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Basic Spark Plug Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter UncleMike
  • Start date Start date
U

UncleMike

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Most of the knowledge I have in regards to vehicle maintenance is thanks to this site and the people inhabiting it. That being said, I'm still an idiot.

Should I be adjusting the gap of the new spark plugs I buy? I'm using the NGK's that are recommended for the bike. Also, should I be using anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the top?

Thanks,
Mike
 
yes, its a good idea to set the gaps on new spark plugs. I think factory gaps are about 30 thou, which may or may not be correct for your ignition system.

I dont use any anti seize on plug threads. I do start them into the head with my fingers. Its nearly impossible to cross thread a plug with two fingers and exert enough force to strip/damage threads. Once started smoothly, I use the plug wrench. Keep in mind, the plugs only need to be tight enough to compress the compression washer on them plus an additional SLIGHT snug down. There is NO reason to install plugs gorilla tight unless you enjoy helicoiling new threads into your cylinder heads. :-) I dont use any grease on top either.

Earl




UncleMike said:
Most of the knowledge I have in regards to vehicle maintenance is thanks to this site and the people inhabiting it. That being said, I'm still an idiot.

Should I be adjusting the gap of the new spark plugs I buy? I'm using the NGK's that are recommended for the bike. Also, should I be using anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the top?

Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
 
UncleMike said:
Most of the knowledge I have in regards to vehicle maintenance is thanks to this site and the people inhabiting it. That being said, I'm still an idiot.

Should I be adjusting the gap of the new spark plugs I buy? I'm using the NGK's that are recommended for the bike. Also, should I be using anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the top?

Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...


I absolutely would use anti-seize compound. If you ever lost threads in an aluminum head, you'd understand. The dielectric grease isn't as necessary, and get crude all over everything.

As for the gap, I always set it.
 
Anti seize certainly isnt going to hurt anything. Probably a good idea one tends to be heavy handed mechanically. With finger threading and snug, I've never stripped a plug. Sometimes, if I have a plug that threads in a little stiff, I will use the anti seize.

Earl

Energizer Bunny said:
I absolutely would use anti-seize compound. If you ever lost threads in an aluminum head, you'd understand. The dielectric grease isn't as necessary, and get crude all over everything.

As for the gap, I always set it.
Click to expand...
 
All I use is a feeler guage and my wooden bench top. I just tap the electrode end of the spark plug on my wood bench, which taps the electrode gap closed, then pull a feeler guage through it to open it to the gap I want.

Earl

UncleMike said:
So,...how do I set the gap? Do I need special tools?
Click to expand...
 
Great. I'll pick up one of these "feeler gauges" you speak of tomorrow.
 
I like to use a SPARK PLUG GAP WIRE GAUGE made especially for plug gapping. They include electrode adjustment tools so that it isn't necessary to tap the electrode on anything to narrow the gap.
 
I find the wire tools much easier. Not neccessary. Also I alway check the gaps, but they seem to be good most of the time.
 
Certainly you can buy special tools for gapping spark plugs. You can also do the job with nothing more than a feeler guage. Your engine isnt going to know the difference between a plug gapped by a million dollar computerized gapping machine and a grey haired midget with a squint. :-)

Earl


Boondocks said:
I like to use a SPARK PLUG GAP WIRE GAUGE made especially for plug gapping. They include electrode adjustment tools so that it isn't necessary to tap the electrode on anything to narrow the gap.
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
Certainly you can buy special tools for gapping spark plugs. You can also do the job with nothing more than a feeler guage. Your engine isnt going to know the difference between a plug gapped by a million dollar computerized gapping machine and a grey haired midget with a squint. :-)

Earl
Click to expand...

What about a computerized midget?
 
I think they call those holograms. :-) My understanding is that holographic
midgets are limited to gapping holographic spark plugs. eheheh

Earl

UncleMike said:
What about a computerized midget?
Click to expand...
 
The wire tools probably are easier. It occurs to me that if one finds gapping a spark plug a difficult mechanical experience, then perhaps wrenching on an engine is not the best of choices. LOL ehehehehehe

Earl

Llamaguy said:
I find the wire tools much easier. Not neccessary. Also I alway check the gaps, but they seem to be good most of the time.
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
The wire tools probably are easier. It occurs to me that if one finds gapping a spark plug a difficult mechanical experience, then perhaps wrenching on an engine is not the best of choices. LOL ehehehehehe

Earl
Click to expand...

Sure, that's easy for you to say. Imagine myself, however. My dad never showed me how to do so much as use a screwdriver, because his dad was never around to show him. I've never seen someone "gap" a sparkplug, let alone know what it entails. For all I know, it could be some complicated engineering endeavor involving processes I could only dream of.

Luckily I've got this group of mechanical geniuses to walk me through the valley of the shadow of GS.
 
hahahahah Basically, you just want to make the distance between the little round metal post inside the plug and the flat wire thinghy outside, equal to whatever the specs for your bike call for. If you have a good thumb nail and a strong thumb, you can probably "crimp" the electrode to the correct gap with your "pinkies" LOL

If you use the tap tap method, dont try to get it all the way down to spec with one big tap. Little taps and check between each tap, taking it down maybe a thou with each tap. Its correct when the guage barely will go through the gap with a slight bit of drag.

I know what you're saying. My father never owned a tool. I dont count a hammer. LOL

Earl

UncleMike said:
Sure, that's easy for you to say. Imagine myself, however. My dad never showed me how to do so much as use a screwdriver, because his dad was never around to show him. I've never seen someone "gap" a sparkplug, let alone know what it entails. For all I know, it could be some complicated engineering endeavor involving processes I could only dream of.

Luckily I've got this group of mechanical geniuses to walk me through the valley of the shadow of GS.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks. And I'm serious. Not even a hammer. He brags that his only tool is his dialing finger.
 
My father in law was like that. If a light bulb burned out, he picked up the phone and called the bulb changing company. LOL

Earl

UncleMike said:
Thanks. And I'm serious. Not even a hammer. He brags that his only tool is his dialing finger.
Click to expand...
 
Feeler Gauge, We Don' Need No Stinkin' Feeler Gauge!

Feeler Gauge, We Don' Need No Stinkin' Feeler Gauge!

earlfor said:
Certainly you can buy special tools for gapping spark plugs. You can also do the job with nothing more than a feeler guage. Your engine isnt going to know the difference between a plug gapped by a million dollar computerized gapping machine and a grey haired midget with a squint. :-)

Earl
Click to expand...

Earl, I realize that an old guy like you (although not quite as old as me):-s might prefer old fangled procedures, but you have missed my point. The $2.25 gauge which you call a "special tool" is preferred not because it is easier to use (although it is), but because it is more accurate than a flat feeler gauge. Although your engine may not care about the midget, it will know the difference between accurately gapped plugs and those not accurate. I hate to be technical, but after all this is the Technical Forum. :)

To confirm that this is not simply my opinion and to avoid a "word war" I offer these quotes from the following links:

"A spark plug gap gauge with round wires of precise diameters is used to measure the gap; use of a feeler gauge with flat blades instead of round wires, as is used on distributor points or valve lash, will give erroneous results, due to the shape of spark plug electrodes."
Spark Plug Gap

"When checking plug gaps, the correct way is to use ONLY wire gauges, though many of us are using the slider style gapping tools. These flat or feeler gauge style gauges do not accurately measure true width of spark plug gap. "
Proper Spark Plug Gapping

"The best tool to measure the gap is a round-wire gap gauge, not a flat gauge. Spend $1.89 and buy one of the disc-shaped spark plug gap tools that includes about six different wire sizes (make sure it includes 0.035" and 0.040") and a little hook shaped tool that grabs the side electrode and bends it open or closed. These tools tend to come in "ranges", such as 0.020" to 0.045" and 0.040" to 0.070".

Don't use flat feeler gauges to gap spark plugs; it is nearly impossible to get an accurate or precise setting with them. The same goes for the "tapered ramp" or stepped-flat type gauges; stick with round wire. Note that round wire is the ONLY acceptable gauge if the plug has been used, because the round wire gauges will still give accurate measurements with a slightly pitted electrode whereas the flat type will not."
Plug Gapping

"Use a wire type gauge, since it is more accurate, when gapping spark plugs."
How To Change Your Spark Plugs

"Use a wire type feeler gauge to measure the gap, do not use flat or tapered feeler gauges."
Q: How do you set the spark plug gap?
 
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