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brake bleeding ... i'm gonna go nuts!

  • Thread starter Thread starter bikerzx7r1981
  • Start date Start date
Parts fiches do not show an 82 1000..either its an 82 1000s or an 1100G..In any case, number 3 is the dust boot and number 2 is the piston seal that fits in the groove in the 3 caliper body. Now that youve stated you didnt rebuild anything this points me to believe you should. Remove the pistons and inspect for any rusting or pitting..they should be absolutely spotless on the OD that rides against the seals. Next remove that old hard seal and clean the groove in the caliper body so its as clean as you can get it..free of all that hard chalky scale youre gonna find. Clean all the hardened brown brake fluid out of the caliper .Install an new seal. Lube the seal and piston with a wipe of brake fluid when you put the piston back in. Here the caliper schematic for the front. I will post the master cylinder and rear brakes in the following post.

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fich...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1982&fveh=2157
 
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many thanks, and i will do this.

I just wondered though, if th pistons were leaking would i see fluid coming out/ going down in the master cylinder?
 
Like Chuck says - look at those pistons very closely. Any chips or rust -they're junk. If you get new ones get the stainless ones (they're usually cheaper than OEM) and don't use the rubber boots.

If your seals are hard replace them. If they're soft you can reuse them (they're rip off expensive here - i think the UK ones are made of platinum).
 
bikerzx7r1981 said:
many thanks, and i will do this.

I just wondered though, if th pistons were leaking would i see fluid coming out/ going down in the master cylinder?
Click to expand...

The usual leak will show fluid leaking out on the lever (above and / or below so look at both sides). Any damp there at all is suspect.
 
If you reuse the seals..be sure to clean any stuck on scale from them too..you can use a thumb nail to scrape and clean them up. I think your catching onto the overall theme emphasizing the word CLEAN...A dremel with the wire wheel works well to clean the grooves, or a very small wire wheel mounted in a drill..
 
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chuck hahn said:
If you reuse the seals..be sure to clean any stuck on scale from them too..you can use a thumb nail to scrape and clean them up. I think your catching onto the overall theme emphasizing the word CLEAN...
Click to expand...

Did Chuck mention clean? Just in case he didn't......:D

Chances are the brakes have never been to bits and still contain crap in there from 30 years ago. If you look in the MC you will see a tiny hole and then an even tinier one (my eyes can't see the tinier one anymore). If you have any crap in the system as small as that smaller hole you can end up with a problem. Hence clean.
 
bikerzx7r1981 said:
Well i opted to buy a Bandit master cylinder, hooked it up and instantly better, even when bleeding it I got all the air out.
Click to expand...

If you have a lever that pulls to the bars you still have a substantial amount of air in the system. If you have a "semi-firm" lever that pumps several times to a firm feel, you still have a trace amount of air in the lines,
 
Entire systems need to be gone thru first though or else hell never be able to tell good from bad.
 
right just to update you all,

its frosty outside and the garage has no heating , but i know how ecellent brakes, i bled them upside down and rotated them abit and hey presto loads of air, now the brake are fantastic....

cheers for everyones time and help
 
bikerzx7r1981 said:
i bled them upside down and rotated them abit and hey presto loads of air, now the brake are fantastic....
Click to expand...
Huh? Is that because your bleeders are broken and you bled through the banjo fittings... So you removed the calipers and rotated them to make the banjo fitting the highest point? Just trying to wrap my head around your fix...
 
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Hoosier Daddy said:
Huh? Is that because your bleeders are broken and you bled through the banjo fittings... So you removed the calipers and rotated them to make the banjo fitting the highest point? Just trying to wrap my head around your fix...
Click to expand...


Yeah pretty much, but also tilted them on the side etc, literally while i had a mate pumping brakes i was turning the caliper around while opening and shutting the valve, one caliper just suddenly had loads of air in it. the brakes are absolutely fantastic
 
So the bleeders were operational then...thats weird. They are positioned to be at the highest point so all air will go up and out them. Funny that there was a dead pocket that had anything trapped!!!
 
Chuck he snapped off the bleeders so replaced them with the bleeder-in-the-banjo-bolt type. So now the bleeders sit low - where the banjo bolt sits (obviously). I've done loads of these (our boys are really good at snapping off rusted up bleeders) and the trick is to swivel the caliper round on the top mounting bolt (usually) so that the banjo bolt bleeder becomes the highest point in the caliper.

By keeping the caliper semi-mounted and straddling the disc you don't have to hunt around for something to keep the pads pushed open while you pump the brake lever for bleeding.
 
I hadnt read that detail in the posts. A good trick if the bleeders are stuck, is to heat the bleeder as hot as you can with a torch and then quench it with a flow of cold water..do this a few times and then some penetrating oil and they will usually snap free rather easily. If they come out but are full of rust down the holes, then heat them and quench them a few times and run a wire in and clean them out. The heat and sudden contraction from being cooled will crack the rust and oxidation loose almost every time.
 
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