Bouncing electronic tachometer GSX 1100 and GS 1150 1984

[rapidray]

Bruce, it's NOT your tach! That's how SLOW stock motors rev!!! I just HAD to!!! LOL!!! HAHAHAHAHA!!! Ray.

 

[Guest]

You need to remove the back of the brass workings, clean out the old lube and put some new in there, I also backed the tension nut off a little on the back, like 1/8 of a turn and it worked better.
search out another thread where I replaced the green and the little blue 'thingies' on the circuit board, that also helped.

could you elaborate a little more on what you mean. Im not sure what you mean by the brass workings, or the tension nut. Thanks.

Ive got a new (to me) board and I tested it and it registered so im putting it in right now and Ive got a modification to the cluster Im going to try before I put it back together.

 

[Guest]

is the nut on the back center of the tach itself? I took a shot and loosened it up a touch and the tach reads better than it did, its not as sluggish but it still seems like its reading way low. It reads about 1000RMP at idle and I can rev it and it goes up but it sounds like the bike is revving waaay higher than its reading. Just by ear im not comfortable going over 4000RMP via what the tach is telling me. I dont know how to see if its right other than compare the speed if I take her down the road.

 

[Guest]

I can rev it and it goes up but it sounds like the bike is revving waaay higher than its reading.

That is exactly what my tach does on my 1150. Funny thing is, when I grab the cluster and push it up little the needle goes up about 500 rpm. That's why I think maybe a cleaning will help.

 

[Guest]

maybee we have something mounted wrong and its hanging up on something inside??

 

[Guest]

also, the nut on the center of the back of the tach has a flat screw in the middle, should i adjust anything there with the flat head screw, hold it in place as I turn the nut or just turn them both together???

 

[Clone]

Memory is not my friend, so the nut is the one on the middle of the back of the tach works, on mine it is brass, has some indexing paint on it, on the other side of the peice with the screwdriver slot is the cup with lube in it. Your tach will not rev above 6000 reliably until all the components on the circuit board are replaced and the lube freshened. I replaced everything except the black chip in the middle, all the resistors, capacitors(twice) and the blue and green chips.
After that it reved freely all the way up nicely. I will add that I did that the third time I had it apart because it was a last resort. Take the circuit board to an electronics shop that carries all the components, leave with two of everything, in some thread on here I posted all the values, for what I could replace.
For lube I used slick 50 in the lube cup, be careful of the tension, move the needle as you tighten it back up. the needle should gently drop, not snap back. It is spring loaded to return to zero, now it should have a lighter motion after the lube is replaced.
One other thing I did, I don't know if it helped or not was to run another ground wire from the back of the assembly incase the connections on the ground side were not so good (i don't think they were as the entire bulb set would blink a little with the signals).
Apart from tinkering with it all like this, I have no real skill with electronics, just trial and error.

 

[posplayr]

Memory is not my friend, so the nut is the one on the middle of the back of the tach works, on mine it is brass, has some indexing paint on it, on the other side of the peice with the screwdriver slot is the cup with lube in it. Your tach will not rev above 6000 reliably until all the components on the circuit board are replaced and the lube freshened. I replaced everything except the black chip in the middle, all the resistors, capacitors(twice) and the blue and green chips.
After that it reved freely all the way up nicely. I will add that I did that the third time I had it apart because it was a last resort. Take the circuit board to an electronics shop that carries all the components, leave with two of everything, in some thread on here I posted all the values, for what I could replace.
For lube I used slick 50 in the lube cup, be careful of the tension, move the needle as you tighten it back up. the needle should gently drop, not snap back. It is spring loaded to return to zero, now it should have a lighter motion after the lube is replaced.
One other thing I did, I don't know if it helped or not was to run another ground wire from the back of the assembly incase the connections on the ground side were not so good (i don't think they were as the entire bulb set would blink a little with the signals).
Apart from tinkering with it all like this, I have no real skill with electronics, just trial and error.

I'm wondering if you had confirmed failures of other than capacitor through hole components. Generally all discrete components would be very reliable, except the caps that tend to dry out. I was wondering if you tried with just the caps only or did you have to replace all to finally get the tach to work correctly?

 

[Clone]

I replaced the capacitors (barrel shaped) twice by themselves. Then when it still didn't work right, I took the whole circuit board with me and got everything that could be replaced (except the long black chip) and changed the lube. What worked? I think both as it is good now.