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Best 4-1 Exhaust ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter zuzu
  • Start date Start date
srsupertrap said:
I believe the test results are relevant because not all of the aftermarket exhaust systems were free flowing, some manufacturers just jumped on the band wagon.

Most owners, started their performance modifications by first installing the favorite 4 into 1 and then discovered the joy/pain of rejetting. The 1982 Cycle Guide test would be fantastic with detailed optimum A/F ratios, but how much time & $ would it take to achieve optimum A/F on twenty different 4 into 1's in a era before the DJ or K&N jetting kits were even invented? Economics probably dictated the scope & limitations. IMHO, the test was done in a different era and the statement of "no value" is akin to Monday morning quaterbacking and benefits from twenty five years hindsight.
Click to expand...

Not to be argumentative, but I think the aftermarket pipes were not given a fair test, since they were not used correctly....I know Vance & Hines and I suspect most of the others as well (including my Wolf Racing 4X1) came with info re. jets, as well as some tips on airbox mods if necessary, to get in the A/F ballpark ('82 was before my riding/driving days, but I think both Dynojet and K&N have been around since the 70's?) .
Under the mag's conditions, the most restrictive system, not the most free flowing, would probably benefit, since the conditions were closer to stock .Which means, the hp figures , and the 'best' system they picked, have dubious value (for hp info alone....the info re.oil filter/centerstand retention is great).
For example, if they had decided to test/publish hp figures for various pod-type air filters against the stock airbox set-up, without bothering to re-jet due to time/expense, that test would have had similarly skewed results, IMHO.
Novice riders in '82 probably had no clue on proper aftermarket modding, but I think the tech editors of a major magazine would know better?
Anyway, I think we can all agree (albeit 25 years later), that their hp findings cannot be considered necessarily accurate, given the conditions of the test?:)
Tony.
 
Actually, I do remember them doing a 600 test several years back with a HUGE amount of slip ons and full systems and each bike was jetted to suit!

A huge undertaking but probably one of the most informative articles ive ever seen!

And believe it or not there were still some pipes that made the bike lose power but several gave massive increases, the highest being an extra 13hp (plus a XS1100 sized weight reduction)!!!

Plus a full dyno curve with every pipe and they listed noise levels, which ones were difficult to install, had bits missing, were poorly packaged, required modifications to fit........
 
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Sounds cool...must have been a Kiwi mag?
I vaguely recall reading about another engine builder testing several systems on the dyno, and the Bassani came out on top (in terms of peak power)...he attributed this to the length of the pipes before the first downward bend being closest to ideal, along with general good design..I do not know if that is indeed true, or if the jetting was corrected for each system.
Old-timers up here say the locally made Wolf Racing system that I'm currently running, out-performed the V&H and Kerkers back in the day (they are no longer in production)...I have'nt been able to find any actual data to verify that, but it does sound cool! ;)
Tony.
 
No this was a US mag (cant remember which one) and they tested a modern plastic 600 back in the late 90's or very early 00's.
Was Amazing to see how much horsepower a middleweight bike could pick up from a replacement pipe, and often without a huge jump in decibels!!
 
pipe/sounds

pipe/sounds

For me, NOTHING sounded better than a Bassani with the "track" baffle.
Well I couldn't find one for my 1100ES, I opted for the next best, Super trapp. Big block sound(deep tone) and LOTS of baffle choices. Brushed stainless muffler ,ofcourse.....
 
I have had V&H, Mac and Supertrapp on GS's, you can also get others from the UK.
I know the V&H and Mac, and maybe Jardine, are available in the US.
Of those choices, I prefer the V&H.

You can also get any header that will fit and have a midpipe made up (cheap) then use whatever cannister you desire. There is no need to be limited to a megaphone exhaust unless that is what you want.
 
Crap... your 1000 sounds mean... and your starter crap... mine does not have that kind of sound at all... I am only using bone stock exhaust that I got for $150 on ebay to get my rusted one off my bike but still...

I would get a 4-1 but a few things are stopping me...

1. Doubt I could jet the carbs on my own and tune it correctly

2. I use the stock airbox still and have been nervious about going pods without a good tutor on site working with me

3. Worried about scrappage...looks like it hangs so low on bike

4. Still don't feel my bottom end is up to snuff of what others here have, I could be convinced to change my mind on the deal but I'd need a seasoned rider to listen to my GS and let me know if it is healthy.... I think it is but I'm no expert...

...maybe I goto rally I convince some fortunate soul to gimme a leg up on this .... swap on site anyone? :-D

renobruce said:
What's wrong with that nice looking Supertrapp that's on it now?

I bought a chrome and a black Jardine for my 1000's. I haven't installed either yet, but some say the Jardine out-performs the V&H. I think the Jardines are all gone, so your only choice that I know of is V&H. They sound good, but I think the quality has gone down some over the years. Mine was difficult to install and the chrome I think is pretty thin. My bike is tuned perfect, and the pipes still want to turn gold and blue. I plan on ceramic coating the insides of the Jardine pipes before I install them.

Here's some noise from the V&H:

Click to expand...
 
Kcwiro said:
Crap... your 1000 sounds mean... and your starter crap... mine does not have that kind of sound at all... I am only using bone stock exhaust that I got for $150 on ebay to get my rusted one off my bike but still...

I would get a 4-1 but a few things are stopping me...

1. Doubt I could jet the carbs on my own and tune it correctly

2. I use the stock airbox still and have been nervous about going pods without a good tutor on site working with me

3. Worried about scrappage...looks like it hangs so low on bike

4. Still don't feel my bottom end is up to snuff of what others here have, I could be convinced to change my mind on the deal but I'd need a seasoned rider to listen to my GS and let me know if it is healthy.... I think it is but I'm no expert...

...maybe I goto rally I convince some fortunate soul to gimme a leg up on this .... swap on site anyone? :-D
Click to expand...

Are you saying my starter sounds funny, or yours does? Mine sounds just like the one on my 1150, so I think it's normal.

If you kept the stock airbox on, you may not have to jet for a 4-1 pipe, but not sure. You also won't reap the benefits of the freer flowing pipe. If you go with pods, buy quality pods like K&N. They flow the best. Also buy the Dynojet jet kit specific to your bike. That will save you alot of headaches re-jetting.

the V&H pipe does sit lower, but it won't scrape in the turns. You just have to be more careful going over speedbumps and the like.

What's wrong with your bottom end?
 
renobruce said:
Are you saying my starter sounds funny, or yours does? Mine sounds just like the one on my 1150, so I think it's normal.

If you kept the stock airbox on, you may not have to jet for a 4-1 pipe, but not sure. You also won't reap the benefits of the freer flowing pipe. If you go with pods, buy quality pods like K&N. They flow the best. Also buy the Dynojet jet kit specific to your bike. That will save you alot of headaches re-jetting.

the V&H pipe does sit lower, but it won't scrape in the turns. You just have to be more careful going over speed bumps and the like.

What's wrong with your bottom end?
Click to expand...

Saying mine sounds nothing like yours meaning yours sounds like it is brand new spins up really fast, instant response. Mine takes a bit of work to start mine three or four cranks before bike fires...though my battery is bad and I have to replace it. Cleaning up my grounds too since the connector on my negative terminal was getting hot heating up red on long cranks which so is not right!...hopefully newer harness will help things out and the dielectric grease =) but no your bike sounds excellent.. and looks the part too! I'm just hoping I can get my wiring cleaned up / add a couple more grounds and get things looking like some of your bikes here.

Bottom end meaning I did not do the Rods / timing chain replacement or any tyranny work like checking the gears when I was rebuilding my motor... I kicking myself now wishing I had but I'm hoping i don't develope shifting problems anytime soon mostly I am fine once bike is warmed up which is to be expected. Pretty much no problems currently but I just have that feeling in the back of my head something is going to come up. I know there are bearings on the shaft with the gears amoung other things that something with > 40K (real mileage unknown - broken odo when purchased) I should have gone the extra mile to check everything with the shifting and chain drive mechanism, but I for some reason did not even go for checking them out by splitting the cases. I'll cross my fingers...
 
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I wanted to thank those that suggested keeping the Supertrapp's.

I removed the back half of the exhaust, gutted and cleaned the inside, dropped it off at the platers Monday. I picked it up today and here are the results. SWEET.

Photo005.jpg
 
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zuzu said:
I wanted to thank those that suggested keeping the Supertrapp's.

I removed it the back half of the exhaust, gutted and cleaned the inside, drop it off at the platers Monday. I picked it up today and here are the results. SWEET.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Now go get some "Blue Job" header cleaner and that pipe will look good as new!
 
renobruce said:
Awesome! Now go get some "Blue Job" header cleaner and that pipe will look good as new!
Click to expand...

Bruce,

I already got the headers cleaned and polished. I did use blue job, if use correctly I belive it will will bring life back to any blued header. Great stuff.

Anyone run there 4-1 uncorked?

I was thinking of putting the pipe back on without the baffles inside and see how she sounds\\:D/
 
Tony,

Start her up and let us know . . . that chrome plater did a nice job for you.

BTW how much carbon build up did you find in the baffle?
 
srsupertrap said:
Tony,

BTW how much carbon build up did you find in the baffle?
Click to expand...


I am glad you asked.

One of my thoughts when getting ready to pull the baffle out was that I could clean up all the carbon and soot that had collected over the past 22 years, letting the exhaust system breath better.
To my surprise there were hardly any deposits in the baffle or inside the pipe. I ran the baffle over a wire wheel to remove some very light rust in a few spots along with some very light carbon buildup. I used some oven cleaner to remove a very, very light buildup of soot from inside the pipe.
These pipes where made with quality material.

Here is a photo of the baffle after the wire wheel.

Photo-1.jpg
 
I recall a different test of exhaust systems from roughly 1980. I know that it was on a Kawasaki, most likely a Z-1. I think that they did rejet the bike as needed for each exhaust system, and they did dyno testing. Summary: Most aftermarket systems produced less power through the entire RPM range, and were noisier than the stock system. No aftermarket exhaust was quieter than stock. A few systems significantly boosted power in specific RPM ranges, but at the price of reducing power in other RPM ranges.

The articles conclusion: Kawasaki Heavy Industries doesn't make exhaust systems for all bikes, just for Kawasakis. They have a lot more money for engineering than any aftermarket exhaust manufacturer. Except for riding on the track, the OEM exhaust was better than any aftermarket exhaust in every way.
 
themess said:
. Except for riding on the track, the OEM exhaust was better than any aftermarket exhaust in every way.
Click to expand...

I think it's generally accepted that the 4X1's boost peak power at higher rpm's (seldom seen on the street) at the expense of some low/midrange performance. My understanding was that quality aftermarket products were also able to produce more hp than stock, because they were not subject to (or simply ignored) the stringent EPA/Noise limitations that the factories were/are required to adhere to in order to bring a new product to market. Lean jetting and restrictive exhaust systems for stock bikes was the result .Too,the Kawa in that particular test possibly sported a 4X4 stock system that might have been difficult to improve on significantly, in terms of free breathing.
Even if hp figures remain identical, going with a quality 4X1 system will shed some serious avoirdupois (a complete stock system (GS1100) weighs around 40lbs!), and that alone will be reason enough for some, (myself included ;)).

Tony.
 
supertrapp

supertrapp

Heres my supertrapp system

Its just a great system if you can find them
 
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