$75 is less than you were just willing to spend to have a shop tell you the same thing you learned here
Hard boots are no bargain
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$75 is less than you were just willing to spend to have a shop tell you the same thing you learned here
Hard boots are no bargain
K
kdupont
Guest
Is it just the rubber boot I need or is there some sort of tube that goes through the holes in the box that the boot attaches to?
Definitely hold off on the shop til you get the air box and a filter in it. Shoot Tom a PM and get it on its way and order a filter.
Heres the list that the part number cross to. And the boots have a groove in them that the metal of the airbox housing fits into. Its pretty self explanatory once youve got them in hand.
1980 GS850GL - AIR CLEANER (MODEL T)
1980 SUZUKI GS850GT - AIR CLEANER
1981 SUZUKI GS850GX - AIR CLEANER
1980 GS850GL - AIR CLEANER (MODEL T)
1980 SUZUKI GS850GT - AIR CLEANER
1981 SUZUKI GS850GX - AIR CLEANER
I have a great idea, I don't know why I did not think of it before, kill two birds as they say. Save money on the boots by using the old, and save money on the gym membership as you will get all the exercise he needs wrestling with the old boots.:-k
You have an evil streak that shows up at times. I like it.
What they say about a hose, "you can lead them to water but you can make them drink". But now if you kick them in the A$$.....
Steve
GS Whisperer
Right there is another reason your bike won't run. :-k
Stock jetting is 115 on the mains. With pods, you will need to raise that considerably, probably 125-130.
With a stock airbox, you will at least need 115s.
.
J
JMHJ
Guest
Rewind. Don't buy an incomplete motorcycle, and then expect it to run.
Nearly as good, but more expensive: after you buy an incomplete motorcycle, don't waste a lot of time wondering why it doesn't run.
Nearly as good, but more expensive: after you buy an incomplete motorcycle, don't waste a lot of time wondering why it doesn't run.
K
kdupont
Guest
Thanks guys. I drove out today to west 60 Cycle and bought a box from the salvage yard.....and what do you know.....IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MIND BLOWN!! Carbs need synced, but it runs. And it runs strong. Backfires a little on throttle down but I can deal with that.
Once again thank you guys for given me a gentle kick in the ass.
MIND BLOWN!! Carbs need synced, but it runs. And it runs strong. Backfires a little on throttle down but I can deal with that.
Once again thank you guys for given me a gentle kick in the ass.
G
Guest
Guest
Is it a backfire or just a popping sound? If it's a popping sound, your sucking cold air into the exhaust as you let off the throttle, thus causing the popping sound. Might want to check for hole in the system or a loose connection(s) somewhere.
Or the backfiring could be timing, carb syncing, too lean or too rich on the mixture screws. Point is to check each and every one of these items. Where is the mixture screws set at now..when its back fiiring?? Most have found that 2 1/2 out from LIGHTLY seated is about right mand you fine tune from there.
By LIGHTLY seated we mean you turn the screws in easy and when they stop going in you DO NOT force or thighten them any more. Take a sharpy and make a mark in line with the slot and use that as a reference point to count the turns out.
The you can do the highest idle method to get a good sound. Set the ilde at around 1200 to 1500ish Start with carb 3 ( 3rd from the left side of the bike ) and slowly turn the mixture screw in till it starts to sound like its gonna stall. The turn it out and youll hear the RPMS go up. Watch the tach also as you adjust. Once its set at the highest idle it will reach, readjust the idle back down to the 1200 to 1500 original point and do carbs 1, 2 , and 4. reset the idle after each carb as you go.
By LIGHTLY seated we mean you turn the screws in easy and when they stop going in you DO NOT force or thighten them any more. Take a sharpy and make a mark in line with the slot and use that as a reference point to count the turns out.
The you can do the highest idle method to get a good sound. Set the ilde at around 1200 to 1500ish Start with carb 3 ( 3rd from the left side of the bike ) and slowly turn the mixture screw in till it starts to sound like its gonna stall. The turn it out and youll hear the RPMS go up. Watch the tach also as you adjust. Once its set at the highest idle it will reach, readjust the idle back down to the 1200 to 1500 original point and do carbs 1, 2 , and 4. reset the idle after each carb as you go.
K
kdupont
Guest
Its more of a popping noise.
When you say mixture screw do you mean the one that comes from the factory covered by a plug? Because mine is still plugged.
When you say mixture screw do you mean the one that comes from the factory covered by a plug? Because mine is still plugged.
The one on top and at the back of the throats.
Take the tank off and hook up an auxillary tank. Be sure to plug the petcock vac line that comes off carb 2 also.
K
kdupont
Guest
Yea those screws are capped, Ill have to pull them out before I can make any adjustments. The only other screw I have access to is the pilot air screw?? I think is what its called, its on the venturri opening on the air box side.
Anyone use a colortune to adjust mixture?
Anyone use a colortune to adjust mixture?
The one on the front is the air jet and that gets screwed in all the way and snugged down..not anything adjusted there.
K
kdupont
Guest
Those screws are turned out. Ill screw them back in.
K
kdupont
Guest
I turned the pilot air screws back in, pulled the plugs out of the mixture screws and adjusted the mixture to two turns out for starters. I also sealed the air box boots up right so theres no leaks. After putting it all together it wont start.
You turned the pilot screws all the way in..as in the ones on the bottom by the bowls??? NO!! In your previous post you said the front of the venturie had a screw ( should be on the left bottom side ) ..thats the air jet i said gets tightened down and there is no adjustment for that!!
If you thightened down the BOTTOM screws and "snugged them" like i said for the FRONT air jets, you probably have jammed every needle tip in and broke them!!! For god sakes PLEASE PLEASE be exactly clear in what your describing to us.................FLUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you thightened down the BOTTOM screws and "snugged them" like i said for the FRONT air jets, you probably have jammed every needle tip in and broke them!!! For god sakes PLEASE PLEASE be exactly clear in what your describing to us.................FLUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!