Cam Chain Tensioner Question

[Guest]

Ok, so I have a cam chain tensioner question. I have started having an issue with top end noise that just started after I adjusted the valves. This is my 82 GS750E. I've had it for a few years now and never had a problem before. So I took off the valve cover and noticed some slack in the cam chain. No damage done to the valve cover so I think my cam chain is just a bit loose and making the noise. It's like a rattle sound. I know the valves are set right and my carbs are good.

I took off the cam chain tensioner and after reading several posts here at GSR, think I need to rebuild it .. BUT.... before I do, let me ask this first. Should the push rod not only push out toward the cam chain but also push back in freely? As I understand it, while the engine is under running conditions, the push rod moves in and out depending on the load put on it... is this right?

I ask this because when I turn the knurled knob counter clockwise while pushing the push rod in as far as it will go (like I'm going to install it) and let go, the push rod goes out like it should. But if I try to push the push rod back in, it won't budge. Shouldn't I be able to push it back in and see some movement of the knurled knob? Or should I just be looking for smooth motion toward the cam chain?

The knurled knob turns counter clockwise only about 3/4's of a turn. I hope my question is clear enough to understand.

 

[chuck hahn]

It does go in and out when the engine runs. But remember its real heavy spring and your not just gonna push it in with a finger. loosen the adjuster rod lock nut and loosen the rod ( with the screwdriver slot in it ). Lean on the housing with the rod against a table top and simultaneously screw the rod in to trap the tensioner. Lock down the jam nut. Your tensioner rod should now be detracted and held in place. Use this position for reinstallation once you rebuild it.

Insert it in the engine and slowly turn the adjuster rod out and the tensioner rod will extend. To set the adjuster rod, you turn it in ill it toucesd the tensioner then go out 1/4 turn and lock down the jam nut.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking it might be too hard for me to push in against the spring.

I was hoping to find some way to double check it before I reinstall it on my bike, being that it's a real pain since the carbs are still on the bike. And I'd hate to put it back on the bike just to find out later that it needs to be rebuilt after all.

Thanks

 

[Steve]

The action of the push rod is one way only. It will go OUT freely, but not IN, unless you rotate the knob.

The big question is whether it was installed correctly. Too many times, the guy who installs it will read most of the directions, but not all, ending up with a loose chain.

With the tensioner in-hand, ready to install:
1. Ensure the mounting surface is clean and has a good gasket.
2. While holding the plunger (push rod), loosen the locknut and set screw.
3. Push in on the plunger, while rotating the large knob.
4. While holding the plunger fully IN, turn set screw to lock in place.
5. Install tensioner to cylinder block, torque mounting screws.
6. Loosen set screw, you should hear plunger move a bit.
7. Turn set screw IN until it stops, then back out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, lock in place with locknut.
8. Turn crank to take up slack. You might see large knob move a bit when you do this.

The part of the directions that are often ignored are the bold part of #7. If you turn the set screw IN and lock it there, it can not take up slack and do its job. You need to back off NO MORE than 1/2 turn so it can move and take up slack as necessary.

.

 

[Runeight]

Yup, and when pushing the rod in watch squirting oil. Don’t ask me how I know.

 

[Guest]

Ok, great! Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I'm good to go now and I will follow all the directions.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[duaneage]

Replace the seal on the right side and o ring on the left. They leak all the time and are cheap.

 

[dorkburger]

Interesting about Steve?s notes. My 1150 FSM says nothing about turning the set screw to release the push rod. Heck, it doesn?t even mention reinstalling it. And no pages are missing.

Thanks Steve.

 

[Steve]

Interesting about Steve’s notes. My 1150 FSM says nothing about turning the set screw to release the push rod. Heck, it doesn’t even mention reinstalling it. And no pages are missing.

Thanks Steve.

I just looked at the copy that I have saved from BassCliff's site. It is for the US model GS1100, which is the Canadian GSX1150. You are correct. Page 3-34 ends a wonderful section that shows how to completely disassemble and reassemble the tensioner unit. The last two instructions are:
- While turning lock shaft handle counterclockwise, push in the pushrod all the way. Keep on turning the handle until it refuses to turn further.
- Tighten the lock screw to lock the pushrod, so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Page 3-35 then continues with how to measure the 20-pin length on the cam chain.

It also continues with DIS-assembly of the engine, so I continued flipping pages to the RE-assembly section. At the bottom of page 3-67, it repeats the instructions found on 3-34, then continues on 3-68 with actually mounting the tensioner to the cylinder block and the proper method of initial tensioning. It also has an interesting method of turning the crank in reverse first, THEN turning it forward to make sure you see the tensioner knob moving.

Being the typical service manual, it only tells you WHAT to do, it does not necessarily tell you WHY.

.

 

[dorkburger]

Right. I noticed that about an hour later. I'm all sorted. Thanks again.