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Bogging down gsx250e after a mile always and stops

clutch cable :
Out for a test ride. clutch cable snapped. stranded.
fixed with emergency cable repair.
(I don't ride round with a spare clutch cable in uk)

to do that you must cut one end and affix
a suitable grommet end at the handlebar end.

this got me.home. clutch cable ordered !
 
Pet tap :
I could not with human suction hear the pet tap seal thing go out and in.
WHICH I COULD
on others I have in box with the correct spring.

the spring must be the issue as it is not the right one. that is lost on the garage floor the second it dripped out.

is it a case of chop down other spring and hope that works .. ? spose has to be
 
If you have another pet cock, in a box, remove spring from that one to see what kind of spring you will need. I'd think the length, dia., size & strength of material it is made from is very critical, Just me, sort'f close probably will not work correctly. Oh yeah, UKjulies, you've taught me something about the cables. I'd never heard of a fix for them, always thought got to be replaced. Thanks for the tip.
 
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Cables:
def keep a temp fix cable in toolkit. the first time I used it mind I needed snips a didn't realise. Very hard to cut and I'd you don't it won't fit !
Work cutter and temp cable in toolkit.

pet tap:
I don't have a single pet tap like the one in question. I have many gsx and others and the springs are not the same.
So I can ow never know what the spring was like or size.

thus I have a spring in their that clearly is producing too much force. I can only cut it down in increments and hope for the best.
 
Update
-GSX250
Using the good GS swapped over RR all is good. Chucks out 13.8v .
It just fits moving wiring and igniter about.
As most said ages ago it was indeed the RR. I am yet to buy the series RR.

-GS550E
This using the old suspect battery which was on GSX and RR I had in my stock.
I don't know why i changed this
previously. It is one with a sense wire
but chick's out a steady 14.5v.
First run on charged battery all OK.
I am yet to buy the series RR.

ISSUES:
- GS550E
snapped clutch cable on test

- GSX250E
Petrol tap spring lost. This on the one
tap that worked perfectly with prime ,
on and Res and nozzles in right position
and cheapish.
 
Had to buy these:
Meccion Stainless Steel Wire Rope Cutter 8-Inch CR-V Cable Cutter for Aircraft Bicycle Cable, Steel Cable, Wire Rope, Spring Etc, Cuts Up to 1/5-Inch https://amzn.eu/d/d0r50v8

so I can tidy up emergency clutch cable I used and use again.
Didn't realise normal wire cutters just won't cut a good edge. made it difficult at the roadside with normal wire cutters.

Now I have the length I can cut one ready and tape end......
 
Have some Retsina or Ouzo. Should make you decision even more clear. :-\\\

I can recommend gin and lemonade (not carbonated) with a splash of Mastic Tears.... mind you, a couple/three of these (the way my wife makes them) and decisions go out the window.
 
Wire cutters superb ! straight through all te strands leaving a clean edge. I would never have realised the hassle trying to cut the cable unless I broke down and was hell bent on using my emergency cable (that's slides through te original plastic liner).
Now have 2 cables in boot cut to right length in case clutch goes again.

I also for my own amusement as I'm on a roll only used tools on the bike to change to new cable.

Right gin and lemonade time .
gs still fine with the suspect battery and regulator i found but with sense wire.
 
Conclusion :
gsx250e- it was the regulator. swapped and re jigged my gs550 RR and been fine ever since.

I am yet to buy the mega RR I linked of the right type but if my 550 one fails I will.

GS550E- on this I have my old sense wire RR, Which for some reason I took off (as suspected this many years ago)
Anyway old gsx battery (which the gsx RR almost destroyed) and that old Sense wire RR , and ride to Fairford air show and back and all good.

All I can say how a faulty RR reveals itself sends you on a merry go round of possible fixes. I had the carbs off many times and bench tests on the RR basically said it was OK!!!!!!
clearly I assume it was not OK when it got hot (which it did , very ).
Thanks all.
 
UPDATE:

It has happened again !!!
Good battery
Seemingly good RR off my GS550E which worked fine.
Been OK for a few 15 miler rides.

Can get about a few miles now then dead no elec bar ignition light. no horn , lights or start. I leave say 5 mins then can go a mile again ?

This has totally got me now ? What on earth do I test now ?

I'll immediately swap batter and rr back to 550 and make sure they are fine.

Help !!!!
 
Multiple short trips at an average insufficient rpm result in depleted batteries.
is it the battery you've used all along? If so its very likely cooked.
 
It is my new battery from.my gs550e. it was
in perfect condition.
Now off and tests at 12.7v So this time
the zero elecs bar ignition lights is not
the battery. it can't be RR either.

I think we can assume this issue was hiding behind the prev RR issue now fixed.

(the old gsx battery that had been on during this debacle, is now on my gs and is restored! zero issues. iv done 2 100m trips on it)

I can test stator tomorrow ?
and prob coils. you guys want that analysis ?

I just can't see what else it can be ?
I can now never ride this again in fear of this type of breakdown so all tests must be near my house.

I was saved today amazingly by a chal in white van who stopped put bike on back and lift back to my house .
 
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My 550 spec is 75 VAC at 5000 rpm. Stator test is easy to do. Measure each leg and check to assure there's no shorting to ground.
An El cheapo voltmeter that you can monitor while riding would be helpful.

your description is classic gs undercharging.
oddly in spite of three oem reg/rect failures my stator works perfectly.
my compufire unit works perfectly.
 
I'll do some tests on stator and coils tomorrow.

It simply cannot be the RR or the Battery.
I can put them both on GS and it would
work perfectly.
 
Update:

This morning battery 12.7v. thus it should start bike. ignition only nothing else works.

- if I bridge solenoid terminals starts immediately no probs at all. As soon as I take of connection stops dead.

So this is a electrical issue ? What could cause that as there is no reason it should just stop ?
 
Update:

Started too look at the plate that the RR, Solenoid and igniter etc sits on. It is also the earth to these items and rear lights indicators.

So re checked wires , cleaned , renewed some but noted the entire plate is only earthed to bodywork via a rusty / dirty tab. See picture.

This is clearly a bad earth possibility and a hopeless design.

So I have cleaned the tab and again it will stop but won't if I hold the tab firm to the bodywork.
So now I xan always start it if I hold the tab to the bodywork.

How on earth do I redesign that tab to work as an earth ?
 

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argh. I'll run a wire from plate to a good earth
that done ... again OK.
I'll test 1m around home as cannot ever have this issue 10mipes out again.

stator test with all working - 75vac on all combinations.

surely this must be a fix !!!
 
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