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broken bolt help

  • Thread starter Thread starter 80GS750
  • Start date Start date
As far as "anti-seize" goes: I have a bunch of old hot-rodders as friends, and one of them suggested using Milk of Magnesia as an anti-seize compound. I have yet to try it (I use the copper stuff) but the guy who suggested it to me (retired) used to work on gas turbine engines. He said that they were constantly having problems with one certain type of engine having seized bolts that they would have to send back to the factory to have corrected. The factory rep came out one day and told them to use MOM on the bolts. Just to dip the bolts in it before installation. He has been using this on his exhaust bolts for years with out one sticking on him. Apparently MOM is chalk and water. Chalk will not burn at exhaust temps. It will discolor, but it will still be there as a barrier between the dissimilar (or similar) metals.

YMMV
 
And if the stuck bolts are giving you indigestion, a little for the bolt, and a sip for the mechanic.

E.


steely said:
As far as "anti-seize" goes: I have a bunch of old hot-rodders as friends, and one of them suggested using Milk of Magnesia as an anti-seize compound. I have yet to try it (I use the copper stuff) but the guy who suggested it to me (retired) used to work on gas turbine engines. He said that they were constantly having problems with one certain type of engine having seized bolts that they would have to send back to the factory to have corrected. The factory rep came out one day and told them to use MOM on the bolts. Just to dip the bolts in it before installation. He has been using this on his exhaust bolts for years with out one sticking on him. Apparently MOM is chalk and water. Chalk will not burn at exhaust temps. It will discolor, but it will still be there as a barrier between the dissimilar (or similar) metals.

YMMV
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
Just a comment, There is cheap and there is quick. Usually, neither of those approaches work with old motorcycles. You really do need to get a manual for the bike. If you need to remove the head, you will need a new head gasket, base gasket, stud "O" rings. The camchain does not get separated. The tension is taken off the automatic cam chain tensioner and the cams "rotate" out from under the cam chain. You will also need the torque table for the various bolts and you will need to understand how to set up the tensioner for re-installation. It does NOT just bolt back into place. There is a proceedure that must be followed. You will also need to know which way various marks MUST be aligned and how to "roll" the cams back into position and the correct pin count on the chain between marks.
The cams do not get installed on the marks straighaway. The rotate onto the correct mark during placement. I dont expect you quite understand what I'm trying to convey. thats why you need a manual. Yeah, you will need to read it word for word, because the word you skip will be the one thats the cause of the bent valves you will have if you dont.
There are no quick and easy ways. Either its right or its wrong. LOL
Welcome to the GSR. We really do try to help around here, but I know sometimes it may not seem so. hehehe

E.
Click to expand...

thanks man, i do understand what you mean. i was looking at the way it was put together and noticed it would be tricky. i will definately get a manual if i tear it apart.
 
terbang said:
Psyguy, I picked up a tube of copperslip in CHC years ago and I am sure it, or similar, is available in any good engineering suppliers. It is just a type of grease that has a component (copper I guess) in it that survives the heat of an exhaust port. Best preventative maintenance that I have ever used.
Click to expand...
yup, i see, like a high melting point grease. that's what i use too.
but do you have studs and nuts as oposed to bolts?
cheers
 
well i got the head off and to a machinest, and i should get it back on wednesday! then i can work on getting it back together..... whoohoo!!!!
 
I have the same problem with a couple of bolts but they've been like that for a long time. I just found out cause I was investigating backfiring problems and looking for exhaust leaks. So I don't think I'll be trying it myself... but anyway, please let us know how it goes with the machinist and what they charge for that kind of thing, I would really appreciate it.
 
One way to remove the front wheel on a GS is to loosen the 4 nuts at the bottom of the fork slider. Unfortunatley one stripped so I removed the leg and took it up to the local dealer. He put a quick weld onto the stud and using a stud removal tool out it came.
I thought, that's easy, I'I just change the other three. One came out the other two snapped like carrots flush in the bottom of the slider.
The dealer drilled them out for me and fitted new studs... cost was the price of the studs!!!

They also time certed the spark plug hoels in my cylinder head and that cost me £20 ($40 approx)

The GSF1200 I have is fitted with stainless bolts as standard. They come out every time. On e**y people are selling studs to replace engine bolts. If you can get brass nuts to fit then the studs can be fitted and left as brass will not seize to steel.

Suzuki mad

1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200K1
 
thats some good info.....

he is charging me up to 50 a bolt. i think its a little pricey, but i hear this guy is really good at what he does so oh well, he said the 3 bolts could cost me around 150. ouch

that puts quite a hole in my wallet for the gs fund.
 
Owwooch.

I thought Robin hood lived here in Nottingham (Sherwood forest country) but he appears to be alive and well near you!!!

I would hope at that price he does a top job.

Suzuki mad
 
yea i think cause i am young he figures i am ingorant and dont know any better, i know its too much, but i dont care as long as he does it right and i get my bike back on the road the way it should be
 
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