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Cam Chain Tension

  • Thread starter Thread starter Waymore
  • Start date Start date
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Waymore

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After searching for how to set the cam chain tension I am still a little confused as to how this is done. I have not got my manual yet and had to remove the carbs for cleaning so it looks easier to adjust it now with no carbs in the way. Could someone please post a step by step or pics on how to do this. thanks
 
You only need to mess with the cam chain tensioner if you remove it. Otherwise, it's automatic and you shouldn't mess with it. Even though there's a big pretty knurled knob just begging to be twisted, don't mess with it.

If you decide to remove it in order to put in new seals, here are the instructions:
http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html
The part numbers shown are for a GS850, but the principles of operation are the same for all GS models.
 
bwringer said:
You only need to mess with the cam chain tensioner if you remove it. Otherwise, it's automatic and you shouldn't mess with it. Even though there's a big pretty knurled knob just begging to be twisted, don't mess with it.

If you decide to remove it in order to put in new seals, here are the instructions:
http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html
The part numbers shown are for a GS850, but the principles of operation are the same for all GS models.
Click to expand...
I have an 81 550T with the same symptoms. If adjusting is taboo, does that mean that the noise is normal? I've always thought that engine knocking, banging, clanking = problem. Although it's been doing it for years and there have been no obvious effects.
 
sounds crazy

sounds crazy

Since I posted the last time regarding the cam noise I have done some other, unrelated, repairs to my 81 550T. In the past, I noticed that I had that cam knocking noise when at idle. While working on other engine problems, I found out that the spark plug caps had very high resistance or no continuity at all. I also found that my fuel valve had a leak in the diaphram causing the #2 plug to foul. Don't know how long or to what degree these problems have existed. But I know that the cam chain knock wasn't present when the bike was new or for several years after that.

I replaced the spark plug caps with aftermarket NGK's. That gave me good spark at all four cylinders. I got a new fuel valve from Bike Bandit and solved the fouling of the #2 plug. I adjusted the carb idle screws and got the bike running pretty well. The interesting thing is that now there is almost no cam chain noise. It idles smoothly at about 1200 RPM. Could it be that randomly misfiring cylinders could have caused the engine to run in such a way that it made the cam chain slap around inside making the characteristic noise?

I hope tht this is the case. It's nice to be stopped at a red light without the annoying clacking that I used to have.
 
Have you ever synched a set of carbs on a poorly synched bike? It goes from sounding like a bag of marbles to music to your ears. When the crank is getting even power out of all 4 cyls it makes a huge difference.
 
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