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Bike stalls after 5 minutes

Well, when vacuum to pet cock stops, fuel should shut off. If bike laying on side still running, still got vacuum pet cock is still open. I've heard Pingle makes a manual pet cock that fits GS's. Not sure if "ON" and" OFF, or "ON", "OFF", and "RES"... Just me, the OEM work well with little problems. Usually last for yrs. My opinion when you get yours working properly you'll be good to go. When you see the inside you'll see how stupidly simple they are. Don't know about a red neck lawn mower, in-line shut off, may need to raise the tank to reach it but should work as long as you don't forget to turn it off.... Sounds like a good thing rijko. Remembering back the old late 70's and early 80's Kawasaki KZ1300 6 cyl. came with elect. shut off's. Their problem was they mounted the shut off too low, down on the crankcase, you'd run out of gas when you still had about 3/4 gal. in RES.
 
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”Sounds like I'll have to pull out the petcock and try to get it to seal better by polishing like you said.“

pull it out and get new one and find something else to polish
 
Decisions, decisions. Also there's an "O" ring on a plunger that seals to the seat, check that "O" ring for any defects.
 
Well good news, it would appear that the bike is fixed! I was doing some research and a guy on a Yamaha forum mentioned how sometimes gas will leak past the rings and into the crankcase from leaky carbs, and will run fine at idle, then once the engine gets hot that gas in the crankcase will vaporize and go past the rings the other way and cause it to run rich and stall. .... I'm going to change the oil again just to be thorough and make sure it's all flushed out. Hopefully I didn't cause any damage from 20+ minutes of idling with gas diluted oil.

Anyway thanks to everyone who replied and helped me rule out other possible causes, you guys are great!

Well that makes sense!

I wouldn't worry too much about engine damage. Fuel dilution lowers the viscosity, but at idle its unlikely you wouldn't have been putting enough load on the oil film to destroy the boundary layers and thus the lubrication and allow metal on metal contact.

Plus the solvent activity of the fuel probably acted as a half-decent engine flush. If it sounds like it did before when running, just change the oil and filter, make sure the carbs aren't leaking and keep riding it.
 
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”Sounds like I'll have to pull out the petcock and try to get it to seal better by polishing like you said.“

pull it out and get new one and find something else to polish

I really like my petcock though, if I bring it over to your place can you polish it for me?
 
i have installed an electronic fuel valve on several bikes ao my Kawa GTR1000, which has no overflow tubes and is known for hydrolock.
Around 15$ off Aliexpress, hooked it up to a switched 12v ... Bob's your uncle.
They are not very big and my buddy mounted one on his GT750 as precaution.
Won't protect you if the petcock leaks into the vacuum hose but adds extra safety.

Hmmm that sounds like the best option, install and forget it. I'll look into that thanks!
 
Well that makes sense!

I wouldn't worry too much about engine damage. Fuel dilution lowers the viscosity, but at idle its unlikely you wouldn't have been putting enough load on the oil film to destroy the boundary layers and thus the lubrication and allow metal on metal contact.

Plus the solvent activity of the fuel probably acted as a half-decent engine flush. If it sounds like it did before when running, just change the oil and filter, make sure the carbs aren't leaking and keep riding it.

That's reassuring, yep I'll bet the crankcase is squeaky clean now lol. Changed the oil again yesterday and am going to take it for a ride today. Fingers crossed that its good to go now.
 
Cannot find the exact Tomasetto​ one on Ali**^&% anymore but here it is on Amazon : link
Unfortunately at 29 EUR, more expensive than when i bought it.
A search for Tomasetto​ EBAT0001 shows them for lower prices, hope you can find it cheap locally.
 

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Just a thought here, if when reassembling the carbs, did you by chance mess with the idle screw? If running rich on the pilots and the idle screw set too low it will die when warmed up. Just for poops and giggles try setting the idle screw a few turns more, like enough to make it idle fast at start up and see what happens.

just a thought

V
 
Just a thought here, if when reassembling the carbs, did you by chance mess with the idle screw? If running rich on the pilots and the idle screw set too low it will die when warmed up. Just for poops and giggles try setting the idle screw a few turns more, like enough to make it idle fast at start up and see what happens.

just a thought

V

So I figured out the problem, I had gas in the oil and it was vaporizing when hot and passing back into the combustion chambers and running rich. Changed the oil and the problem is completely gone. Rode for an hour Wednesday and ran perfect. Thanks for the comment though it was a perplexing problem and surprising solution.
 
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