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Bs32 fuel height tube diy

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Can anyone help me with the materials to make some type of adapter to run tubes out of the float bowls to confirm float heights on CV’s? The part i cant wrap my head around is where you can find some tube threaded for the bowls when it’s difficult to even find screws with that thread. I believe it’s 5mmx0.5? Or do you need to purchase this online somewhere?
 
Take a bowl to the hardware and look in the nylon bolts for one that screws in..or another one long as threads match. Put ssaid bolt in a drill press and drill a hole through it. Lowes and Home Depot have clear vinyl tubing
 
Or get some clear plastic tube and a few hose clamps.

I heated the hose up a little and flared it out to fit the outside of the drain. The hose wants to slip off, but it works for long enough to get the job done.

 
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I made this outta what I could find on my workbench several years ago. I used to clamp it over tbe outside of the drain like Burque posted, but the last couple times I?ve used, it I just pressed it on... it stays just fine.
I drilled out an old grease fitting from the whatever bin, and used heat to stretch out one end of some tubing over the float drain; the other end just screwed over the threads of the fitting.
I usually check the fuel heights with the bike idling. I?m not sure if that?s even necessary, but seems like it?s more accurate. You can draw lines 5mm, or whatever distance your looking for on the thin tubing; this way you can just hold it up next to the carb to check.
 
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Thank you all for the ideas. Never pictured something that just clamps on.

the one thing I hate about doing this is emptying all the gas in the bowl and the mess that makes. Need to see if I can find a short container to catch the drips in this time. There’s several things I’m finding I ought to have to make these things go quicker. Like large hemostats to pinch the gas line or a remote gas tank. I’m a welder, you’d think I’d have fabricated something like that by now. I’d also like to find some kind of quick disconnect for the fuel lines on my bikes.
 
I've read, and believe, that a tuna fish can, or a cat food can work great for this. I don't eat either, so cannot confirm.:lol:
 
Rich82GS750TZ said:
I've read, and believe, that a tuna fish can, or a cat food can work great for this. I don't eat either, so cannot confirm.:lol:
Click to expand...

Flat tins of herring work well. Eat the herring first, though. It's dreadful once petrol-doused.
 
I bet those both work a lot better than the maxipads I normally use.
 
Tom R said:
IView attachment 60744
I made this outta what I could find on my workbench several years ago. I used to clamp it over tbe outside of the drain like Burque posted, but the last couple times I’ve used, it I just pressed it on... it stays just fine.
I drilled out an old grease fitting from the whatever bin, and used heat to stretch out one end of some tubing over the float drain; the other end just screwed over the threads of the fitting.
I usually check the fuel heights with the bike idling. I’m not sure if that’s even necessary, but seems like it’s more accurate. You can draw lines 5mm, or whatever distance your looking for on the thin tubing; this way you can just hold it up next to the carb to check.
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting. This is a way better setup. While you guys are well aware of this, I figured it's worth mentioning that according to the service manual, checking the fuel level while the bike is running is the correct way to do it. I could never do that with the straight tubes I used.

Just out of curiosity, have you ever compared the fuel height measurements taken with the carbs on the bench with having them on the bike running?

In looking through the manual, I noted that the VM carbs have a different float height setting (23-25 mm) than the CV carbs (21.4-23.4 mm). Just an interesting bit of info, not really related to this discussion though.

Oh, I concur that a container small enough to fit under the carb drain is way better that a rag.
 
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The fuel height for the bs34’s is 5mm below the carb body, Not sure about the VMs. That’s what your trying to accomplish by setting the float height.
There was significant variation on the original BS34s when I checked the fuel level... even though the floats measured spot on. However, after setting the float heights on the BS36’s I’m running now, the fuel level was 3mm across the board, which is spec.
I really don’t have a functioning prime option on my ‘80 petcock, so it’s just easier to check with the bike running.
 
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Well i gave it a go this weekend. Initially I used some 3/8? pvc tube from my brewing supplies and these brass 90?s that had threaded ends that approached the 3/8? size. These were nice to fit in the tight space but I really had a hard time keeping this setup from leaking. PVC is terrible stuff to work with. Ended up getting some half inch ID and a 3/8? plastic hose barb 90. This worked a little better but I only checked the #4 carb which was sitting right in front of me.
I took a static measurement and also while running and they were exactly the same. I have my floats set exactly at the 22.4mm suggested for the BS32?s and my measurement was in the 5mm ball park. I?d still like to do the other carbs because 4 wasn?t the cylinder I?m having problems with.
I never realized float height can actually be used affect the mixture. It?s the next step in the tuning process after the main and needle. I tested the main and needle and believe they are really close. I was a little bummed because that brought me back to tuning the idle which I wasn?t having any luck with. But then I learned I can tune with float height.
Depending on how the rest of the heights look, I think I?m going to try lowering my height 2mm and see if it leans out my idle enough for me to turn the screws out some and get a lower smooth idle.
If not I?m back to the pilot jet. And I?ve never heard of someone going lower on the pilot with a pod setup.
 
My 1100G recently put back together... varied over the first 150 miles getting richer until it started to overflow pretty sure one wasn't sealing). They were towards the rich end of spec when I set them & when I measured again they'd moved by about 2-3mm. I guess the valve springs have gone week. Certainly the one that felt worse by hand was the main culprit for leaking.

Amazing how it richened up the whole bank of carbs across the range. As soon as I rode it with the new float valves & set to stock settings I could tell the difference. :)
 
I had the screws in pretty far during my test drive and got a lot of popping on decel with the throttle closed so I was lean-on idle but it still stalls if you try to set the idle under 2k. I’ve had leaky valves on both GSXRs and I definitely know how to identify that. Pretty sure they’re ok but the jury isn’t in just yet.
thanks for your experience
 
Could be an exhaust leak, could also be a vacuum leak elsewhere. Generally you'd want to make the circuit richer to cure popping I would think....
 
Tom R said:
These guys spell it out nicely.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
Click to expand...

thats exactly what I’ve been going off of for my latest tuning procedure. Bike is only lean because I have my mix screws turned in quite a ways from my last attempt to tune the idle circuit. I could get the engine to stay running under 2k rpm by turning them completely in but not reliably and it wasnt smooth. I’m getting extra gas from somewhere which is why I’m playing with float height right now.
 
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