best way to remove carberator

[swiftmedia]

heres a little trick I came up with when removing the carberator. as you know its pretty tight in there with the airbox in the way, so what I did was was use a normal strap put it around the airbox and crank it light pulling it back, you can do the same with the carberator as well

 

[chuck hahn]

I have wrapped a strap across the carb throat and hooked it in front of the engine and ratcheted the carbs back in the intakes as well. works like a champ

 

[Steve]

Wow. Such effort. Never had to do that with my 850. :-\\\

.

 

[tkent02]

850s are easy. Especially with good boots.

 

[Guest]

I'll try to remember that for when I need it next. My 250 has REALLY tight clearance for the carbs.

 

[Katarat]

I take the battery box bolts out too, gives you a fraction more but every little bit helps. Warming the boots up with a hair dryer helps too if they aren't new ones

 

[Katarat]

I tried the straps both
ways and its a definite improvement, good ideas !

 

[jdvorchak]

On Honda and Kawasaki I'll push the boots back into the air cleaner box. They won't go all the way and they are easy to pull out. Give you a lot more room. On reassemble I mount the carbs and tighten them down then reach in and pull the boots back out to their normal position. Slide the box forward so the boots mount on the carbs and tighten them down.

If the boots a little stiff, once I get the carbs out, I'll pull them out. When I'm ready to mount the carbs I soak the boots in hot soapy water and get the carbs ready to go. The hot water soak limbers them up. Pop the boots into the air box, pushed in like they were when I removed the carbs, then mount carbs and pull the boots back forward onto the carbs.

It is a lot easier than it sounds.

 

[Guest]

I remove carbs and air box as a unit on GS 1000g takes all of about 5 minutes, i stall as a unit also

 

[1980GS1000E]

I just loosen the engine mount bolts and jack up the back of the motor a bit. Granted it is a pita, you have to remove some stuff, but it makes it so much easier to get them in or out.

 

[sbmisajw]

"I take the battery box bolts out too, gives you a fraction more but every little bit helps. Warming the boots up with a hair dryer helps too if they aren't new ones"
I'm with Katarat on this suggestion. I have 2 GS1100's. When I first got them I was removing and reinstalling the carbs many times trying to get the best performance results. I found that following really speeds things up and makes it almost easy to remove and reinstall the carbs. 1) removing the battery, 2) then removing the 2 bolts (10mm heads) that hold the battery box which allows the battery box to move back about 3/4 inch, 3) detach the rubber air-box boots from the carbs (a heat gun or hair dryer helps here also) 4) remove the 2 bolts (10mm heads) on the top of the air-box that hold the air-box to the frame, 5) make sure all hoses attached to the air-box are free, then carefully wiggle and slide the entire air-box out from the right side of the bike. Take care not to snag any of the wires. Now you have all the room in the world to remove the carbs by pushing them down and up pulling them back at the same time. A heat gun or hair dryer is again helpful. Good time to clean the top to the crankcase, back of the cylinders, check the condition of the chain tensioner for leaks and proper spring tension. Also while the air-box is out on the bench, it's a great time to clean it up and make sure it's sealing properly. Reinstall is the opposite except that I have found that it's much easier to reattach the rubber air-box boots to the carbs and then attach the air-box to the frame.
just saying!
sbmisajw