle gun so why not put some power to it.

Its funny, but I was brought up using hand tools and I never think to use my air ratchet or the impact driver on bike projects. Time to start using my head before its too late.

Thanks for the great suggestion.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
Air impact and you wont need to jam anything..few quick bursts and she will be off before you can say dixie.
 
This, Bdup dup gone.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I don't understand the comment. Is it not a good idea to use an impact wrench? I haven't tried it yet but I certainly don't want to bugger something else up.

I do want to get to that oil pump so it will have to come off.

Thanks,
Spyug
 
Hes saying its ok..Bdup dup or whatever is the sound of the impact..If the mechanics at the dealerships use them then theres no reason for us no to.
 
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So after taking the advice I applied the rattle gun to the clutch retaining nut and one shot and off she came.

I pulled the oil pump and to my chagrin, there was nothing at all wrong with it. No sheared pin or plugged mechanism. All shipshape and Bristol fashion. So I'm no further ahead in my exploration of discovery.

At this point, I can only think that the o-rings may indeed be my problem so I will pick up a couple and bolt her all back together.

I can't think of anything else to check or do at this point. Dang, I wished I had found something.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Cheers,
spyug
 
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