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BUILDING AN I.C.B.M. KATANA 1100

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
oh YEAH i ALREADY HAD A hd BEARING INSTALLED IN THE TRANNY IN ANTICIPATION OF AN OFF SET SPROCKET SETUP
 
Haven't been able to ride the last few days but have it running better.

I thought I had posted this but can't find it. I am running with a disconnected excelerator pump. Runns much better with less backfire and poppin. the air screws are at 1 full turn but not quite right yet.

More ridin and more tunin needed.
 
Katman,

Nice work - looks great.

I noticed in one post you took the oil cooler off. You also say you are running the 1150 cover. I'm not sure that is a good idea to remove the cooler using that cover. I hope you put the 1100 one back on.
 
Swanny said:
Katman,

Nice work - looks great.

I noticed in one post you took the oil cooler off. You also say you are running the 1150 cover. I'm not sure that is a good idea to remove the cooler using that cover. I hope you put the 1100 one back on.


Noooooooooo, took off the 1150 cover. Running the stock 1100 cover until I get another cooler....Thanks for the heads up though.
 
RacingJake said:
Sounds like's she wants more fuel. Go big jets.

Jake, I'm not into the jets yet. She is poppin and burpin between 2 and 4k @ 1/4 throttle?
 
She is coming alive now. I had a ignition rotor problem...it was very sloppy. Made quite a diff and tonight I put in some number 20 pilot jets and oohhhh man, crisped her right up.

Still the odd burp though the header but its onto fine tuning now. I am going to raise the needle a notch and I think that will do it and the rest will be fuel mixture.

One thing I have to do is get a push/pull back on it. The carbs doooo hang up which keeps me on my toes. Speaking of carbs....they sure are noisy...

I have to do a pace session to. I don't think my speedo is correct
 
Well.....she is running nice now. up to 6.5 k anyway. pulls hard.

A little lumpy below 3k but what can you do with flatslides and cams. barkin and fartin are gone. here is the set up. 130 mains, 20 pilot, needle is one down from neutral, air/fuel 1/2 turn.

I put a set of 33 smoothbores on for a test and found the flatlsides make quite a racket. I haven't opened her up yet..only 250km on her now, just going to run her in abit and enjoy being on the road again.

I have picked up two sets of front ends. 2003 750 and a 2001 gold 1000. I think I am going to put the 750 front end on and sell the 1000 with a drop triple. I have 2003 wheels so will try to mount them.

As if I hadn't worked enough on this. The 03 rear wheel has a huge axle so I am going to cut and reweld some 1000 axle supports onto my bandit arm so it will accept the axle.

after a few hundred miles I will take it to the dyno for fine tuning and get some output numbers.
 
We await those numbers :)

Glad to hear it is on the road though. I hope to be right behind you buddy.
I am still at the mercy of my engine builder on this one. Pushing hard.

Glad one of us got something done.
 
we are all waiting Mark.
Kat i am exited about your bike too. I know i will need you for the swing arm mod when i get my toy back.
AIt is good that you and others also post some of the results because it tells the rest of us many things and also what we may expect with majir mods.
 
the handling improvment is fantastic over stock. I am diving into the bandit swingarm install. It is all measured and fitted. The brake peddle pivot arm is reworked and all I need now is shock mounts which it will be going into my welders this week for. I may or maynot under brace it now but maybe later.

performance wise I am still tuning. With 700km on it I am into the mainjets now and they are lacking. I have some 135's and 140's coming cause the 130's wont feed her over 7000 @ full throttle. I am just enjoying the riding for a while and putting some miles on. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is very quick and no problems.She cruses at 170kmh nicely very stable on the highway...like a rock...

I can get her healed wayyy over in courners so clearance hasn't been a porblem and I gave her a little blip @ 3500k in first and she stood up and said hi.

I am verrrrry happy with the suspension mods and as soon as I sort out the tuning....welll.......what can I say...it has all been worth it. I found a set of polished 93 rims that I have put on and I think they look even better than the blue ones.

As I was sitting on the garage floor looking at my creation....I had a thought.....don't be surprised if next year you see a new pic with an under seat exhaust????
 
Nice job

Nice job

Nice job Katman. The bike looks very well thought out and your finish work is A plus. It is my opinion from looking at the pictures that the bike would benefit from increased rear ride height and more swing arm droop. Once you get used to riding it, see how well it finishes the turn, especially with the gas on. If it tends to run wide, and I suspect it will, you should consider more swing arm droop. This can be accomplished by adding shock length and or repositioning the shock mounts. you will not believe how much better the bike will steer. Look at the pics of the Yoshimura Superbikes from the early eighties. They did this for a reason. Steve
 
SO your thinking about installing a seat heater huh?

That would look awesome :)
 
Re: Nice job

Re: Nice job

maru said:
Nice job Katman. The bike looks very well thought out and your finish work is A plus. It is my opinion from looking at the pictures that the bike would benefit from increased rear ride height and more swing arm droop. Once you get used to riding it, see how well it finishes the turn, especially with the gas on. If it tends to run wide, and I suspect it will, you should consider more swing arm droop. This can be accomplished by adding shock length and or repositioning the shock mounts. you will not believe how much better the bike will steer. Look at the pics of the Yoshimura Superbikes from the early eighties. They did this for a reason. Steve

That is being done as we speak. I just finished locating the shock mounts on my bandit arm and raising the rear about two inches. that is my limit as the chain will be eating the pivot if it goes any higher.
 
rear ride height

rear ride height

You are going to love what that does for your handling. I am very impressed with the bike. You should be proud of yourself, you did a really nice job. Steve PS I would be interested in hearing your comments with respect to the rear ride height changes once you get a chance to feel it out.
 
Those mono-shock swingarms are about 5 times the weight of a GS swingarm. I don't think you'll need under bracing unless your going for a certain look.
 
Sawing on swing arm.

Sawing on swing arm.

Just read your post on the limits of rear ride height being the chainline intersecting with the nose of the swingarm. That is the practical limitation on the amount of swingarm droop that can be obtained on these older bikes . Often the handling would continue to benefit with even more swingarm angle but it just isn't physically possible. you can sometimes by additional clearance by using the largest countershaft sprocket that is posssible and then running the largest rear sprocket that makes sense in terms of your gearing rquirements. Generally, most bikes optimise at about 12.5 degrees of swingarm droop from horizontal when both front and rear suspensions are topped and both tires barely touching the ground. I measure fom the ground to the center of the swingarm pivot and the ground to the center of the rear axel and the length of the swingarm from pivot to real axel. Then I divide by ten(to keep the size reasonable) and plot it out on paper to scale and measure the angles with a protractor. The ground must be level and the bike must be raised enough so the suspension is topped out but the tires are touching. I use an under the frame stand, properly adjusted for height and a floor jack to raise the bike. 12.5 is the most common sweetspot, but difficult to acheive on the older bikes. Each bike is different but this is a goood place to shoot for. Most bikes are far from optimum in stock form even the modern ones. This is more of an issue with high powered bikes with lots of traction. your bike qualifies on both counts. One last comment, lowering the front of a bike reduces swing arm droop. This means lowering the front improves corner entry because of the reduction in rake and trail but hurts the ability to finish off the turn because the reduction in droop results in an unloading of the front under power. Steve
 
Thanks Steve for the Tech info.

I am running the largest cogs I can. 17t front 47t rear. Whith the new running gear the rake and trail on thiis old beast has been dramatically changed already.
Handling has dramatically improved over stock as it is but I will run your numbers.....It can never handle too good so optimizing is in the plan. I am still sorting out the tuning then I will move onto handling.

I agree the bandit arm is far more arm then stock but the frame on a whole is weaker than new bikes and many still run bracing. I have braced the frame too but would like to reduce flex as much as possible and since the arm is off and at the welder, it is only a few more bucks to get it done now and no down time.....So that is my theory on that.
 
suspension

suspension

Your very welcome Katman. Feel free to vary from my sugestions as they are more recomended starting points than one of the ten comandments, but I believe you will find them close and the results worth the effort. You have done an amazing job on that bike and have made an effort to cover all the bases. It gives one a real sense of accomplishment when you are able to make real improvements on a product that in its own right was quite a technilogical step forward. Im sure if you were to ride a stocker and your project back to back you would be speechless. Please keep us updated on how things work out. How is the weather up there these days?Went to a local bike hangout yesterday and there were about thirty bikes there. I left mine at home but hope to get a bike out next weekend, weather permiting. Steve
 
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