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Blue Sea 5029 Fuse Block Modification

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hakamisu
  • Start date Start date
H

Hakamisu

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Anyone see a problem with this?

I may do it a tiny bit different only because I am re-doing the entire harness from scratch and would like to seperate systems (ie - Lighting, Indication, Power/Charging, Ignition and Accessories).

View attachment 19833
 
Here's an update of what it will look like when finished, hopefully.
Fuse%2520Panel%2520Drawing%2520Concept.jpg


Can anyone tell me why the ignition turns on the lights separately from the fuse? would it matter if I fused it after the Power Sitched Relay?

EDIT - I Have no idea why I would have put ignition out after the switched power? No I will not be doing that.
 
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I confess myself confused. The Blue Sea 5029 is a 12 fuse distribution block with 1 in, 12 out. At the bottom is your input. All the fuses are considered outputs. You show a disconnect between the bottom 4 fuses and the top 8 fuses. How (and why) are you going to do that?
 
In addition to koolaid's fine point, there's too many fuses for my liking. A fuse to the power relay, a fuse from the power relay, etc etc. Granted it works but it's very messy and overly complex.
 
Killer, I agree. It seems far too complex and should be simplified. It was not apparent what was powering the upper set of fuses either.

I use a Blue Sea 5028 on my GPz. I use what folk here call the "coil relay mod" as a generic relay mod which sends clean power from the battery as the input. I then have 6 fuses with clean power as outputs.
1 goes to the battery health wire
1 goes to the coils
1 goes to my aftermarket horns
1 goes to my grip heaters
1 goes to a generic 12V adapter. I currently use this when I have my wideband connected, but it could also be used to charge other things that need 12V, or could go to a heated vest or similar items.
1 is unused.

If you wanted to emulate a stock Suzuki fuse block, you would want at least 1 unswitched fuse, which Blue Sea does not have available. The Eastern Beaver unit does have this capability, but I refuse to pay their prices.
 
It may seem unnecessarily complicated, but as I am re-doing the entire wiring harness from scratch (doing a new wiring diagram as well), it makes more sense for me to do it this way. I think it will be easier to follow once I have it all redone.

On the note of how I will separate the 2 parts of the fuse block. You just remove the back and clip a section out. It was done on another forum I found and is quite simple. Pictures will follow once I get one in.
 
Seeing your last post, I can now see how you are segregating the switched power from unswitched. However, inline with the other comments you don't have to fuse every wire. Those are screw terminals and you can stack the commons and eliminate redundant fuses.
For example even thigh not labeled I would assume the red wire coming up from the bottom is the battery? Almost all of the 4 lower fused outputs could be ganged on to one fuse assuming it will handle a 20 amp fuse.

What connection do you need to a start relay?
You also have two fuses to the ignition?
 
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The reason I am separating, mostly, is I think it looks cleaner and I've been working on aircraft so long it's easier for me to work with. Again, once you see the new wiring diagram it will make a little more sense.

Also, there will be multiple wires on certain terminals as almost all items in system will be on seperate wire, don't worry, not all. Even I think that's excessive. It will just make it easier in the long run when replacing things.
 
I guess we should all just wait till it is done. You asked before if anybody could quote you the various circuit loading and then you let on that you were in the process of led mods. I'll just sit back and see how this unfolds.
 
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The Blue Sea will handle 30A per circuit, so the load capability is there.
It is a pretty big block though, 5.23 x 3.32.
It will be interesting to see the final layout.
 
koolaid_kid said:
The Blue Sea will handle 30A per circuit, so the load capability is there.
It is a pretty big block though, 5.23 x 3.32.
It will be interesting to see the final layout.
Click to expand...

I think the question was posed in the context of wire size.
 
Ah. Most of the factory wires were 18-20 gauge, and of course LEDs would pull even less current.
 
Them 2 ignition lines was an accident on my part (note the EDIT).
As far as the loads are concerned, I'm looking for everything but lighting and indication really. I'm also using a wire calculator for the gauges, which is why I want amperage for different components.
 
I'll give it a first shot and we can work on it from there.
For the bottom section, top left counterclockwise to the top right:
To Starter relay - this needs to be a heavy gauge wire as the starter can easily pull 50A or more.
To ignition switch - this can be a smaller gauge, I think Suzuki used 18 gauge. The ignition switch's main function is to enable everything else.
Center is to the battery. I'd use at least 14 gauge, perhaps 12.
To power relay. This is going to carry the current for all the switched side fuses, so I would again go large, 14 gauge.
To R/R - This is the input from your charging system, go large.

I'll do the switched side in my next post.
 
Switched side, again top left counterclockwise to the right.
From power relay - this is carrying all the current for everything, go large
Lighting - this should actually be headlight. It is separate from all the other lights. Your headlight uses at least 65W on high beam, use your wire gauge calculator. Be sure and leave a little headroom.
Turn indicators - you have 4 bulbs. Check the wattage of each, add them up, convert to amps, remember you are driving the flasher as well.
Ignition - this should actually be called the Igniter. Stock uses 18 gauge wire. All it does is collapse the coils, so it does not need to be large.
Moving to the right - accessories - this is probably all your bulbs in your instruments and the driving lights. Should not be too much.
Above that you need one labeled coils. 18 gauge.
 
Thanks KK. This was a huge help.

I will be running the headlight (Going to a LED, at 11W w/ about 1A), Tail light (new LED about .5A) and turn signals (new LED .3A all together) on the same fuse, different circuit of course. Sometimes I wish I was faster at drawing the diagram to show what I mean, but I want to do this right the first time.

I also found the relays will draw about 140mA on the power side. I also believe they take about 1A to activate. Can someone confirm this?

The start/kill switch is just going to activate the relay so I would assume about 1A again?

The actual ignition switch (the key) is going to a 2 position only just to activate the power relay, safe to assume 1A again.

So most of the 1A stuff is safe to go 20 or 22 AWG and for the Hard power stuff (Starter, Battery, R/R,) I will go with 12 AWG (mostly because I have lots of it) and for the coils and ignition box stick with 18 AWG (this seems small to me for the coils, maybe 16 AWG)

EDIT - Starter with a potential 50A pull, will be moving to 10 AWG (drops it to 1.7% V drop) and might as well do the same for BATT to fuse box too.
 
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I agree with your assumptions, although I would not go any smaller than 20 gauge. I like to leave a little headroom, plus remember there is always surge current when turning something on.

One other suggestion, I did this on my GPz. since you are starting from scratch, I suggest wiring two relays in parallel. This gives you redundancy in case one fails, plus it lessens the load on each relay. I put a small Normally ON push button switch in each activation line. I can turn that relay off to test if the other one is working.
I use 86 to turn mine on, but there are many ways to wire them and they will still work.
Also, I used high quality relays so the chance of failure is (hopefully) lessened.
Good luck.
 
koolaid_kid said:
I agree with your assumptions, although I would not go any smaller than 20 gauge. I like to leave a little headroom, plus remember there is always surge current when turning something on.

One other suggestion, I did this on my GPz. since you are starting from scratch, I suggest wiring two relays in parallel. This gives you redundancy in case one fails, plus it lessens the load on each relay. I put a small Normally ON push button switch in each activation line. I can turn that relay off to test if the other one is working.
I use 86 to turn mine on, but there are many ways to wire them and they will still work.
Also, I used high quality relays so the chance of failure is (hopefully) lessened.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

I definitely like the idea of paralleling the main switch (if there is enough space). I am going to be putting in a "Relay Box" of sorts, since I will be having at least 4 (now 5), and will be using the Bosch style connectors for ease to swap if needed (this may alleviate the need for paralleling). We'll see.
 
Why do you feel the need for more relays? With your design there is really no need to do so.
I used the Bosch connectors but removed them because they took up too much space. But it does make it easier to swap them out.
Also, please note most are marked 30/40. The 30A rating is for 87 and 40A is for 87a. You can get higher current relays, but on a GS which cannot output anywhere close to 30A I did not see the use.
 
Hakamisu said:
Can anyone tell me why the ignition turns on the lights separately from the fuse? would it matter if I fused it after the Power Sitched Relay?
Click to expand...
If somebody already answered this, I did not see it, and I apologize, but I am going to answer it anyway.

If you follow the wiring for the lighting circuit, you will see that power comes from the fuse, then up to a connector that feeds power to the headlight beam selector. Somewhere near (in?) that connector, power will branch out, and a gray wire will feed the instrument lights and also send a gray wire to the ignition switch. There, it will be bridged to the brown wire when the ignition switch is in the RUN position to provide power to the tail light. Why is the tail light separate? Because if you put the ignition switch in the PARK position, the brown wire for the tail light is bridged to the red wire that comes from the main fuse, and will power the tail light as a warning device while parked on the side of the road. Note that you don't want to leave it there very long, a good battery might only last for about half an hour.

.
 
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