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Battery Voltage

  • Thread starter Thread starter hamburgler
  • Start date Start date
H

hamburgler

Guest
I'm having some charging issues. Voltage across the battery terminals is 13v when the bike is just sitting. Voltage across the verminals when the bike is idling at 1000 is about 17v. Doesnt that seem a bit high? All I know is that my car is about 14.5 at idle and my 100rr is about the same. Thanks.
 
You should be around 12-13v at idle and at most 15v at 5000RPM. Take a look at that link I sent you though before you just start replacing parts. It will save you a ton of headaches.
 
Hi Mr. hamburgler,

Check out the electrical section in my little website.

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
hat1.gif


Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed. I will put you on my prayer list.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
First, double check your work, test again. If you are seeing 17V at idle, the Regulator part of your Regulator/Rectifier has failed. You most certainly need to replace it before it starts taking out other electrical components.
 
Yep, that pretty much indicates a faulty regulator.

The Regulator/Rectifier(R/R), is One sealed unit, which basically has Two components crammed in.

The Rectifier part- converts AC to DC power, this is needed because the Stator itself generates AC current....so hence the "rectifier".

The Regulator part- regulates the voltage, ensuring it's not too High or too Low.
So if you're seeing 17v at just above Idle....the Regulator isn't doing it's job, most likely.
 
Last edited:
hamburgler said:
I'm having some charging issues. Voltage across the battery terminals is 13v when the bike is just sitting. Voltage across the verminals when the bike is idling at 1000 is about 17v. Doesnt that seem a bit high? All I know is that my car is about 14.5 at idle and my 100rr is about the same. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I double checked it again. What I meant to type last night is that when the bike is off the voltage is about 13. At idle voltage is 14.5 and at 4000rpm the voltage is ~17v. Does this seem more normal?

Ill run through the stator papers tonight. Thanks.
 
Hi,

hamburgler said:
At idle voltage is 14.5 and at 4000rpm the voltage is ~17v. Does this seem more normal?
Click to expand...

No.

At 4000-5000rpm the voltage output from the regulator at the battery should be ~14.5vDC, within a few tenths. Also check for voltage loss between the r/r output and the battery (+) terminal. See the electrical page of my website for lots more information.




Thank you for your indulgence,


BassCliff
 
Yep, that's way high output. +1, RR time. Many of us have gotten Shindengen units off of Hondas. They seem to be beefier and more reliable than the stock Nippon Denso units. Fit can sometimes be an issue. What model of GS is this?
 
hamburgler said:
I'm having some charging issues. Voltage across the battery terminals is 13v when the bike is just sitting. Voltage across the verminals when the bike is idling at 1000 is about 17v. Doesnt that seem a bit high? All I know is that my car is about 14.5 at idle and my 100rr is about the same. Thanks.
Click to expand...

hamburgler said:
I double checked it again. What I meant to type last night is that when the bike is off the voltage is about 13. At idle voltage is 14.5 and at 4000rpm the voltage is ~17v. Does this seem more normal?

Ill run through the stator papers tonight. Thanks.
Click to expand...

17 not good at anytime. Will cause problems with battery, and maybe burn out lights real quick.

Could be a failed R/R ... or the R/R itself maybe okay but it is not well grounded and it can not regulate even though the R/R itself is OKAY.

Look for the black wire on the R/R, see where it is connected. THis is a check that is in the stator papers. With engine running check for voltage with meter, one lead on that black wire and other lead on battery negitive. Should be zero point zero volts (or maybe just 0.2 volts, not 10 or 12 or 17 volts) since that black wire needs to grounded and the ground be connected to batt negative.

Tell us more what you find.

.
 
Last edited:
edit: The engine is a 79, but it's got the upgraded electrical system.

In the mean time here is a pic of my bike:

1bike.jpg


Its got a stator and RR from RM stator in Canada (where I am from)

https://www.rmstator.com/en/motorcy.../stator_for__gs_850_g_~gl_/1980-1983/4228.htm

https://www.rmstator.com/en/motorcycles/suzuki/gs_750_e/voltage_regulator_rectifier.htm

I am just about to go through the stator papers and try to figure this out. The most messed up thing about this is that on a cold start just now the voltage continues to rise. I used the multi meter on the battery just right after i started it and it read 13.0v and it kept on on there. It slowly climbed to 17.5v at 1500rpm after about a minute. I watched it the whole time. Anyways Ill continue going through the papers and use that flow chart. Thanks for the help guys. Greatly appreciated. Adam
 
Here are some pics of the setup. It's looking pretty rusty now. Maybe I should try and clean up the contacts a little better.

2011-08-10_2011051.jpg


2011-08-10_2011581.jpg


2011-08-10_2012361.jpg
 
That's a nice looking boxer you have there. I'm sort of partial to them, though my own is in the figurative doghouse right now for his second skunk encounter in the last two weeks :eek: Ugh.

I'd probably give RM a call and see if they'll warranty tech support and/or warranty replace your unit.
 
well i tested the RR and it failed in these scenarios:


Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to the negative output wire (BLACK/WHITE) of the RR . If there is no output wire, connect the black multimeter lead to the RR-case Connect the RED multimeter lead to one yellow wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

You have a reading of 1.00 V or lower on one of the three tests (I had a reading of 1.0v)

AND

Disconnect the RR from the bike. Switch the multimeter to the diode test position. Connect the RED multimeter lead to the RED positive output wire of the RR. Connect the BLACK multimeter-lead to one of the yellow wires. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

You have a reading of 1.00 V or lower on one of the three tests (I had a reading of 1.0v)

The other two scenarios passed. I had readings of ~0.5v.
 
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