bike wont charge...again

[Guest]

Three batteries, two stators, one new rr and still the same. I'll check out the self help.

 

[posplayr]

are you burning stators?

 

[Guest]

I dont know enough to know what i dont know. I need to do your tests. I suspect the problem is is the wiring somewhere. I do have one more stock stator if needed. I used a ricks last time.

 

[Guest]

I have a smaller than stock battery to fit the monoshock. I can go bigger if needed. I figured if it cranked over and did so without struggle it would at least stau charged once i was cruising.

 

[posplayr]

If you want some help, do the Quick test (see my signature) and report all numbers back here.

 

[Guest]

Will do. I only have a tester that reads 10 or 50 volts. I didnt notice untill i got it home. Its worthless.

 

[hillsy]

Will do. I only have a tester that reads 10 or 50 volts. I didnt notice untill i got it home. Its worthless.

Surely that is the calibration scale? IE: set it to 10 to read up to 10 volts.....set it to 50 to read up to 50 volts?

 

[Guest]

It is, but its pretty much impossible to even tell where 12v is on the 50 scale. Ill just pick up a good digital meter tomorrow. Im so glad this site it here. Otherwise, I'd be spending a small fortune at the dealership.

 

[hillsy]

On second thoughts that is a bit of an odd scale - most multimeters work on a 20v DC scale then 200 or so after that. And 200v and 500v for AC.

 

[Guest]

OK, I got a good tester. I couldn't make noise in the garage tonight so all I could do is the "key on" test. It dropped .8 volts. Not a good start. The battery is not a stock battery. I believe it is spec'd for a 400cc bike. Still, I'd think it would charge once the bike was running, as opposed to going dead WHILE riding.

 

[JTGS850GL]

You need to do all the running tests before you can draw any conclusions.

 

[Guest]

-12.4 resting. Fuse blow above that when charging
-11.7 after key is on for 10 seconds with fuel pump and headlight on
-12.3 at 2500
-12.0 at idle
-12.4 at 5000
12.37 after shut off

 

[posplayr]

-12.4 resting. Fuse blow above that when charging
-11.7 after key is on for 10 seconds with fuel pump and headlight on
-12.3 at 2500
-12.0 at idle
-12.4 at 5000
12.37 after shut off

Your numbers are out of order, are they correct?

You are charging very little but some; certainly not enough to keep the battery alive. The Key on voltage of 11.7V is a little low but if you are running a fuel pump that is to be expected.

When did this thing ever charge?
Did you follow the wiring recommendations in GS Charging Health?
Did you change the stator? Stator is probably bad.
Do the Phase B test for the stator make sure to do both teh leg to leg tsts (should see 80VAC)and the leg to ground tests (should see 0 VAC).

 

[Guest]

I charged it with a 1.5amp charger. I'll check the legs next. Its a replacement reg rectifier. Pretty sure it was a Ricks. Stator wasreplaced too. I have another stock unit i can try out.

 

[Guest]

I measured the voltage at the battery terminals.

 

[posplayr]

Well if you replaced both R/R and stator and followed the directions then perhaps you shorted out the stator on installation. Do teh Revised Phase B tests as mentioned. A stator problem will likely show up.

1.5 amps is a trickle charger and not a charger. A GS charging system puts out about 3-4 amps and that only works if the battery is not too discharged.

 

[Guest]

Will do. I'll have to wait until morning though. I did test the fuse block. Weird thing, each of the 5 fuse holders show lower voltage than the one above...meaning the top fuse holder shows 12.2, the second one down shows 11.5, the third one down shows 10.2, etc. This can't be normal? Also, the 15 amp fuse was hot when I pulled it. Maybe I should up it to a 20 amp as it has to run a fuel pump as well?

 

[posplayr]

Will do. I'll have to wait until morning though. I did test the fuse block. Weird thing, each of the 5 fuse holders show lower voltage than the one above...meaning the top fuse holder shows 12.2, the second one down shows 11.5, the third one down shows 10.2, etc. This can't be normal? Also, the 15 amp fuse was hot when I pulled it. Maybe I should up it to a 20 amp as it has to run a fuel pump as well?

It is hot because it is dirty, those old glass fuse boxes will melt if you do not clean it. You problem might just be maintenance if you can get close enough to do a reasonable test.


This is what the fuse box looks like. Pop of the back, dip it in naval jelly and let it set 15 minutes then wash it out. Soldering teh crimps is best. get a little flux, electronics solder and some DeOxit.

 

[trippivot]

let's take this in steps. step 1 AC induction and total potential.

let's take this in steps. step 1 AC induction and total potential.

VERY WEAK ..FIRST THING you need to know is if you are creating electrical power and how much !!! The stator creates AC FIRST and it gets converted to DC by the rectifier. ok?

unplug the 3 AC wires going to the R&R -- put your meter scale to AC == 100 volts about max. if you have a swing needle (analog) and need to know what scale to use... and take measurements of AC voltage generating from the stator - 1-2, 1-3 , 2-3 at idle and mid range rev like you did before only we are testing AC potential - all your charging power starts from the stator.

if at idle speed RPM the AC voltage is below 26 AC volts on any of the 3 combinations of stator wires - you NEED A NEW STATOR . period.

however if you are getting a minimum (idle) in the 30 range and a maximum of 80~100 or more your stator is GOOD. move on --


I had an issue that plagued me with nearly exact readings/symptoms like you posted. bike in question made plenty of AC - good R&R but weak DC at the battery.

- my problem ended up being that the owner had both hi beam and low beam of the headlight wired to operate at the same time.

post the AC readings and we can move on.

 

[posplayr]

unplug the 3 AC wires going to the R&R -- put your meter scale to AC == 100 volts about max. if you have a swing needle (analog) and need to know what scale to use... and take measurements of AC voltage generating from the stator - 1-2, 1-3 , 2-3 at idle and mid range rev like you did before only we are testing AC potential - all your charging power starts from the stator.

if at idle speed RPM the AC voltage is below 26 AC volts on any of the 3 combinations of stator wires - you NEED A NEW STATOR . period.

While nothing is perfect, Frank's has updated the Phase B tests to add some important elements. As as currently written there are:
1.) ohm meter tests for leg to leg continuity. These are essentially worthless due to the inconclusiveness but there are there primarily for historical reasons.
2.) There are leg to leg tests which specify 5000 RPM (unlike your suggestion). It is better to go to a full 5000 RPM because the voltage is higher and stator break down is more likely if there is compromised stator.
3.) Finally what you have omitted is probably what has proven to be the most useful test for stator diagnosis is leg to ground tests also at 5000 RPM.

http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

There are still ambiguities in stator testing that are not obvious from a first read of the Stator Pages. I have detailed many of the issues of stator testing here:

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3977567/dummy-load-scanned-pdf-may-14-2012-8-24-pm-649k?da=y

however if you are getting a minimum (idle) in the 30 range and a maximum of 80~100 or more your stator is GOOD. move on --

I would hope I have made it clear that this statement is false. You can not prove a stator good you can only prove a stator false unless you operate the stator under full load and ,measure the results.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...f-Stator-testing&highlight=law+stator+testing