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cam chain noise?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gsridekc
  • Start date Start date
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gsridekc

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I've noticed some intermittent and highly annoying noises coming from the engine area of my 81 GS850. I've searched the site, and my manual, and found a lot of info about cam chain noises but none that would enable me to diagnose a faulty cam chain. The owner of a local shop heard my description of these noises and told me that it was probably just a stuck chain tensioner. The chain tensioner was stuck, but freeing it only temporarily alleviated the problem. My NOOB intuition tells me that the tensioner is sticking because it has reached the end of its travel (the outside spring is almost fully compressed when it automatically tensions itself back in place--whereupon it seems to stick a bit). My question: Is this a definite indicator that I have a worn out timing chain? Every time I try to repair this bike something else breaks, so I'd like to avoid fixing anything that isn't broken. Any ideas?
 
The manual calls for measuring 20 links (pin to pin). If over the specified amount, it is worn and needs replacement. I don't have my manual with me to give you the specifics, but maybe another GSer will.
 
I'd work on getting a new cam chain tensioner off ebay or as a temporary fix, you can "rewind" the spring a little tighter and see if that helps...

Just remove the end 12mm nutt, then take off the nurled knob and twist the spring 2-3 turns. Go from there.
 
What does cam chain noise sound like??? My 850 makes a ticking noise when it is loaded and under 4000 rpm. Over 4K noise is gone.
 
daverx1 said:
What does cam chain noise sound like??? My 850 makes a ticking noise when it is loaded and under 4000 rpm. Over 4K noise is gone.
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It sounds a little like popcorn popping... It usually goes away for a while if I reach down and slacken the adjuster knob. I also have a tapping/ticking noise which seems to go away after it warms up. The chain(?) noise gets worse when it warms up.
 
gsridekc said:
It sounds a little like popcorn popping... It usually goes away for a while if I reach down and slacken the adjuster knob. I also have a tapping/ticking noise which seems to go away after it warms up. The chain(?) noise gets worse when it warms up.
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I'd take a long screwdriver and put it on the tensioner and press my ear on it while the engine is running. That should tell you if the noise is coming from there. How many miles on the engine? You should never turn the knob counter-clockwise. If you do, the tensioner should be removed and reset. It's easy to pull the cam cover and take a look at the chain.
 
....I just thought of this. I've been getting about 30mpg. Related?

More Background:

Compression seems to be fair (around 130 +/_ 5 psi across the cylinders--dry)

Plugs are slightly sooty--could be from leaving the choke 1/4 on one day--I know:oops:

Starts right up

Valve clearances were fine 6 months ago (2 riding months ago).

I had the carbs rebuilt by a pro last year.

I left the tank full over the winter and added Sea Foam to stabilize.

Wheels turn freely.

Losing some voltage to the coils (I don't remember exactly how much) but the spark appears pretty good....
 
Jethro said:
I'd take a long screwdriver and put it on the tensioner and press my ear on it while the engine is running. That should tell you if the noise is coming from there. How many miles on the engine? You should never turn the knob counter-clockwise. If you do, the tensioner should be removed and reset. It's easy to pull the cam cover and take a look at the chain.
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Is that even when the engine isnt running! I hear on here somewhere to check your tensioner by turning the knob counter clockwise and letting it snap back.I do that and mine is fine,is that not right?
 
Jethro said:
I'd take a long screwdriver and put it on the tensioner and press my ear on it while the engine is running. That should tell you if the noise is coming from there. How many miles on the engine? You should never turn the knob counter-clockwise. If you do, the tensioner should be removed and reset. It's easy to pull the cam cover and take a look at the chain.
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I guess a tensioner rebuild IS in my future... I was told the bike had about 35k before I put another 5k on it.
 
Not sure a rebuild is going to get rid of the noise. Measure the chain per the manual - if it's stretched beyond spec the tensioner isn't going to be able to tighten it properly. Rebuilds are more for cleaning and new o-rings to stop leaks, not increase tension. If the chain is within spec, the automatic tensioner should work fine.

Another note - don't kill yourself trying to rid the bike of noises. I have a kind of clacking noise on my 850 that I have just learned to live with.

PS - my bike had 37000K and my chain was fine.
 
Run the motor at 3K rpm if it sounds OK Just ride it. AIr cooled motors are noisey
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Run the motor at 3K rpm if it sounds OK Just ride it. AIr cooled motors are noisey
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Correct. I was concerned about how poor my 81 1100E motor sounded (like a bucket of bolts). That was 30k miles ago. Do not obsess about noises or you can go crazy.

Your mileage seems poor however. Even my piped 1100E with jet kit and pods got at least 38mpg.

Is that even when the engine isnt running! I hear on here somewhere to check your tensioner by turning the knob counter clockwise and letting it snap back.I do that and mine is fine,is that not right?
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Do not turn the cam chain adjuster knob counter-clockwise at all- motor running or not. It is designed to be set and released once, and can malfunction if you move the knob. The tensioner should be removed, reset, then released, then the engine should be rotated by hand clockwise while you watch the knob pick up the slack. At that point the tensioner is set, and it will do it's job correctly only if left alone. The knob has a bearing on the bottom that slides along a ramp on the end of the tensioner plunger. If you back the knob off, the plunger can rotate and the bearing on the end of the knob may not line up flat on the ramp. Best case scenario is no problem, worst case is a weekend of replacing all your newly bent valves and scored valve guides.
 
Jethro said:
Correct. I was concerned about how poor my 81 1100E motor sounded (like a bucket of bolts). That was 30k miles ago. Do not obsess about noises or you can go crazy.

Your mileage seems poor however. Even my piped 1100E with jet kit and pods got at least 38mpg.



Do not turn the cam chain adjuster knob counter-clockwise at all- motor running or not. It is designed to be set and released once, and can malfunction if you move the knob. The tensioner should be removed, reset, then released, then the engine should be rotated by hand clockwise while you watch the knob pick up the slack. At that point the tensioner is set, and it will do it's job correctly only if left alone. The knob has a bearing on the bottom that slides along a ramp on the end of the tensioner plunger. If you back the knob off, the plunger can rotate and the bearing on the end of the knob may not line up flat on the ramp. Best case scenario is no problem, worst case is a weekend of replacing all your newly bent valves and scored valve guides.
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Thanks for the wisdom! I'll reset the tensioner and keep my fingers crossed!
 
gsridekc said:
I guess a tensioner rebuild IS in my future... I was told the bike had about 35k before I put another 5k on it.
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They are noisey at idle but you get use to it.I pay more attention to the performance than anything.What bike is it anyway!
 
tconroy said:
They are noisey at idle but you get use to it.I pay more attention to the performance than anything.What bike is it anyway!
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~600 lbs of 1981 GS850G

Too bad there aren't more KC GSer's....
 
gsridekc said:
~600 lbs of 1981 GS850G

Too bad there aren't more KC GSer's....
Click to expand...
I bought my bike for the gas mileage and apperance but I would like to go bigger if i could find a nice one close,there just arent any.
 
Hot stripped tensioner pics in case you haven't seen these yet:
http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html


These are definitely noisy engines -- once you hear a few other GSs run, you kind of relax about it. With that said, you can reduce a lot of the clanking at idle and low speed by synchronizing the carbs.

My 850 seems to make less noise when I use a good synthetic or semi-synthetic (Golden Spectro) 20W-50 oil. YMMV.
 
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