• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Bandit Rear Wheel / GS Hub

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
520setup.jpg
[/QUOTE]

Got a question concerning this combo. In the photo above (stolen from previous Katman thread) The inner lip of the GS Hub is not sitting inside the wheel cavity. I assume this is correct but just want to make sure.

If you pull out the rubber baby buggy bumpers that eat up the chain drive torque and you also take out the wheel bearing grease seal then the hub will sit inside the wheel cavity with the inner sleeve contacting the bearing directly. Deeper in looks cleaner but I don't think its right.

If you put back the grease seal then it will look like the pic shown. Its the collar inside the hub that accepts the axle sleeve that actually sits on the grease seal and causes the hub's lip to sit outside the wheel cavity.

The same is true if you use all the stock bandit parts and inner axle sleeve. If the grease seal is in place then the hub lip doesn't sit inside the cavity.

So I assume this is the correct look. The chain would probably start to hit the tire if the hub was any further in.

I've been using the GS Hub & inner sleeve in the past but didn't pay any attention to where the hub's lip was sitting till today. Just seems that sticking out like this would allow moisture to get in easier. Do folks doing this conversion stick with the GS tapered inner sleeve or switch over to the Bandit non tapered sleeve?
 
isleoman said:
520setup.jpg
Click to expand...

Got a question concerning this combo. In the photo above (stolen from previous Katman thread) The inner lip of the GS Hub is not sitting inside the wheel cavity. I assume this is correct but just want to make sure.

If you pull out the rubber baby buggy bumpers that eat up the chain drive torque and you also take out the wheel bearing grease seal then the hub will sit inside the wheel cavity with the inner sleeve contacting the bearing directly. Deeper in looks cleaner but I don't think its right.

If you put back the grease seal then it will look like the pic shown. Its the collar inside the hub that accepts the axle sleeve that actually sits on the grease seal and causes the hub's lip to sit outside the wheel cavity.

The same is true if you use all the stock bandit parts and inner axle sleeve. If the grease seal is in place then the hub lip doesn't sit inside the cavity.

So I assume this is the correct look. The chain would probably start to hit the tire if the hub was any further in.

I've been using the GS Hub & inner sleeve in the past but didn't pay any attention to where the hub's lip was sitting till today. Just seems that sticking out like this would allow moisture to get in easier. Do folks doing this conversion stick with the GS tapered inner sleeve or switch over to the Bandit non tapered sleeve?[/QUOTE]

Tom,
It is a little hard to follow the explanation but it sounds like when your grease seal is installed you don't have a load path through the wheel that is metal on metal. In other words, when you tighten the axle bolt the load should transfer from one side to the other by spacers and sleeves pressing directly against the inner races of the bearings on both sides. There should not be any rubber to steel interface in the load path.

BTW my 18" wheel conversion everything is homogeneous 88 GSXR 1100 stuff on the rear axle.
Jim
 
That would actually be my rear end you are looking at :p. The hub is not snug in this photo it was a mock up. However as you can see from the photo there is room to spare. The biggest problem I encountered was the chain rubbing the Ohlins which has a longer coil than the stock suspension.
 
Joe, I assumed that was your bike as Katman credited photo to JW. Of course there's a lot of Ws in Texas.

Jim, I just re-read my question and can see how it might confusicate some.

Best to use pics.

Hub-204-Reduced.jpg


Pic 1. Bandit Wheel, GS Hub, GS Axle Sleeve and grease seal installed, Hub not flush with wheel cavity rim.

Hub-Reduced-211.jpg

Pic 2. Sleeve, grease seal and chain shock dampers removed Hub is flush.

Hub-Reduced-197.jpg


Pic 3 GS Axle Sleeve in center of GS hub.
 
More Pics

Hub-190-Reduced.jpg


Pic 4. Gs Axle Sleeve Left, Bandit Right. I've always used GS Sleeve it's shorter.

Hub-Reduced-193.jpg


Pic 5. Bandit Sleeve sitting in Grease Seal and fully in contact with bearing below. Seems like its was designed for this seal.

Hub-Reduced-217.jpg


Pic 6. GS Axle sleeve held above Grease Seal. Diameter of GS Axle sleeve doesn't allow it to penetrate grease seal and make contact with bearing. This is what's holding hub proud of the wheel cavity. (I think).
 
Last edited:
Hub-Reduced-216.jpg


Pic 7. Staged pic of GS Axle Sleeve from inside seal to show how it is not penetrating.

What I'm wondering is does the axle bolt force everything together or did I get my axle seals mixed up during powder coating and I should have one with a larger i.d from the GS wheel.

I checked the depth of the bearings and they are the same as my other bandit wheel so I think its fully seated.
 
Isleoman,

When I had my wheel powder coated my hub was really tight do to the thickness of the powder coating process. I had to actually assemble everything and tighten the axle bolt in order to get it to fit snug and in place. I used the GS sleeve also.

Joe
 
Last edited:
Joe, If mine was only off by the amount that yours is in the first photo I would agree. I've done push ups on that hub to try and press everything together and it doesn't seem to help.
Take the seal out and it works.

Hub-Reduced-197.jpg


The problem seems to be the inner rim of the hub's center collar that accepts the sleeve. It seems to rest on the grease seal.

Seems like the grease seal's inner hole should be much larger dia. or the bearing isn't fully seated however everything is touching in terms of the bearing and the wheel's inner axle sleeve between the two bearings. Only other thing would be to omit the seal.
 
I may be wrong but does that sleeve go the other way , I dont have mine apart so not sure..
 
No... that's the right way. I shortened the one on my 750 a bit to allow the hub to move over a little.

Looks like you have a mismatch between seal & spacer. The GS spacer is slightly smaller than the GSXR one in dia from memory so perhaps it's the same with the bandit.

Dan :)
 
Joe/Jim,

I'm almost certain that the pointed spacer (Item 7) in Joe's post is the GS1100 spacer (left side of my Pic 4) but thanks for showing that GS diagram. I realized that there is no grease seal between Item 7 and the bearing (Item 3 in the GS diagram above).

I must have pulled it off the other side of my old wheel and just assumed it went there cause it was the right o.d. The only grease seals on the chain side of the wheel are Items 14 (GS) and Item 16 (Bandit below) on the outside of the hub bearing, not the wheel bearing.

From the GS and Bandit (below) diagrams it looks like neither uses a grease seal between the wheel bearing and the spacer. Thanks for helping me work through this. You can see in the Bandit diagram that that spacer looks just like my photo #4 (right side). The spacer in the GS diagram isn't very well drawn. So I think it was that misplaced seal that was preventing the hub from seating to right depth. So my Pics 5 and 6 shouldn't have the seal installed in them

2164_58.gif
 
Last edited:
Deleted my post you have it right, I was looking at the GS sleeve wrong
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top