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bike totally dead

  • Thread starter Thread starter oldchief-v
  • Start date Start date
O

oldchief-v

Guest
:(83 850 g turned on key everything fine . flipped on run switch everything fine. pull in clutch hit start button, hear click on left side below seat everything goes off. no function at all. main fuse good. what am I missing
 
I mean no power at all, no lights nothing. whats the diff between main fuse and starter fuse?
 
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Dead battery and/or dirty battery terminals?
 
Try putting in new main fuse (15 amp) - turn ignition on, BUT don't press starter button- do instrument lights come back on???
The ignition circuit (including the starter button) runs first thru the 10 amp ignition fuse and then thru main fuse to battery.
 
tom203 said:
Try putting in new main fuse (15 amp) - turn ignition on, BUT don't press starter button- do instrument lights come back on???
The ignition circuit (including the starter button) runs first thru the 10 amp ignition fuse and then thru main fuse to battery.
Click to expand...
Only if you are running things backward.
icon_eek.gif


When you first turn the key ON (before starting the engine) ALL the current goes from the battery, through the MAIN fuse, through the ignition switch, then back to the fuse box, where it powers the other three fuses, including the ignition fuse.

After starting the engine, there is now current coming from the R/R, so it joins in the junction between the MAIN fuse and the ignition switch. Because of the way electricity works, the bike will take all that it requires, anything left over will go back in the other direction through the MAIN fuse to charge the battery.

The "replace the MAIN fuse" suggestion is valid, as they sometimes fail where you can't see. However, the second part is a bit silly. If the current went through the 10-amp IGNITION fuse before the 15-amp MAIN fuse, it would blow the IGNITION fuse first. :o


By the way, I vote "Dead Battery" on this one. What does your volt meter tell you? You DO have one, don't you?

.
 
Bought new fuses cleaned batt terminals. Don't now which one it was but now it works .. Thanks guys for your input..
 
......" However, the second part is a bit silly. If the current went through the 10-amp IGNITION fuse before the 15-amp MAIN fuse, it would blow the IGNITION fuse first. :o"

Last time I checked (at start up before bike comes to life), the current powering ignition circuit travels thru 10 amp fuse back up to ignition switch and back thru main 15 amp fuse to battery. 11 amp draw in ignition circuit should trip the 10 amp fuse- might also trip the 15 main since headlight draw doesn't leave much to spare.
 
the way I see it is hot wire from battery through main fuse then to r/r, then to ignition,from ign to fuse panel,fuse panel to start button,not the other way around.I am glad he got the bike going.I vote for dirty terminals.
 
tom203 said:
......" However, the second part is a bit silly. If the current went through the 10-amp IGNITION fuse before the 15-amp MAIN fuse, it would blow the IGNITION fuse first. :o"

Last time I checked (at start up before bike comes to life), the current powering ignition circuit travels thru 10 amp fuse back up to ignition switch and back thru main 15 amp fuse to battery. 11 amp draw in ignition circuit should trip the 10 amp fuse- might also trip the 15 main since headlight draw doesn't leave much to spare.
Click to expand...

The O/W ignition load is only about 2.5 amps average. See the attached plot. This is the ignition load for a set of Accell coils/stock 83 GS1100ED ignitor.
Zero amps is where the "1->" is pointing with one amp per division.

I'm also not sure about your comment about current going through the 10 amp fuse first then the 15 amps. The fuse box is fed by the Orange wire from the ignition switch. That current is from either the R/R direct or fused battery.
 
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