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Bike randomly dies, than has trouble firing

  • Thread starter Thread starter David_510
  • Start date Start date
D

David_510

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So, i have a 83 gs550esd. I have posted a thread previously on this problem but have since than narrowed it down quite a lot.

Here is what is happening, Start the bike, it runs good and battery is charging it revs fine and everything... Than after about 5-8 minutes once it gets warm from idling it just dies. Than when i try to restart it, it kicks over fine and fires but won't catch. So it's like spin cough spin spin spin cough cough spin cough yada yada.

Anyone have any ideas? Maybe a broken wire that is getting warm and causing a short? Or a bad coil?
 
Hi,

Some ignition components, like the igniter or coils, can become thermally intermittent. But why do you let it idle for so long? Air-cooled engines need air moving over them to stay cool. Sitting and idling can cause them to overheat.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Right, i understand that, but when trying to troubleshoot i don't like breaking down while riding... So after it messed up i checked for spark. I have no spark. So im thinking ignitor?
 
Hi,

Here are some troubleshooting tips:

Igniter/Signal Generator/Coil Test
Igniter Repair/Testing (2MB PDF)

A bad ignitor is my first thought too. But test thoroughly before spending money on parts. First do all the simple stuff like checking and cleaning connections.

If you're going to sit and idle for a while, put a box fan or two in front of the engine to move some air across the fins.

Here's what I do when vacuum synchronizing my carbs:

carbsync-2fans.jpg


Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
A buddy of mine has an extra ignitor that he went to go get. So im going to put it on tonight and see if it makes any difference.
 
alright, so it was an ignitor off an 1100... it has the same plugs but the pins are different placement. So i moved my wires to to fit the pins (only had to move 2) and plugged it into the ignitor and still no spark...
 
so, im assuming an 1100 ignitor is not compatible? I plugged my connectors back onto my old ignitor and got spark....

Now my question is.. will and ignitor go in and out? Work for awhile then just stop randomly while the bike is running?
 
Hi,

Yes, electronics and semi-conductors can be thermally intermittent or physically intermittent. Intermittent problems are the hardest to diagnose.

Just in case you didn't click on the links above:

Igniter/Signal Generator/Coil Test
Originally posted by Mr. Billy Ricks


Here's how to check the ignitor. Remove spark plugs 1 & 2 and ground them to the motor so they will fire when they get power. With the ignitor facing you, the plug on the right side of the ignitor is where the signal generator plug fits. The two terminals on the right side of that portion of the ignitor will be pin 1 at the front and pin 2 at the back. The two left pins will be pin 3 in front and pin 4 at the back. Turn the ignition switch on. With a multitester set a the X1 ohm range put the + probe on pin 2 and the - probe on pin 1. Plug number 1 should fire. Next put the + probe on pin 4 and the - probe on pin 3. Plug number 2 should fire. If this happens the ignitor is good and the signal generators are suspect.

As for testing the pickups, signal generators, measure the resistance between the two wires on each pickup. You should get somewhere around 130-200 ohms. If the resistance is infinity or less than spec they are shot.

To test the coils put one probe of the multitester on each of the terminals on the primary side of the coil. You should get 3-5 ohms. Check the secondary windings by placing one probe into each of the plug wires coming from one coil. Those would be 2 & 3 from one coil and 1 & 4 for the other. You should get 30-50,000 ohms for stock coils and 15-20,000 for aftermarket.

Here is another procedure to test the igniter by Mr. almarconi

Remove the spark plugs of #3 and #4 cylinders, fit them into the plug caps, and place them on the cylinder head.

Remove the frame cover on the right side and disconnect the lead wire from the signal generator.

Connect (+) lead of voltmeter [set to ohms] with blue lead wire on the ignitor side, connect the (-) lead on the voltmeter with the green lead wire.

The moment the test leads are connected, the electrode of spark plug of #4 fires. The moment the test leads are disconnected, the electrode of spark plug of #3 fires.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I'm having a no spark problem, and think it's the ignitor. Can someone post a pic and/or where it would be on a 79 550? Thanks in advance.
 
Lol, atleast maybe he used the search function.

So i've done some reading and from what i understand i have to use a 550 ignitor.

Is this too say that i cannot make an 1100 ignitor work due to the timing and duration? Or are they just not compatible period? I've been toying with and 1100 aftermarket one and i can't even get spark.
 
If your 550 is a 79, then you don't have an ignitor (unless somebody retrofitted a newer ignition). Up to 79 550s used points, 80-82 used EI with mechanical advance and igniter, 83-86 used EI and igniter with advance curve electronically calculated in the igniter. Remove the ignition cover and look.

And start your own thread!

Pendulum said:
I'm having a no spark problem, and think it's the ignitor. Can someone post a pic and/or where it would be on a 79 550? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
 
I'm not sure about the 1100/550 switch, but this thread might have some useful information for you. Look at post #7.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=177631

David_510 said:
Lol, atleast maybe he used the search function.

So i've done some reading and from what i understand i have to use a 550 ignitor.

Is this too say that i cannot make an 1100 ignitor work due to the timing and duration? Or are they just not compatible period? I've been toying with and 1100 aftermarket one and i can't even get spark.
Click to expand...
 
I figured this thread was extremely relevent to my issue, and asking for a picture doesn't seem like a hijack to me. Why start a 2nd thread for a similar problem when all I needed was a picture?

Regardless, thanks.
 
Hi,

Pendulum said:
I figured this thread was extremely relevent to my issue, and asking for a picture doesn't seem like a hijack to me. Why start a 2nd thread for a similar problem when all I needed was a picture?

Regardless, thanks.
Click to expand...

To be fair, perhaps it is a similar issue. However, having more than one person seeking advice on similar, but different, problems in a single thread can get confusing. The original poster will not know if the answer is for his problem or for the hijacker, and vice versa. A single symptom can have many different causes and one solution or procedure will not work for another issue. Do you see how that can lead to misunderstandings?

Did you download the manual? It will tell you where your igniter is located, plus a lot of other handy stuff, like whether or not you have an igniter.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
No offense - your issue deserves its own individual attention is all I was saying.

Since your bike should be points ignition, you're going to have a very different troubleshooting tree.

Pendulum said:
I figured this thread was extremely relevent to my issue, and asking for a picture doesn't seem like a hijack to me. Why start a 2nd thread for a similar problem when all I needed was a picture?

Regardless, thanks.
Click to expand...
 
Hi,

mike_of_bbg said:
No offense - your issue deserves its own individual attention is all I was saying.
Click to expand...

Exactly! Don't be shy. Start your own thread. It's perfectly OK. These electrons don't cost much. ;)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Looked at post number 7 on that thread. Not so sure I understand it lol. I found a parts bike via Craigslist for 175 so I think I'm going to get it and hope the ignitor is good lol.
 
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