Brake bleeding-can't get any pressure!

[djg42]

Hello, I just put double disc front brakes on my gs450, I can't seem to get any pressure at all, I can't see any leaks and umm getting fluid from both bleed screws, I must have spent two hours and still nothing. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Dennis

 

[cowboyup3371]

Did you ensure you bled the MC before doing the calipers? Sometimes air being trapped there won't help the rest of the system.

 

[Guest]

That is strange if you are actually able to get both bled properly, well enough that brake fluid is coming from each bleeder. Really the only thing could be air in the lines, best method I've used is a simple syringe connected to the clear hose from the bleeder and suck the fluid and air right out the lines, works like a charm.

 

[BigD_83]

+1 on the syringe method.

Did you get the master cylinder new? Did you clean and/or rebuild it?

My bet is air in the caliper wells...happened to me on my Rebel. I fixed it right up with the syringe method

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Seen this before so I am going to ask it first. Are the bleeder screws at the TOP of the calipers? More than once I have seen calipers re-mounted on the wrong side and that puts the bleeder down low, allowing you to get good fluid but air trapped above.

 

[850GT_Rider]

Hello, I just put double disc front brakes on my gs450, I can't seem to get any pressure at all, I can't see any leaks and umm getting fluid from both bleed screws, I must have spent two hours and still nothing. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Dennis

Only 2 hours? You're about a third of the way there.

Watch for real tiny bubbles in the fluid coming from the bleeders. If you see those, it ain't fully bled out yet.

Posted elsewhere is a helpful hint: Pull the brake lever in and tie it up overnight. That can sometimes help work the air out too.

Does the brake line from the master cylinder exit DOWN? It's very easy to end up with a slight rise, which will trap air.

New brake lines?

Seen this before so I am going to ask it first. Are the bleeder screws at the TOP of the calipers? More than once I have seen calipers re-mounted on the wrong side and that puts the bleeder down low, allowing you to get good fluid but air trapped above.

+1 on that!

 

[Jedz123]

I have one of these guys.

You can find them online for cheap and it gets the brake bleading job done really quick... I change my brake fluid twice a year (allot of rain riding) on all my bikes and this little guys helps me get the job done in 15 minutes or so, by myself!

Here a link to one. http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=GgeoTonyJqPJ0AHOw-H-DQ&ved=0CH8Q8wIwAA

 

[Rover]

Just got one at Harbor Freight myself,look forward to using it.

 

[mpencegs]

I use an air check valve that is used for fish tanks. Basically put line on bleeder valve then air check valve on line. This causes fluid and or air to be able to exit the system without allowing anything back in.. This works great for me.. I got the air check valve at the pet store for 3.00 bucks..

 

[djg42]

Thanks for all the great replys! I had put the calipers on upside down , I assumed they would only go on one way, I did the Kawasaki brake upgrade and put the ninja calipers on.
Anyways, thanks for all the brake bleeding tips, Im definitely going to try them out once I get the calipers correctly mounted. I have a syringe i was going to attach to the bleed screw and pull fluid that way, do I have to do anything with the brake lever?

I might go for one of those vacuum bleeders, $30 is not alot to spend to make the job easier.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Thanks for all the great replys! I had put the calipers on upside down ,

YES! :dancing:
I'm going to chalk up another one to "It's the simple things that bite you." Trust me you are not the first... or the last, thats why I suggested it. It should go much smoother now. Congrats!

I use an air check valve that is used for fish tanks. Basically put line on bleeder valve then air check valve on line. This causes fluid and or air to be able to exit the system without allowing anything back in.. This works great for me..

BRILLIANT! I have thought about buying a set of the "speed bleeders" for that, but I already have two of those air check valves not being used from my aquariums... THANKS!

 

[BigD_83]

Yes, you have to tie the brake lever back or have someone hold it for you. Make sure you don't let the volume drop so low you start sucking air. Keep replenishing the master cylinder as you draw the fluid and air out with the syringe. Keep going until no bubbles come out with the brake fluid.

Be careful, as you draw the fluid you are going to create pressure in the syringe, and the fluid will want to spit out of the tubing when you pull it off the bleeder. If you have a small syringe (~20cc), it is going to take a number of draws to get the air out. Wipe up anything you spill right away with some soapy water.

You might also want to use a dab of grease around the bleeder nipple to seal it against air and to ease putting the tubing on and off.

-EDIT- I find pumping the brakes a few times prior to opening the bleeder helps to remove the last little bit of air and get that rock solid feeling back.

 

[Dogma]

Yes, you have to tie the brake lever back or have someone hold it for you.

...

This should not be necessary when using suction to pull fluid in from the reservoir. Some will tie the lever and leave it overnight to allow a bobble trapped in the master to escape into the reservoir.

I like the idea of greasing the bleeder threads. Some people suggest wrapping them in Teflon plumber's tape to keep air from from leaking through.

Keep the body of the syringe lower than the end of the hose, and you shouldn't have more than a few drops of fluid when you take the hose off the bleeder.

 

[BigD_83]

Dogma,

To be honest, I never tried doing it without tying the lever back. In my mind I was thinking that if you were puling fluid out along with air, you would just want to replenish it at the same time.

Can you see any harm in doing it either way?

 

[Dogma]

Dogma,

To be honest, I never tried doing it without tying the lever back. In my mind I was thinking that if you were puling fluid out along with air, you would just want to replenish it at the same time.

Can you see any harm in doing it either way?

No, it shouldn't matter, technically speaking. I usually finish with a couple cycles of the old pump it up, bleed, pump, bleed if I'm not happy with the results of the vacuum. So, having the handle tied already would interfere with my usual process.

 

[1_v8_merc]

I used Mighty Vac, worked like a charm on a horrible Honda with dual
pistons.

Also make sure the brake lines aren't clogged.

 

[Steve]

Yes, you have to tie the brake lever back or have someone hold it for you.

This should not be necessary when using suction to pull fluid in from the reservoir.

Can you see any harm in doing it either way?

No, it shouldn't matter, technically speaking.

Actually, there is a difference.

With the handle in the normal, relaxed position, fluid can go freely through the bleed hole and travel down the lines.
With the handle pulled, you will have to draw the fluid past the seal of the master cylinder piston.
It will do it, but it might take a little more effort.

.

 

[djg42]

thanks everyone, once I got the calipers right side up things went very smoothly. Used a syringe and got the brakes bled pretty quickly. Thanks again!