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Bought 750e two days ago, now it won't start

  • Thread starter Thread starter dagreatgatsby
  • Start date Start date
I've taken off on a 500 mile round trip drive with a bad alternator in my autocross car so I could run it. Threw a couple tractor traier batteries in the trunk, but didn't even need them.

Lots of people associate charging system problems with running problems, but they are unrelated. Your ignition does not care where the electricity it needs comes from. If you run out of electricity, you run out of spark, but a charged battery is as good as a functioning charging system to the ignition, until it loses its charge.

They will run a long time on a full battery without a headlight. Discovered that my CBX wasn't charging in Cantwell (don't know when it failed). Pulled the headlight fuse and rode it to Fairbanks. That is 150 miles with no charging system, assuming I discovered the problem when it occurred, which is unlikely.
On the family tours I use my GS fleet for, it has been the plan, in the event of a charging system failure, to pull the headlight fuse, then ride until it shows signs of poor ignition, then, then switch out the battery with another bike.
 
not to be a hijacker, but... I like that heat sink idea, but would it be better to use a thick piece of aluminum instead of copper? I was thinking that the alum. would absorb heat quicker, and dissipate it to the atmosphere faster too. Ill go whatever way seems most logical.

Also the R/R has a copper heat sink on it to help draw away any heat from the R/R and get it into the frame. That will be much more effective than any computer fan.This was one of the first modifications I ever did to the bike.[/QUOTE]
 
I first changed out the stator, rectifier, and battery. The problem was still there. I then changed out the ignitor, coils, and the signal generator, but the problem was still there. I then changed out the starter solenoid, but that didn't work either. I finally changed out the starter, and bingo! It was the damn starter all along. The bike now starts up straight away and doesn't die out. The bogging when going from a standstill and at 5000 rpm is also gone now.


i remember old chryslers and some g.m's snd fords , when the starter worked but ws soewhat faulty the vehicle either ran poor or not at all and intermitantly, just my 2 cents and rememebering vehicles i troubleshot and repaired years aggo,(wow feeling old now). hm
 
i remember old chryslers and some g.m's snd fords , when the starter worked but ws soewhat faulty the vehicle either ran poor or not at all and intermitantly, just my 2 cents and rememebering vehicles i troubleshot and repaired years aggo,(wow feeling old now). hm

That is because back in the day of points ignition on GM and Chrysler vehicles the factory ran a direct wire from the starter solenoid to the coils bringing a direct 12 volt Booster which is only powered when you are turning the engine over on the starter. Kind of like our coil relay mod but only active when the starter was engaged. Now that is going back aways considering electronic ignition became the norm in or around 1973
 
not to be a hijacker, but... I like that heat sink idea, but would it be better to use a thick piece of aluminum instead of copper? I was thinking that the alum. would absorb heat quicker, and dissipate it to the atmosphere faster too. Ill go whatever way seems most logical.

You want to get the heat to transfer from the R/R to the frame. The aluminum and copper are probably about the same, the main issue is to get the heat into the frame from what ever you mount the r/r to. By wrapping the copper around teh frame it gives good heat transfer.

Once the heat is in to the frame it distributes itself and the frame is exposed to the air which takes away the heat.
 
i remember old chryslers and some g.m's snd fords , when the starter worked but ws soewhat faulty the vehicle either ran poor or not at all and intermitantly, just my 2 cents and rememebering vehicles i troubleshot and repaired years aggo,(wow feeling old now). hm

There was absolutely nothing wrong with the way that bike ran. It might not have started (I have idea why not), but it did not miss and would always fire instantly even when stone cold.
 
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the way that bike ran. It might not have started (I have idea why not), but it did not miss and would always fire instantly even when stone cold.
Speaking with Chef he thinks he remembers the starter dragging which if I recall might have likely have been the case. The bike did start nearly instantly so that starter drag was not that obvious.

The starter certainly will not affect the way it runs or high RPM miss.

Glad it finally got sorted, even though all those other parts were changed out. :o
 
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