battery wont charge new battery whays going on?

[Gsnoob]

Hi guys need a little help parked my 81 gs650gl last fall thinking I just had a bad battery because had local shop test it and tell me it was bad. So this weekend I bought new battery had them fully charge it, put it in my bike. After some spring prep took her out for a ride seemed fine parked her in the garage. Next day went out fired right up. So I ran to town maybe 8 miles got gas went to hit the started dead battery. Had shop jump it with a boost pack fired right up and idled smooth got it back home shut it off battery deader then dead. What could be my problem has a newer stator when stator went out she wouldn't even run so I'm assuming this is something different just don't know what any ideas would be helpfull thanks.

 

[Pendulum]

Don't assume anything is good, test it.

Search for the Stator Papers, and do the tests in there. Also, check all of your grounds.

 

[GateKeeper]

to assist you in testing the problem's your having....

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GSR_Greeting.html


http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm



.

 

[tom203]

Don't assume anything is good, test it.

Search for the Stator Papers, and do the tests in there. Also, check all of your grounds.

Excellent advice!

 

[Gsnoob]

Hey guys sorry its been sometime and hopefully I can revive this, I went through the pages and ran through the tests on the stator Ohms, AC output while running all the good stuff. Things looke dokay on stator end of stuff. SO i went through cleaned all connections checked everything and hooked it all back up. Started the bike and couldnt get a battery reading to pass like 12.6 no matter my RPMs. So I just got a new R/R hooked it up started bike. I now can go from like 12.6ish - high of about 13.6 at 3krpm. My concer is after doing reading most people say at 4-5k rpms you see it go up to as high as 14 something, i never ever see this. So im cautious to take it out yet until getting some other thoughts. I had some stuff come up so i wasnt able to get my R/R till just yesterday hopefully I can still bring this post back and get some help.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

All of the connections in the charging system must be clean. Clean the grounds and the fusebox too. Connect the ground wire from the r/r unit directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Make sure the battery terminals are clean. Make sure the ground strap from the negative terminal to the battery has clean connections. You may even want to connect the output from the r/r unit directly to the positive terminal of the battery through an inline fuse assembly using a 15 amp fuse.

For more information:

Fusebox Cleanup​

Stator Test​

Stator Replacement​

Regulator/Rectifier Replacement
GS Charging System Health+Quick Test
More On The Stator Papers
Compatible Stators and R/Rs
Regulator/Rectifier Diode Test
Cleaning Your Wiring Harness​

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Gsnoob]

Okay I will run through some more stuff that you recommended. The old R/R was actually grounded back to itself. The shop i had it to that did the stator replacment ran it that way so I had changed it over to a frame location but i will move it to bat neg post. Sad thing is they are a Suzuki shop. My bike is and 81 GS650GL can someone tell me what my exact or close readings should be off the battery at Idle and and various psoitions say 3k rpm to 5k rpm. And also idk if it matters i replaced the R/R with a RICKS R/R from Dennis Kirk

 

[tom203]

My original R/R never went beyond 13.6 volts no matter what I did. The Shindengen replacement holds fairly steady at 14.2 volts above 2k rpm. Anything above 13.2 volts is charging battery decently: do what Basscliff said (especially run R/R negative to battery negative with jumper wire ), but you're OK .

 

[koolaid_kid]

Another route would be to leave the R/R grounded to the frame. Build and install another wire that connects to the same frame ground as the R/R and run the new wire to the battery. This is the beginning of what we lovingly know as the "Star" arrangement, where all grounds go to the same frame mount, and then one wire goes directly to the battery.

 

[Gsnoob]

okay re ran some wires volts when running up to higher rpms look okay. However I am concerned because the 3 leads off the stator after only maybe 3-5 min of idle and low rpms revs get hot to the touch. Also I felt the new R/R and it was pretty warm as well. I went over the stator test in the guide from Ohms to AC and it seemed like stator was okay. Am I just being paranoid about my stator? Or is there reason to be concerned I know some electrical connections can get warm but it just didnt seem right to me as noting else anywhere around it felt warm.

 

[Gsnoob]

I dont get it I just went out and went through the guide again all, ohm readings are at 1 across all three leads any combo, the ground to case method no reading as it says.Finally metering in AC between leads up to 5k rpm all read all hit 60v. Thats saying my stator id good right? so why are the "legs" as it seems they are call gettign so warm andf my R/R also.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Because you are pushing over 200 Watts of power through 3 skinny wires. As long as the numbers look good I would not worry about it.

 

[tom203]

I dont get it I just went out and went through the guide again all, ohm readings are at 1 across all three leads any combo, the ground to case method no reading as it says.Finally metering in AC between leads up to 5k rpm all read all hit 60v. Thats saying my stator id good right? so why are the "legs" as it seems they are call gettign so warm andf my R/R also.

Personally, I think the Rick's R/R is too small (heatsink wise on the ones I've seen), but you got a warranty, so relax! spot check connections from time to time, look for burning at any stator leg joints.

 

[Steve]

I now can go from like 12.6ish - high of about 13.6 at 3krpm. My concer is after doing reading most people say at 4-5k rpms you see it go up to as high as 14 something, i never ever see this.

Keep in mind that not all regulation setpoints are the same. While 14-something is desireable, it's not mandatory. Technically speaking, anything over 12.8 (the battery voltage) will charge the battery. The difference is is how well it charges the battery. Higher voltages (up to a point) will do a better job.

.

 

[Gsnoob]

Okay I wont worry about it so much then, and if browing or does occur on the legs what will that signify that ive burned my R/R again or that my stator is burning? I did notice a tad of dark diss color and the rubber cover but pulled them back and wires appeared okay I think when i had my stator replaced 2yrs back that they just used the old ones becuase like I say wires look fine under the rubber. Sure as heck wont make mistake of letting shop work on the bike ever again thats for sure 450$ for whats seeming to be under 200 if i did it my self. As always thanks for the great help guys

 

[Missile99]

I understand your worries. Those stator wires do get quite warm like others have said. I separated all three of mine with tape and wire loom so they won't become one hot bundle but instead three warm connections. Your battery charging voltage is identical to mine. My battery is fully charged after a ride.
Occasionally check battery voltages at idle and 4k rpm to make sure you're not overcharging.

One more thing: Did you do a voltage drop test from the R/R positive feed? I put a jumper between where it connects into the harness and put the meter leads between that and the battery (+). If it's more than say .5 volts then you most likely have a connection that need replacing. There usually are a few before it tees into the harness that goes to the switch. This will gain you some charging voltage. The suggestion to split the ground to battery and frame is wise. Backup grounds are a smart thing to do on these old things.

 

[posplayr]

the connection test in the stator pages is for a maximimum of 0.2v but that should be confirmed at 5000 rpm when there is max load. If you are charge rate will be very slow below 13.0v. The minimum charging I would recommend is 13.5v.

I understand your worries. Those stator wires do get quite warm like others have said. I separated all three of mine with tape and wire loom so they won't become one hot bundle but instead three warm connections. Your battery charging voltage is identical to mine. My battery is fully charged after a ride.
Occasionally check battery voltages at idle and 4k rpm to make sure you're not overcharging.

One more thing: Did you do a voltage drop test from the R/R positive feed? I put a jumper between where it connects into the harness and put the meter leads between that and the battery (+). If it's more than say .5 volts then you most likely have a connection that need replacing. There usually are a few before it tees into the harness that goes to the switch. This will gain you some charging voltage. The suggestion to split the ground to battery and frame is wise. Backup grounds are a smart thing to do on these old things.