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Break bleeding tip:

  • Thread starter Thread starter DannyMotor
  • Start date Start date
D

DannyMotor

Guest
If youve just installed new lines and performed master cylinder rebuild and caliper rebuilds... its going to be HARD to get your lever and pedal to firm up by just pumping the crap out of it.

The problem is all of the air in the calipers and line acting like a cushion... not allowing the fluid to flow. A vacuum bleeder helps to eliminate this issue... but if you dont have access to a vacuum bleeder you can do the following.

When youve filled the reservoir, take the banjo off the caliper and pinch it between your thumb and forefinger to seal off the open ends. Pump (or have a friend pump) the lever until you can feel a pressure change in the banjo. Pull and hold the lever... release the banjo and re grab the banjo then release the lever. Do this a few times until fluid pumps out of the banjo. Now reattach it to the caliper and pump away to build pressure and bleed as normal.

For dual disc fronts... start on the clutch side and finish on the throttle side. On the rear brake, bleed the inner piston first and end on the outer.

Works like a charm.
 
Thanks for sharing. It's a problem that all riders experience at some stage.

I usually back bleed through the caliper to the master cylinder, but will try your method next time. Cheers ;)
 
2nd on the mighty vac! I hate these brakes by the way... No Mater how much I bleed them they still feel to soft at the brake lever. Any Recommendations on that?
 
Pump the hand lever as hard as you can and hold it as tight against the bars as you wrap a bungee around it to hold it and leave it that way over night..Take off the bungee in the morning and let the lever release...youll be amazed!! As for the rear..do the same thing and jam something to hold the lever down and let it set as well.
 
Also, get some speed bleeders. They make brake work MUCH easier.
 
my friend had this idea of bleeding his car brakes by 'gravity bleeding' them. He hooked up a line onto the nipple, opened it up with the line going into a catch can and then walked away. It worked... Or at least it appeared to work. It ran his entire system dry and then had to start all over. I showed him the ''pump the pedal until it's hard and then hold while I open the bleeder'' method. He was amazed. The best way definitely seems to be some sort of vacuum. I have a fluid evacuator that works amazingly well. Basically a huge mighty vac, only you pump it manually to pressurize (or depressurize if you will) the tank and then open the valve.
 
Let it be known that I absolutely hate bleeding brakes... in the worst way.

But yes... squishy brakes can be cured with the bungee/ziptie trick on the bars overnight.
 
DannyMotor said:
Let it be known that I absolutely hate bleeding brakes... in the worst way.

But yes... squishy brakes can be cured with the bungee/ziptie trick on the bars overnight.
Click to expand...

I second that. Not looking forward to doing mine......once I get my bike back together. I just hope they will cooperate with me.:pray:

I have done that bungee thing before, but not for that reason...but yes my brakes where more 'stiff ' in the morning.
 
mighty13d said:
my friend had this idea of bleeding his car brakes by 'gravity bleeding' them. He hooked up a line onto the nipple, opened it up with the line going into a catch can and then walked away. It worked... Or at least it appeared to work. It ran his entire system dry and then had to start all over. I showed him the ''pump the pedal until it's hard and then hold while I open the bleeder'' method. He was amazed. The best way definitely seems to be some sort of vacuum. I have a fluid evacuator that works amazingly well. Basically a huge mighty vac, only you pump it manually to pressurize (or depressurize if you will) the tank and then open the valve.
Click to expand...

Or replace the bleeders with speed bleeders, pump the brake until fluid flows steadily, close the bleeders, tie the brake lever and come back after a few hours. Good to go.
 
Hmm. I thought bleeding my brakes was the easiest thing I've done so far on my bike. I must have gotten lucky. I used the old pump,hold, and crack the bleeder method.
 
I have tried almost all of these, with the exception of the let gravity do it method, and still have almost half of the lever travel used before it starts to bite.

Done the bench bleeding, used the MityVac and tied the lever back...same old, same old. Had better braking before I rebuilt the system and added the stainless line.

So far, this is the job that has pretty much beaten me. Managed, with help and advice from the board, to get everything else done and seen major improvements. Not the brakes.
 
I am not sure about the rest of you but,
I hate to take a break because of my bleeding finger tip.

Eric
 
oldrookie said:
I have tried almost all of these, with the exception of the let gravity do it method, and still have almost half of the lever travel used before it starts to bite.

Done the bench bleeding, used the MityVac and tied the lever back...same old, same old. Had better braking before I rebuilt the system and added the stainless line.

So far, this is the job that has pretty much beaten me. Managed, with help and advice from the board, to get everything else done and seen major improvements. Not the brakes.
Click to expand...

When I had this problem, it was a leak at one of the banjos. Check all your connections for seeping or drips.
 
MisterCinders said:
Or replace the bleeders with speed bleeders, pump the brake until fluid flows steadily, close the bleeders, tie the brake lever and come back after a few hours. Good to go.
Click to expand...
You sound like you've used speed bleeders before Mister Cinders. Can you tell me how I can find out what size bleeders will fit my bike? I know my rear caliper is Tokico and I think the fronts are AISIN (?) but i don't know the part number or any other details. Otherwise I'm tempted to take the bike to work and try out the BG pressure bleeder on it ;)
 
oldrookie said:
I have tried almost all of these, with the exception of the let gravity do it method, and still have almost half of the lever travel used before it starts to bite.

Done the bench bleeding, used the MityVac and tied the lever back...same old, same old. Had better braking before I rebuilt the system and added the stainless line.

So far, this is the job that has pretty much beaten me. Managed, with help and advice from the board, to get everything else done and seen major improvements. Not the brakes.
Click to expand...

That is EXACTLY where my front brakes are now... 1/2 lever, nothing happens. 1/2 lever to the grip 100% braking power.

So unnerving. I have no weeping issues, and everything is 100% dry. So, I think I may have to remove the calipers, c-clamp the pistons and ensure the bleeder is pointed straight up.

That and I'm getting a new Master Cylinder... so that should help.
 
I am right there with you guys, I had a 1/2 lever of travel, and then it started to bite and get really hard, this I think is ok as I wouldn't want full bite right off the bat, just in case I grab a handful of lever one could end up doing a face plant..

I rebuilt everything, and new ss lines as well, and following the book, pumped the lever a few times, held, and opened the valve, closed valve and pumped a few times, held and opened the valve, did this a few times, saw no more bubbles, I then pumped the lever until it got hard, held it back near the throttle and tied it off for the night

next morning, undid the strap, and now after about a 1/4 lever travel, I am feeling pressure, and the brakes are grabbing, mind you this is so far only in the garage and not braking while the bike is being ridden, have not gotten to that point yet, but they sure do feel good, right now
 
No leaks in mine. All new parts, with the exception of the diaphragm in the M/C. My line is a little long now as I had dirt bike bars on the bike previously and have gone to Superbike bars. May want to try some Daytona bars, so not cutting the line.

No change in brake feel or performance, so may take yet another shot at bleeding the system. Think I'll take the caliper off the bike and get the line as straight as possible and see if that helps get the air out.
 
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