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Can I switch from Synthetic to Blended on my new motor?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Brando
  • Start date Start date
B

Brando

Guest
I have only 5,000 on my rebuilt motor (Wisco 1166 kit). I was running Mobil 1 but I've noticed the clutch is starting to slip above 9K. Is it too late to switch to a blend or do I have to replace the clutch plates and then switch? I'm putting on an external oil cooler so I don't think the synthetic is really necessary especiallly if it's going to cause my clutch to slip.
 
Silly question, but when you rebuilt the engine, did you replace the clutch disks and springs?

Mobil 1 by itself should not cause slippage, unless they have a new formula that is wearing the "Energy Conserving" label in the API starburst.

I used to use Mobil 1 until my local Wal-Mart stopped carrying it in the gallon size. I now use Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 with no problems.


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I agree with Steve. Synthetic is not more slippery, it just lasts longer and holds up to heat better.

I'm also using Rotella synthetic in my 550's, no issue with clutch slippage...but then with only 49 hp on tap, that is not likely to be an issue anyway.:oops:
 
No....I didn't touch the clutch plates. And ... with all that added "wheelie popping" power it could be that the plates just need replacing. Worth a shot if the job of replacing them is not too difficult...never did it before.
 
The job is not hard at all, and chances are that the plates are just fine. More likely that the springs are worn out. Just order a set of springs and a gasket, the total will be $40 or so. Put the bike on the side stand, remove the clutch cable, then the cover. Loosen all six retainer bolts before removing any one of them completely, then remove them. Measure the free length of the springs, you will probably find them a bit short. Go ahead and take a look at the disks, and even measure them, if you wish, but they will probably be fine. If you do feel you need new disks, you probably only need the fiber ones, not the steel ones, too. If you do install new fiber disks, I have heard recommendations to soak them in oil first, but have never had to do that myself. Install the cover, paying attention to correct orientation of the clutch release lever. Install and adjust the cable, start bike, ride, enjoy.

If you are really slow and meticulous about it, the job might take an hour. By putting the bike on the side stand, oil loss might be as much as 6 or 7 drops when you remove the cover, so have a rag handy. 8-[


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With the extra HP, the heavy duty aftermarket springs would probably be a good idea, the harder lever pull may be a little aggrivating in traffic, but probably worth it. Also, if you roll the bikes tires up on a 2X6 or 2X8, then layt the bike over on the side stand, you will drip a little less oil when you remove the clutch cover. In. lb. torque wrench for the clutch spring bolts, they are long & small & can break before you would think they will.
 
If you are just replacing the clutch springs then i would recommend that you take the steel disks out and if you have access to a sandblaster, blast them to rough them up a little. If not just use some sandpaper to break the glaze off of them. Just be sure to remove all the grit/sand before re-installing.
 
I think Mobil 1 was changed and not for the bike better. I lost a clutch to it last year and switched to Rotella synthetic. Their new formula was sp\uper syn or something like that.
 
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