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Cam tensioner slider replacement question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dusty
  • Start date Start date
D

Dusty

Guest
Hi all,

Id appreciate any advice from those who have worked on the cam chain guides.

My poor old girl (GS1100E) has some noise related to the cam chain. The chain itself looks tight and is well within spec in terms of stretch. The tensioner mechanism is in good condition but is now fully wound in. I believe the plastic/teflon? guide that the automatic tensioner pushes the chain with is warn and needs replacing. Well that's my guess anyway.

Has anyone replaced one of those before? Looks like a major job but Im just hoping it may be possible without removing the engine.

Cheers
Dusty
 
Have you removed the tensioner to make sure it's working properly? Plus how are you sure that it's fully wound in?

The rear guide needs a top end removal (head and cylinders) to replace. No need to take the engine out for that but I wouldn't assume that you need to head down this route until you have eliminated other potential causes of the noise.
 
Thanks hampshirehog,

Yup I did remove the tensonier, thats how I know its fully in at the moment.

And yes, good idea to eliminate all other possibilities first.

Guess I could start with a new or 1 link shorter chain?
 
Dusty said:
Thanks hampshirehog,

Yup I did remove the tensonier, thats how I know its fully in at the moment.

And yes, good idea to eliminate all other possibilities first.

Guess I could start with a new or 1 link shorter chain?
Click to expand...

No such thing as a 1 link shorter chain when its a cam chain. You have to get the right one and places should sell you a good DID cam chain to suit. EXACTLY the same as what a Suzuki shop will sell you.
 
The rod parts come in different lengths and tapers.
I could take some pictures later today and offer which models I got the parts from.
I mixed them up on one of my oldest builds and it works to this day.
You could try the longest combination and gain about 1/8".

Daniel
 
Did you tighten the sets screw against the shaft before removing the tensioner? If not it will slide out to full extension when removing.
 
Thanks Flatline, yup Im cool with how the locking screw works.

Extending the length of the rod is an interesting idea Daniel. This would give me some more adjustment, but wouldn't fix the guide if it is warn.

The bike has done ~110,000 k/m and has not been rebuilt yet. But it doesn't burn oil and has good compression etc so I wouldn't open it up if I dont need to. I wonder what the service life is of the cam guide?

Next step perhaps is to record an audio of the sound it is making and perhaps someone with more experience will recoganise it?
 
You can replace the front cam chain guide just by removing the cams. To remove the rear one you have to remove the head and cylinders.
 
I've seen these rear guides worn out and falling apart in chunks, so it might be happening here.

This is a bit of work, but perhaps you could pull the oil pan and see if there are any black plastic bits in there. If so, then your mission is clear.
 
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